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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Karl K When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now Murf, It would take way too much time and space to type in all the details of the pro used! Wouldn't it be easier if, for every climb, we posted closeups of the gear we used in the order it was placed on the climb? I could carry the photo with me on the climb - maybe tape it to my rack or thigh - so I would be sure I was doing it right.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Swamp Slabs : Pinhead (5.10- R)
By: Karl K When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the traverse move was solid GM 5.9 (meaning I would have rated it 10b if it were anywhere else). That said, both I (at 6'2") and my wife (at 5'2") thought it was 5.9 - so at least it is not height dependent. Just very thin and scary.
I also second the idea that the face above this rounded ledge is quite runnout and that the lone bolt is less than stellar.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Karl K When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have tried to update the climb info based on these comments....
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Karl K When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Paul, for the FA info. Any idea on the name? Or rating of 2nd pitch?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Karl K When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The belayer's kneepads are awesome!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome
By: Karl K When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new approach trail is wonderful! (It used to be a sloggy mess if you got into the swamp...)
Follow cairns from the main trail starting at the open, slabby region. The trail leads into the woods off the right side of these slabs and is clear, obvious & easy. Skirts to the right of the swampy region. Below the dome, at the large slab, follow cairns up and left, aiming toward the left-center of Dozier Dome.
20-25 minutes; very straightforward.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pennyroyal Arches
By: Karl K When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach takes about 45 min. Longer than it looks from the road. Stay in the big trees directly below the exfoliation flake arches; stay away from the scrub trees on either side.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good line, but I found it to be much less fun than say "South Crack" or "The Boltway". More awkward.
Second pitch corner is sustained and can be hard to see your pro as you place it.
Third pitch is a bit runout - my smallest cam did not fit in the tiny crack near the end.
Fourth pitch is pretty straighforward.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pennyroyal Arches : White Slab (5.4 R)
By: Karl K When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easily done in 2 pitches with 60m rope. I thought the footholds/friction in the corner were too slick/water-polished to be 5.4. Felt more like 5.6.
Lead whole dihedral in one long pitch - 197' to poor anchor with a good bolt. Belay is just above a little roof about 10' left of corner system; it features cracks that looked solid, but most of the blocks were loose. A second bolt here would make me feel better.
Second pitch is runout, but on mostly large knobs. 5.4
Easy rappel starts... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Errett Out (5.7 PG13)
By: Karl K When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch moves from ledge 30' up to the left, past old 2-bolt anchor; up what looks like a ridge when viewed from the base. Pretty well protected.
Second pitch - very hard to see the first bolt (I went left & found a very old 2-bolt anchor before finding the first bolt 25' up from the anchors). The second pitch has more distance between bolts; not quite dangerous, but feels more "sporty" than the first pitch.
Rappel from top of second pitch is 2 2-rope rappels.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Bull Dozier (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got run off after the first pitch by a thunderstorm: easy 2 rope rope off chain anchors 15' right on that sloping ledge; any info on the 2nd & 3rd pitches appreciated.
I liked the first pitch better than Holdless Horror.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Karl K When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this in 14 pitches to the top (down the Painted Bowls descent). (For the record, I would strongly recommend rapelling down Solar Slab...)
The line is pretty continous in the 5.7 range. I thought that at least 8 of the pitches had many 5.6 or 5.7 moves. There are at least two very memorable steps over empty space as you change sides of the corner. Fun!
Many of the pitches follow beautiful, exposed aretes & faces. You need to be really comfortable placing pro on the varnished faces (t... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Romanian Rib - Left Side (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was not impressed by this route. Many better options on the Slabs to either side.... The first three pitches were quite good, but the rock quality, protection, line, and rock all deteriorated dramatically on the next few pitches, detracting from the fun.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : South Crack (5.8 R)
By: Karl K When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably my favorite climb in Tuolumne...
With a 60m rope, start with a short pitch to the top of the 5.4 pillar (just before the step right). Now P2 is a single, long 5.8 finger crack pitch to the great ledge.
P3 follows the crack up and right until it peters out.
The traditional route goes up and part the left side of the roof and is 5.7 (runout). I prefer to go up and right on runout 5.5 face (see SuperTopo) and then finish on the easy (and well protected) class 5 & class 4 corner to the to... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Hot Crossed Buns (5.6 PG13)
By: Karl K When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb had runouts of similar (or longer) than Mere Image to its right, but felt much safer as the runouts were on pretty easy rock.
Can get in a med/small cam at the ledge above the second bolt.
Starts just at the right edge of the bushes on the ledge.
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Location: NM : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Jam Your Blues Away (5.10a)
By: Karl K When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jackson's guide calls this 10a. I left it at that, although it may be closer to 5.9. Very fun.
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Location: NM : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa
By: Karl K When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ratings here seem a little soft, but not too bad. Climbs often have good stances for placing pro.
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: Karl K When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is also know as "Rhythm & Blues". On the (now closed) Troon Mountain.
And it was (is?) a beautiful, sustained crack. Maybe the best hand/large handcrack in Phoenix...
I always sigh when I spot it while climbing on Pinnacle Peak. Stupid developers and their "private" mountain.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Chicken Sh*t Sandwich (5.7+ PG13)
By: Karl K When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was thinking of trying it again. (kind of why I was looking for some new beta) I would probably need to find a different partner.... I don't think the one from last time would stand for it. She nearly killed me when she saw the junk I had climbed and how pathetic my pro was.
Its kind of like the great white whale: that easy move left is out there. Somewhere. Just waiting for me to finally find it.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Chicken Sh*t Sandwich (5.7+ PG13)
By: Karl K When: Apr 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I looked to go left too late. But I wandered all over the brushy ledge trying to go left. The easy climbing was tantalizingly close, but I could never see a way to get there. My last attempt (before going up my 5.7 ugly route) ended when I pulled two big handhold off.
Any idea how close to the end of the crack the leftward escape is? I have a feeling I went way too far up the cl.4 ledge before looking (although I did go back and never saw anything obvious).
This would be a good, well p... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route.
Finding the start was not obvious.
After climbing the pocketed face (cl. 3 - and way easier than it first looks), head to the far left side of the bush-covered area and locate a clean ledge below the big corner (~20' below a small pine).
Climb the big corner ~30', then trend right along a featured slanting ramp. We belayed here, but next time will just simul-climb a bit in order to reach the good ledge 240' up.
Also, as you climb straight up from the slanting ramp near the start, st... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent fun!
Here is my breakdown of the pitches:
#1: 120' to big ledge; funky seam start then trend right up the middle of the face; 5.4
#2: 150' to trees/bushes; middle of the face; 5.3
#3: 200'+ to huge ledge below varnished corner; fun face; 5.3
we had a 60m rope and had to move the belay 20 feet into the corner
#4: 110' up varnished corner; fun & easier than it looks, maybe 5.6 at the top@SEMICOL... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab
By: Karl K When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are bolt anchors (most with chains) at the top of virtually every climb/seam on the cliff.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climb. Much longer than it seems from the ground. 600'+
After the first pitch it is a romp, but a very fun romp! All pitches very well protected. This would be a great climb for a party with a newer leader as the 2nd & 3rd pitches are great practice.
First pitch was stiff 5.7 (maybe even 5.8), but had great edges for placing pro. I went to the second tree/bush: maybe 40' above the first tree/bush (which is passed on the left).
Second pitch is long, fun, heavily featured crack. N... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Rising Moons (5.5 PG13)
By: Karl K When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb, with lots of fun climbing. I thought the second pitch was fun with the best climbing on the route, but had some real runouts; particularly scary for a beginning leader. The climbing is straightforward with mostly very positive holds, but there are a couple of 30-40' sections where pro is virtually impossible.
The first pitch is fine (go under the chockstone).
The third pitch, even without big gear, is not runout.
Easy descent using the single rope rappel route to climbers... more >>
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