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Member Since: Jun 30, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 2, 2014
Contact Kelsey Sheely


Point Rank: # 11,340
Total Points: 16
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kelsey Sheely been climbing?










Contributions


All 80 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 3 | Stars 39 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Low Spark (5.11 PG13)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch of this climb was awesome! Definitely don't follow the book's recommendation on pieces. I took 1 (0.5), 4 (0.75s), 3 (1s), 3 (2s), 2 (3s), and 1 (4). The only piece I didn't use was the 4. I thought the bulge and the tight section about 20 ft below the bulge were the hardest parts.

I didn't place anything in the upper flake section because it was rather suspect. I felt better just getting to the top as fast as possible.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : The Hawk (5.11)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I am assuming this climb is the same as what was added as jump start. The description in the book doesn't seem quite right, but there is no other climb in the area that matches that description. This was one of my favorite climbs I've done at the Creek. It has some really fun moves at the bottom, some good rests and a fun ring lock or lay back sprint to the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Third World Lover (5.10)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Bloom says the right crack is 11-, but I definitely thought it as hard or harder than Way Rambo and Annunaki. 11+ for sure. Both climbs are awesome.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Awesome climb! Perfect for building confidence on sustained terrain.

There is a beautiful looking long corner to splitter between here and Ed's World. I couldn't tell if there were anchors at the top. Has anyone climbed up there?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Divide and Conquer (5.10)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Roof is fun! Wide section is brutal, especially if you don't layback it. It's too wide for #4s at the crux.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Chicken Wings (5.10+)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: if you don't use the chimney, .10+ might be accurate.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Blood Sausage (5.12-)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great climb! I thought is was easier than Fire Roasted Starfish, but my fingers are on the small size.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Chicken Nugget (5.10+)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great climb! Wish it was longer.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Chicken Fingers (5.12- PG13)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: It is confirmed that the pro in the bottom section is a bit sketch. Black alien popped out as Philly, the belayer, was lowering himself down off the boulder -- he almost took Ritchie with him as he fell. Luckily no one got hurt. Ritchie, knowing he couldn't fall safely, proceeded to send the route. Good work buddy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Fire Roasted Starfish (5.11+)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: After doing this and Blood Sausage on top rope, I have to say that this one seemed much harder for my smaller hands.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Northern San Juans : Lizard Head : Southwest Chimney (5.8 R)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: I don't recommend doing this in the winter unless you enjoy needless suffering. After 4 hours of skinning and endless postholing, we finally got to the base and put on our rock shoes for a few short pitches. I didn't think the rock was nearly as sketchy as I had been led to believe. The view from the top, however, was quite something.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, but I probably won't do it again. The chimney was quite a challenge to get into and helped to solidify my opinion of chimneys being heinous and obnoxious more than fun. The traverse on the 3rd pitch I thought was 10+ or I'm just getting weak over the winter. The 4th pitch was the funnest with a heady runout at the end. I definitely couldn't finish the boulder problem at the top either. If it weren't easy to aid up with the bolt right there, that single move would make this climb ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Campground Route (5.8 A3)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: We didn't see any one "prominent" line when we headed up to the base. I think we could have taken at least 3 or 4 different routes to the notch. After some deliberation we decided on one that seemed to have a few pin scars and seemed like the most promising. If we had more #3 nuts, it seems the route we chose would have been much more secure. As it was, I think A3 is about right. It also seemed to me that it could definitely be free climbed by someone a bit more skilled than myself. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Right Arm (5.10d)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: This route is definitely a little sandbagged, and that's not just because it stole my gold link cam. Awkward thin hands throughout, that is when it's not ring locks or offwidth. Bloom's suggestions are a little off for protection. In camalot sizes, I'd suggest 1-2 .5s, 3-5 .75s, 6-8 1s, 2-3 2s, 1-2 3s, 1-2 3.5s or 4s.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Unnamed, Jr. (5.9)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this route is the first pitch of the Crowning, and although it's fun and shady climb. It's soft, even for a 5.9


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : The Guardian : Weather Window Waltz (The G... (5.9)
By: Kelsey Sheely When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Make sure to get up and climbing early, 'cause the walk around from the South side is a long one!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Grivel Horn on Black Diamond ShrikesClimbing Gear DiscussionKelsey SheelyMar 11, 2014
re: Grivel Horn on Black Diamond ShrikesClimbing Gear DiscussionKelsey SheelyJan 5, 2013
Grivel Horn on Black Diamond ShrikesClimbing Gear DiscussionKelsey SheelyDec 30, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Cave Route 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Unnamed 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Dark Shadows 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Fuzz 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Chasing Shadows 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Pente 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall

The Monk 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Tofu Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : 2nd Meat Wall

Top Sirloin 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : 2nd Meat Wall

Bunny Slope 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Critic's Choice

Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall

The Mystery Machine 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

The Hawk 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall

Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

Cockometer 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Slings and Arrows 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall

Rochambeau 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Guardian

Railroad Tracks 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Third World Lover 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Fin Wall

Davidson Dihedral 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall

Chicken Wings 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : 1st Meat Wall

Blood Sausage 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : 1st Meat Wall

Unnamed, Jr. 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Technicolor Wall

Right Arm 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Original Meat Wall

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