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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,031
Total Points: 566
Last Year: 200
Last 30 Days: 1
36 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (2017) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (53) | Comments (231) | Posts (1457) | Stars (153) | Ratings (116)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Turning Point (V9)
By: KCP When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Interesting problem. Not a classic, IMO, although definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.

The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turn... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Photo
By: KCP When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Dave!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: I do it that way. That sidepull is a jug.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : ... : Pig Dog (V6)
By: KCP When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Sweet problem!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: "What's with all the slash grades? They make something that is already highly arbitrary even more meaningless. Take the lower grade and move on."

Well said, Blake. Most intelligent grading solution I've ever read on MP.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : East Draw : ... : Traverse (V6)
By: KCP When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Sent it this afternoon. Fun problem in a great location. Need to go back and link it into the V5 on the left end of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Paris Girl (5.13a R)
By: KCP When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone have links to video and/or photo-beta for the crux section of PG? The only sequence that we found yesterday seemed pretty hard for 13a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: KCP When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Interesting, tenuous movement except for the contrived finish. You can easily reach out left to a jug, which makes the finish a relatively easy step-up. If you can reach a hold, it's in, imo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to beli... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Granted, it's a tenuous move, although it's not the heinous sloper pullup that some here are claiming. There are key feet, albeit small, on the lip, which make the crux a static move if done precisely.

I redpointed this route in '93, after a falling twice at the crux on my first and second go. As soon as I ticked the tiny footholds, I sent it next try. It would be a worthy onsight for many strong climbers. It's solid at a/b, and if Downpressor Man, which is very similar in stature, is consider... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Red Badger (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a minute or so. It's worth doing at least once.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : The Bleeding (5.14b)
By: KCP When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot, Ben!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: KCP When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: I haven't done this route, although, by Wayne's description of the difficulty directly above the final bolt and beyond that, it sounds like perfectly acceptable, Eldo style.

Captain Crunch comes to mind. You do the crux, clip the last bolt to protect an easy 5.11 move that gets you established on the upper slab, and then run it out on moderate 5.10 climbing to the anchors.It would be a sporty yet safe fall, and it's highly unlike that you'll fall off of those moves after having climbed through... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Looks like it might still hold a fall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Nice send, Bob. Great historical photos.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R)
By: KCP When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R) : Photo
By: KCP When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Got on this, today. It's not that steep. It's under vertical for the first half and then possibly a few degrees over vertical on the upper headwall. Great movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Nick, This thing is way harder than 10a right off the deck. From the last bolt to the anchors is solid 10a, moving left and then back right. Don't blow any of the clips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Is that Fred Knapp?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall
By: KCP When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Peter makes a good point about the tunnel, and it is an easy fix. There is no need to use tunnel 6. There is a well-groomed path that walks right over it. The consequences of taking the tunnel route, if you aren't very careful and have a low-profile pack, could be deadly, and it's illegal. Just don't do it. Getting your pack snagged on a passing train and being dragged like a rag doll won't do the climbing community any favors. I've been stuck in that tunnel twice with a train, and it's not fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff
By: KCP When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Came across this cliff by accident, today. Really fun routes and perfectly bolted. Props to the route developer for doing this cliff justice.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice send, Cody! One of my favorite pitches in Eldo.


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