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Member Since: May 14, 2008
Last Visit: Feb 22, 2014
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: Thank you for being forward in addressing route names, Jesse. I understand that you are trying to be helpful rather than claiming routes. The use of descriptions in the “name field” of listed climbs is interpreted as a name whether that is the intent or not. Even if most climbers understand the difference, the descriptions have a way of turning into names over time. If succinct references to climbs are needed, consider a numbering system – Unknown 1, 2 or A, B, etc.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Jesse - most of the routes you have posted in this section were established by previous generations of climbers and have different names or are unnamed. To use convenient modern names is disrespectful to the history of the area. There is a reason the cliff is called the Zappa Wall. If a route name is not known, then it should be listed simply as “Unknown”. It is inappropriate to rewrite history.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Kangaru Rat When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: According to Bjornstad, the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). Both were climbed to the rim and have been repeated to the rim. The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.