Contributed Comments |
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Location: Kansas
By: Kai Huang When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fortunately or unfortunately that I will have to make a trip from Denver to Kansas City. I am not expecting any climbing, great if there is, but I would be interested in finding out if there is anything to do or see along the way. Also where can I camp over night for cheap or free? If anyone has any suggestions, that would be much appreciated.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Bolts & Hoes (5.11a)
By: Kai Huang When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock to the left of the 3rd bolt CREAKS.... I tried to karate kick it to see if it would break, but my foot is weaker than the rock.... I put an X on it.... Climb it with your own judgment... or maybe FA would want to use a crowbar to remove it....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just noted down my own beta on my blog, so I can remember it next time I work on it and to share it with shorties.
BETA ALERT!!!
Shorty's Beta!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : The Ladder (V2)
By: Kai Huang When: Jun 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta video:
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Kai Huang When: May 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Kai Huang When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Kai Huang When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hardest pitch was the descending pitch. When descending, don't go down to the back side. Stay on the ridge. There were several cairns that led us to the back, lost, hiked back up to the ridge, and found the 4th class downclimb.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any more weather reports for Rifle? Is this coming up weekend possible to climb there or maybe the following one?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't have your chalk bag, but GO GATORS!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11 bolts to 2 biners anchor.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. In this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. I am asking this because if I pre-hang draws, I can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and I wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Kai Huang When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt "Hip Hop" MCkee crushing The Mighty Dog, 12c, at Clear Creek Canyon, Golden, CO.
Watch it in HD.
Short man's beta.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Kai Huang When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Makes you think twice at crux!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: Kai Huang When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone done it without going into the hold for lieback? The way I did it, go straight up from 4th bolt, left to the crimp, high right foot, and high right to the middle crimp between the jugs. Then pop left into jug. It feels a little smoother and more direct. Just wondering if anyone does it that way and what you would grade it. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice
By: Kai Huang When: Jul 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: watch out for a rattler between high wire and wall of justice. he likes to hang out on the trail going to wall of justice. moved him a few times and still came back to lay on the same spot.
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