Comments: Fortunately or unfortunately that I will have to make a trip from Denver to Kansas City. I am not expecting any climbing, great if there is, but I would be interested in finding out if there is anything to do or see along the way. Also where can I camp over night for cheap or free? If anyone has any suggestions, that would be much appreciated.
Comments: The rock to the left of the 3rd bolt CREAKS.... I tried to karate kick it to see if it would break, but my foot is weaker than the rock.... I put an X on it.... Climb it with your own judgment... or maybe FA would want to use a crowbar to remove it....
Comments: If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through.
Comments: I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them.
Comments: The hardest pitch was the descending pitch. When descending, don't go down to the back side. Stay on the ridge. There were several cairns that led us to the back, lost, hiked back up to the ridge, and found the 4th class downclimb.
Comments: Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time.
Comments: So, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. In this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. I am asking this because if I pre-hang draws, I can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and I wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp.
Comments: Has anyone done it without going into the hold for lieback? The way I did it, go straight up from 4th bolt, left to the crimp, high right foot, and high right to the middle crimp between the jugs. Then pop left into jug. It feels a little smoother and more direct. Just wondering if anyone does it that way and what you would grade it. Thanks.