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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Spectator Wall
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FAs on Spectator Wall came before Beverly's climbs in the area. Tom Wezwick and others put up all the routes.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highway to Hell had slings on the anchor bolts. We replaced these with chain later. The Old Sling Route uphill was named for a single sling in the crack. We wanted Bradshaw's guide to name the trad route right of Roid Boys.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (11.2) Old Sling Straighten... (5.10-)
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Old Sling Name was first used (something for the guidebook published electronically by Bradshaw) for the short flake crack to the right of the bolted Roid Boys. The Old Sling Straightened is a separate climb uphill from the named route.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (11.3) The Trough (5.7)
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom Wezwick and I put up this route so that Protein Supplement and Sunbaked could be put in. The climb indeed goes up the "trough" but cuts right and goes to a separate anchor slightly uphill from the mentioned climbs. There is loose rock on the route but in no way does the route go anywhere close to the death blocks.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Left End : (09.1) The Diablo Cruiser (5.7)
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Difficult to say who did the FA of cracks in this area. We cleaned and led several cracks in the area including what is now the bottom of Humbolt prior to its bolting.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The...
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Generally two groups developed climbs at Diablo in the 1990s. This explains the double naming pattern. The person who publishes first seems to establish the name.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Styx
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Newell et. al. placed none of the anchors in the area. Beverly named four of the routes with the guidebook because they needed a name.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : East Slabs : The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dih... (5.8 R)
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the better routes on the East Slabs. A better variation is to climb the first two pitches of Ape Crack (5.8, start below and to the right) rather than the first pitch of Great Bowl. Is there another bolt at the top of I's Dihedral (there once were only two old 1/4" bolts)? I believe that I first led the left side of I's Dihedral with Adolph Maher?, a visiting math prof, in probably 1978. I remember virtually no protection.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : East Slabs : La Mancha (5.7 X)
By: Karl Kiser When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is left and up from Misty. Edmund Ward and I put in this route in about 1976-77. As I recall, we traded leads and each of us had an old Rawl bolt kit. This way each of us put in a bolt at the anchor at different times. The variation to the right, 5.10-?, was first led by Mike Head and followed by me. It goes up the steep headwall to the right of the belay at the top of the second pitch and is more easily done with a heel hook. Aaron, you are correct about the lack of protection ... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: Karl Kiser When: Jan 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sunny arete on North Rabit Ear has been climbed in the 1970s by Paul and Lou Horak (Hand Jive 5.8+)
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Location: cuclimbing : climbing : Photo
By: Karl Kiser When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A more accurate name for the area would be The Pocket. The first named climb on the left Wall is "In The Pocket" (5.8 or 5.9 variation). Kelly bolted some good climbs in the area but did not establish the area. In fact the easier climb in the center which exits the roof on the left was originally a TR named "Thin Red Line".
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : East Slabs
By: Karl Kiser When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aaron, thanks for introducing the East Slabs. Most of these routes were put up prior to EBs. The result is more difficult climbing although the routes are moderate.
I want to emphasize that most of the 1/4" bolts (about 35 years old) have not been replaced. I would take a hand drill and a few replacement bolts for especially the anchors. I have been told that Misty has been retro bolted with no additional bolts.
A favorite mix of several routes, about 5.8, is: the two pitches of Ape crack... more >>
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Pocket Change Wall
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are additional routes to the right of Payday. They follow from left to right:
Vegetable Massacre 5.11- (variation start to Payday; sport)
Rebate 5.10 (sport, start from lower ledge, joins Payday at the top)
Gold Rush 5.8+ (sport, separate anchor)
Easy Money 5.7 (sport, separate anchor)
Wedding Day 5.10+/5.11- (sport, up and right of the lower Pocket Change ledge)
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Alcohol Wall South
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are four additional routes on lower Alcohol Wall South. They are as follows from left to right:
Just Plain Stupid 5.7 (mixed, gear at bottom)--shares anchor and top two bolts with Plate Techtonics.
Plate Techtonics 5.10/5.10+ (sport)
Blitzed 5.8 (sport)--shares anchor with Twisted
Twisted 5.8 (sport)
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Venarete Area : Crack Wars (aka Crack Whore... (5.10c)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom Wezwick and I put the anchor in, cleaned it and climbed it. Dennis Jackson, in RCNM (2006), says Ken Sims climbed this route first and called it Crack Wars.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : El Malpais
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The New Mexico Climber, a newsletter produced by Mark Dalen between at least 1976-79, shows many routes in the Malpais (at least 20). The climbs are on the cliffs 12 miles south of I-40 for several miles.
Early FAs were by Dave Baltz, Dave Dahrling, Paul Horak, Mark Dalen, Charles Ware, Steven Cheney, Davey Hammack, Rick Maleski and Merle Wheeler.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (03) Evil (5.10d)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guillatine crack above this route was not done by the old trad masters because of a huge flake to the left of the crack down low. Chris Kessler and I cleaned it off prior to the placement of the anchor at the top of the pitch. It is indeed a great pitch.
Greg Swift and Tim Johnson climbed the crack system immediately to the right by 1984 but unknown whether this was a FA.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : (15) Drunk Rednecks with Go... (5.8+)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Diablo Standard crack (first pitch crack awful) above this route had been climbed by Greg Swift and Tim Johnson In the early 1980s although I do not know if it was a FA.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (02) Sun Devil (5.11b PG13)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dennis Jackson notes in RCNM (2006) that Ken Sims did the FA of Sun Devil Crack to the left in the early 1980s.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg Swift and Tim Johnson did a lot of trad climbing in Diablo in the early 1980s. Greg mentioned that several climbs which are currently bolted have been climbed without bolts.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Tooth Standard FA with aid by Bill Hackett and Lee Davis. The route went up a hard corner on the right of the bottom of the Tooth. Then up the center section to the top of the now second pitch of Tooth Fairy. Next the climb went up and over a roof to a belay with old bolts. Climb right and then up and left then further left to the top of the now fourth Tooth Fairy pitch. The last pitch is the same as the current last Tooth Fairy pitch.
FFA of the Tooth Standard by Paul Horak and Paul S... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Extraction (5.10)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA with aid by Reed Cundiff, Cliff Naveau, Lee Davis and Mark Losleben.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth or Consequences (5.10a)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Mark Motes, Paul Horak and Glen Banks ca. 1979.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FFA by Paul Horak and Glen Banks ca 1976.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Decay (5.11+)
By: Karl Kiser When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA with aid by Lee Davis and Mark Milligan. The climb went up the Tooth Extraction corner, bat hooked some of the now Tooth Fairy pitch and generally got to the now 5th pitch on Tooth Fairy.
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