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Member Since: Jul 6, 2004
Last Visit: Mar 12, 2014
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Total Points: 96
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (701) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (21) | Posts (3) | Stars (477) | Ratings (192)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Nervous Tic

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (6)

Sport, 2 pitches, 160'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Tick Rock

Aug 30, 2010

Ixodes

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b (4)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Tick Rock

Aug 30, 2010

Green Flash (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Tick Rock

Aug 30, 2010

Tick Fever (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Tick Rock

Aug 30, 2010

Arachnophobia (FA)

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c (6)

Sport, 1 pitch, 105'

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Tick Rock

May 30, 2010

Love at First Sight (FA)

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R (1)

Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Hallett Peak

Aug 30, 2008

Ms. Fanny Le Pump

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a (5)

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock

Apr 5, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Love at First Sight goes up the center of the triangular buttress to the left of the Love Route's initial dihedrals.  It connects to the Love Route at the base of the right curving dihedral (Englishman's Route on the upper face.

Love at First Sight goes up the center of the triangular buttress to the left of the Love Route's initial dihedrals. It connects to the Love Route at the base of the right curving dihedral (Englishma

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Love at First Sight (5.10b R)

Aug 30, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Proud Mary (5.12c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Did the first two pitches today linking the first 1 1/2 to the top of the pillar so that the belayer could see the leader on the rib. I don't think I'd want to be doing those very delicate clips with the belayer blind below the overhang and a fall potentially landing on the pillar. Managed to OS these pitches. The third was in the shade and too cold to try by the time we got there.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: Have done this route several times now and think that combining P1 of Maternal Damnation with the first pitch proper of Broadmoor gives one of the best pitches in the area. Have also combined pitches 3, 4, and 5 with a 70m rope (using every foot of rope). Great route!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: Great climbing and certainly more of an adventure than most routes at MB! It will get better and better with time as some of the loose stuff gets cleaned off. Four stars if it wasn't for the loose rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area
By: Ken Duncan When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: I assume two dihedrals.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Outlander (5.10c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: I believe Malcolm Daly did the FA.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Definitely a route I'll come back to again and again. The second pitch is my favorite at MB. Too bad there are all the poorly patched bolt holes.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : Sympathy for the Devil (5.12a)
By: Ken Duncan When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Great moves over the overhang and the face above is outstanding! Combined with the first two pitches of Devil's Backbone it probably deserves four stars. Definitely a better finish than the sharp crimps on the third pitch of Devil's Backbone.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Tick Rock : Arachnophobia (5.4)
By: Ken Duncan When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: I think you are probably right on the rating.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Ken Duncan When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Amen, Malcolm and Bob. Adding anchors in the middle of a classic long standing pitch does not fit in Vedauwoo. Doing the first "two" pitches as one with properly placed gear is not a problem as far as rope drag goes.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: Ken Duncan When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: I lead this with Mark Wilford in 1976. Of course Bob Scarpelli could have done it earlier. At the time we rated it 5.10a but that was back in the day when we were doing lots of wide cracks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: An even better finish is to avoid going left at the top of the last pitch instead turn the small roof and head up and right in a small dihedral. As far as I know, this was first done by Malcolm Daly in the '80s.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Steep Triangular Face : Friday the 14th (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: Seemed mighty hard for 11b/c.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - left buttress : The Beak (5.11a)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Seemed a bit harder than the other 5.11a routes at MB, but it was running water in the middle third of the crack. Still managed an onsight though.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love at First Sight (5.10b R)
By: Ken Duncan When: Sep 4, 2008

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Comments: Just talked to Topher and he did guide a client up this and the left-facing dihedral above calling it Bold is Love.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : Holier Than Thou (5.11c)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 8, 2007

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Comments: Great route climbing what appears to be a candle wax covered wall. First pitch keeps your attention. Second pitch is somewhat contrived but still excellent climbing. Third pitch OK. Highly recommended.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Sacred Ground (5.12b)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 8, 2007

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Comments: The best route in Castle Valley. Excellent first pitch - 11d and incredible last pitch. Definately a route to shoot for.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Infrared (5.12-)
By: Ken Duncan When: Apr 8, 2007

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Comments: Awesome route. The last pitch is one of the most spectacular in the desert. 11a, 10+, 10+, 11c.


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