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East Draw Traverse


Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 976
Total Points: 730
Last Year: 146
Last 30 Days: 8
57 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2167 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 270 | Posts 1468 | Stars 194 | Ratings 150
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: KCP When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Odd that The Nose is a free climb with several free ascents and is listed here as an aid route. Out of respect for Lynn's enormous effort to free the route, and also for those who have freed it since, The Nose should be recorded here as what it is (5.14a). It is no longer an aid route, regardless of how many people pull on the gear to get up it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice upgrade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Is this near the side rail on the first pitch?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: I'm not as strong as when I did these routes, although Sinopia feels right up there with The Beast, Captain Crunch, Terminal, and a few other consensus 13a pitches. It feels harder than Nevermore and The Monument. 12c is silly. Lucid Dreaming is 12c, and Sinopia is significantly harder. Regardless, it's worth the hike up there.


Location: KCP : Home Board 2015 : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: youtu.be/b4filtLNSnY


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: KCP When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I don't doubt you, Greg, although I flash consensus V5-6 pretty consistently, and this felt nowhere near that easy. I must have missed some key beta. It is pretty easy all the way to what felt like two burly moves on a micro-crimp, a nothing-sloper, and crap for feet, and then it eases way up on the top-out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: KCP When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Classic problem. Maybe something broke, because this is not V6. More like solid V7. The crux feels harder than Valhalla and Girlfriend's Backside, unless I'm missing something.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: KCP When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wingless Victory (5.13a/b R)
By: KCP When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what shape the bolts are in?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.



Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: An easy fix is to use long draws, which would hang below the actual Mussy Hooks, et al.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: The other two pics have the Mussys, This one is meant to show the simplicity of going from tr to rap. I'll take redundancy any day. Stuff fails. It's the nature of the beast.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: KCP When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: The anchors need an upgrade. I'd do it, but I don't own a drill.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: KCP When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: I one-hung this route too many times before redpointing it, years ago, because I did not like the idea of whipping on those old bolts. I recently took a friend to it, and the new bolts inspire a lot more confidence. Thanks for the upgrade on my all-time favorite sport route.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: If you all are referring to the clip in the middle of the headwall, it's dead easy from the good crimp out left near the arete. No reason to clip it from the bad slot in the crack. 11c/d hanging the draws. 11b/c with them already hung. Interesting movement the entire way. Bullet the Brown Cloud is less sustained, although the crux move is much harder at about 11+. 11a/b for BTBC is way off the mark.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Bullet The Brown Cloud (5.11b/c)
By: KCP When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Grade-inconsistency is definitely a thing at Table. Fwiw, I opted for going left to the rail, instead of staying on the arete. The latter felt contrived. I missed no holds and found this pitch solid at about 11d. Interesting boulder problem crux.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Volobee (aka Jolobee) (5.11a/b PG13)
By: KCP When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Fun pitch, although nowhere near 5.11. More like low-end 5.10. The ratings at this crag are all over the place.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Chicken Dance (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Using the stems down low felt more natural than the contrived path suggested here. Climbing this pitch using everything within easy reach weighs in at about 11a/b, imo. I'd give it 3 stars, on gear, using the dihedral.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I remember this being a very fun route. It felt like 12a, although easier than Gym Arete, which might be a sandbag for the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Not going to mince words in saying that I oppose permadraws on a route like LD. Hanging draws on this rig is a breeze. I've done it several times. Moreover, having permadraws prohibits the ability of hanging draws for a traditional onsight, which still matters to some climbers. Convenience draws are best suited for gyms and steep, dry, cave-routes which are otherwise a major undertaking to equip. I own expensive Petzl Spirits for a reason, and I don't want to be forced into using permadraws beca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: I wonder if this is the route that I've been warming up on for Sinopia. It's about ten feet to the left of Golden Rose.


Location: Sport Climbing : The 10 Essentials of Sport ...
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The Gri Gri is the vetted and preferred device for sport climbing, for obvious reasons to any seasoned sport-belayer. That said, never release the brake-end of the rope without first cinching it off with a Mule Knot. Any sudden shift in body-position can release enough pressure from the Gri Gri's cam to allow slippage, potentially dropping the climber onto a ledge or the ground. No bueno.

The beauty of the Gri Gri is in that the cam takes the weight off of the belayer's arm, allowing climbers t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good, and several of the holds, which keep this pitch at the lower end of 5.11, are hard to see. Much harder to onsight than redpoint.

The only reachy clip for me at 6' tall is #4 which isn't reachy at all if you climb onto the smaller holds out right to clip it. The route wanders among hidden holds, so stay relaxed, look around, and know that there is always a good hold where you need it. The final headwall above ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


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