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Member Since: May 14, 2008
Last Visit: Jun 25, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

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All 17 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 3 | Posts 14 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: Thank you for being forward in addressing route names, Jesse. I understand that you are trying to be helpful rather than claiming routes. The use of descriptions in the “name field” of listed climbs is interpreted as a name whether that is the intent or not. Even if most climbers understand the difference, the descriptions have a way of turning into names over time. If succinct references to climbs are needed, consider a numbering system – Unknown 1, 2 or A, B, etc.

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Jesse - most of the routes you have posted in this section were established by previous generations of climbers and have different names or are unnamed. To use convenient modern names is disrespectful to the history of the area. There is a reason the cliff is called the Zappa Wall. If a route name is not known, then it should be listed simply as “Unknown”. It is inappropriate to rewrite history.

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Kangaru Rat When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: According to Bjornstad, the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). Both were climbed to the rim and have been repeated to the rim. The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Colorado Finger CracksColoradoKangaru RatJun 25, 2014
re: ATTN: Green River, UT climbersSouthern Utah DesertsKangaru RatFeb 22, 2014
re: A New Kind of ChalkbagClimbing Gear DiscussionKangaru RatNov 20, 2013
re: Ethics opinions on naming boulder problemsGeneral ClimbingKangaru RatNov 8, 2013
re: Indian Creek Roof CracksSouthern Utah DesertsKangaru RatNov 3, 2013
re: Question regarding rappelling with two ropes...Sport ClimbingKangaru RatMay 23, 2013
re: Going to IC for the first time in March, what Guidebook do I want?Southern Utah DesertsKangaru RatJan 15, 2013
re: what the heck is a moderate anyway?General ClimbingKangaru RatMay 19, 2012
re: Valley GiantsTrad ClimbingKangaru RatAug 1, 2011
re: Route Star misleadingDiscuss MountainProject.comKangaru RatJun 23, 2011
re: Sheared boltsGeneral ClimbingKangaru RatDec 25, 2010
re: Bulldozers in Indian CreekSouthern Utah DesertsKangaru RatAug 30, 2010
re: FA system for sport routes needs to changeGeneral ClimbingKangaru RatApr 7, 2010
re: The Fiend of Indian Creek meets The Friends of Indian CreekSouthern Utah DesertsKangaru RatApr 3, 2010
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