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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Dark Angel : West Face (5.11)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: for the second pitch there's a key sidepull way out left. fun climbing and a incredible approach. climb this tower
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Dana's Arch Area : Golden Road (5.11+)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux of P1 was around the second bolt, it's a long way in between the good jams in pinscars and the feet are non existent. A good one to do if you're up there.
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Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the owner doesn't like dogs, leave yours at home if you want to continue to climb here.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress : Skyline Arete (5.6)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: chimney pitch was cool, everything else was pretty mediocre. If I did it again I'd leave the rope at home.
EDIT: drove up the canyon today in between classes partnerless and soloed it twice. way more fun than with the rope, 2nd go took a leisurely 20 minutes. highly recommend going up it alone on a weekday, didn't see anyone.
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Location: MT : Bozeman Pass : Frat Boy Wall
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thought this was the Frat Boy wall...
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : BLM-6 (5.10d)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't wait to get back to washington to do this again. One of the best routes of the grade anywhere.
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Location: MT : Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall : The Fat One (WI3)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a 80 will reach the ground in one rap from the top tree.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : The West Face (5.11-)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: with a 70 you can make it to the top from the stance above the 10d crux pitch. fantastic route.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Silver Star and connected s... : Chianti Spire : East Face / Rebel Yell (5.10)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: you probably want crampons to go along with the ice ax. that snow pitch off the col is pretty damn steep.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Inner Walls : Notch, cave side (SW) : The Route of All Evil or F.... (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Jul 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hahahaha!!! what the hell happened to you on CC?
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Aborigine (5.11b)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Aug 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: blow it going for the final jug on this one at the end of a hot and humid day, the subsequent 30 footer you'll take will get you going for the hike out.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : The Country Area : The Country : GM Route (5.9)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Jun 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: looked at this today, the sloping ledge 30 feet above sharp flakes scared us off. is there a easier way to get up? also, how many people solo the 5.10 direct start? getting into the route looked super sketch
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Backbone Ridge (5.9)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: May 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: how scary is the offwidth without a #5? is it secure enough to (basically) rope solo? I don't climb many offwidths but I'm trying to get my skills up. I don't want to spend a ton of money on a piece of gear I'll only use once.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Muscle Beach : Annies Climax (5.10d)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: May 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's a DWS. I'm not familiar with DWS ratings but wanted to make it clear to any DWS hopefulls that it's not a good place to "try it out" I'll remove it if it really matters. for what it's worth I think it's a fantastic route with big air, if your up for it go for the solo! it'd be a proud accomplishment. I want to get it wired before I give it a go sans rope.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : East Face (5.6 C2)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alan, you da man!!!!
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Lower Castle Rock : The Bone (5.9)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I backed off this, there's not much pro for the roof pull, gonna nut up and do it next time!
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : West Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Mar 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's the way I went (the chimney) one move of 5.7 protected by a #1 camalot, fixed gear (2 or so welded cams) lower down on the route.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades : ... : Photo
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Mar 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: is that Bear?
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Location: Bawls E. Climber : stuff : Photo
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: is that your train carpet and marble track too?
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Godzilla (5.9) : Photo
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: are you sure that's 10a? the feet are good and you can muscle through it without much problems, staying right around that flake seems like it would be more strenuous and insecure. the crux (I think) is the crack 20+ feet above this, there you have to jam deep in the crack for 10 feet or so to a set of good jugs. thoughts?
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Location: WA : Exit 38/ Far Side : Gun Show : Endless Bliss (5.9)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: too many bolts.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k... (5.7)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's too short!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Power Lust (5.11-)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: super fun, excellent "intro to Tuolumne" route, you can belay right out of your car if you want to! lieback is fun, slotting nuts in blindly every 10 feet, and pitch 3 has fun 20+ foot runouts on easy granite slab, don't miss it.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Clem's Holler Area : Special Spot : The Javelin (5.10-)
By: Keenan Waeschle When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: sketched myself out on the upper lieback, next time I'll bring a number 4 C4 and walk it up, the 3 that I had was totally tipped out. route's frickin awesome.
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