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Leading up pitch 2 of Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold, AZ


Member Since: Sep 27, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,196
Total Points: 148
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 212 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 65 | Stars 47 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Skeleton Key (5.10+)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Fun and thin. I think it has cleaned up a lot from what others have said. A good intro to the slab here and maybe a good warmup for "Bad to the Bone".


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Layed to Rest (5.10)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: From the anchors go up the right facing dihedral for strong lie backing and precarious balancey movement. Be mindful of parties on the ground as there is quite a bit of loose rock in the corner. Fun and tense moves to a two bolt anchor with open shuts as I recall. If you read this in time bring a wrench for a spinning nut on one of the anchors. A very fun pitch in spite of the loose rock. A 70 will make it to the top from the ground. Two 70 meter raps to the ground.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Bad To The Bone (5.12-)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: EFR speaks the truth! .11c is a hellacious sand-bag. To me this felt at least .12a Good rock quality on small holds with very delicate movement. Good route that I would go back for!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Master Blaster (5.10c)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: Helmets mandatory! Pulled off multiple fist sized holds in the bolt line. Foot holds were crumbling as I went up and a great deal of the rock was visibly loose or suspiciously hollow. Rock quality detracted from the route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : It's A Wanderful Life (5.11+)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I think. 11+ is appropriate here. The crux is in your face and difficult and exiting the roof is no cake walk. The rest of the climb is straightforward and fun. First pitch could make a good warmup. Quality route!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Flying Monkeys (5.10b/c)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorites in the area. There is a shortage of tall routes in Munchkinland and this one does not disappoint. Highly featured climbing on big holds.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Everything's Gone Green (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: The new leader should not take the 5.9 rating for granted. The first roof is not a joke and there are some distinct cruxy sections. The runout at the top is nothing of note. A fun route worth doing!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Kestrel's Last Stand (5.10b)
By: K-Tanz When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Nice long moderate. Definite fun! A very good option if you are looking to climb some 10's here.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Great Race (5.10c/d)
By: K-Tanz When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: One of the better sport climbs I have been on out here! Bringing a cam for the moves from the arete to the upper face is really not necessary. I found it completely safe and well protected. A classic for the area!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Finktion Wall : Sampsonite (5.10b/c)
By: K-Tanz When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought the start was actually the first crux. Good and varied movement from jugs to thin crimps and back again. I thought clipping the last bolt before the finish was the crux for sure. Movement out right on good holds does indeed involve "a bunch of scary looking blocks" which creak and sound hollow but everything worked out fine. Left at this spot puts you on a ledge and intersects "Finktion Arete" and involves some steep pulling. Overall a good route. I was distracted by the sketchy soundi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: I was expecting anchors at the top of pitch one but the anchors which are there appear to be a bit out of the way. Belayed off of a couple giant slung blocks at the base of the arete utilizing the tag line.

The arete variation was safe and quite fun I thought! The dihedral is extremely intimidating but protects very well and really is 5.9. There are face holds which you can utilize and I even got a few no hands rests. You only need to lieback a few moves if you're not comfortable with it. A @P... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! I would venture to say a new classic. I misread the beta and stoppped at the first set of anchors on my first go. Don't be me! If you have a 70m cord push it all the way to the top! 70 is just barely long enough for both ends to reach. I placed three pieces between bolts 2 and 3 (two would be safe) and one between the last bolt and anchors. Go climb this!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was pretty stiff for a 5.6 but I have a feeling that's just the standard of the area. I found the first pitch to be the definite crux. The move from the starting ramp to gain the big holds on the face is tough to protect but a #3 Mastercam in a big pin scar seated pretty comfortably. Bring lots of long slings for the P1 face, I used all 10 I brought. Moving to the anchors don't be tempted to move left with the anchors at eye level, but instead move up with the anchors about ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Steel Crazy (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route! The hangers are extremely well camouflaged though so be careful. I climbed right past the belay station at the top of pitch two and ended up tying off a ton of chicken heads before downclimbing and finding the anchors. If you find yourself tying off chickenheads or wishing repeatedly for bolts you are now off route. In doing this, though, I realized that it may be possible to link pitches two and three with a 70 meter rope....maybe. Keep your eyes open and follow the steel!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Technowitch (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I liked this the best out of all the lines I got on while at The Tower. Golden Stairs was a close second. It cruises up to a crux section which involves a large throw or thin crimps depending on your style. Really fun safe whippers high off the ground! I thought this route was actually easier than Once Upon a Time which called for much more endurance.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Just Can't Get Any (5.12b PG13)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I would disagree with the upgrade due to holds breaking. I missed the send on the move to the final hold and am definitely not climbing 12c/d. Just my 2 cents, though. Whatever the case she is a crimpy momma!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Treiber's Deception (5.7)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The second "bolt" on this protecting the crux is able to be bent with your bare hands. Probably not the best first trad lead. Face moves on the offwidths are super helpful. The pro was solid where it was. A #4 is nice, but you can leave it on the ground if you have the number five for the top. Not the best time I have had out at the McDowell's. Rap off the Northwest side with a 60. Once was enough for me on this


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Cold Fusion (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: Seriously good stuff. Really technical and delicate climbing between bolts six and eight move into some .11 territory into a sit down rest and finishes with gigantic jugs. Highly recommended. If you are shorter definite .12a, taller people could be .11d.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: Absolutely fantastic route! Gear is abundant and rock is relatively solid. We did it January 16, forecast was for a high of about 60 and temps were gorgeous. One piece of beta, though...

When rapping the route at the second rap station BEAR RIGHT (climber's right)! We went left into the abyss (with 70 meter rope) and the rope ends barely lowered us onto the first pitch ramp where some shenanigans ensued. A 60 would have left us totally screwed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: Left a shiny new red Wild Country Rocks stopper on pitch three about halfway up. Worked on it for ten minutes or so and feel like it was close to coming out but no dice. If you take the time to dig it out consider it booty!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 17, 2012

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Comments: I didn't have any problems with rock quality. Perhaps this has seen more travel. I thought this route was a lot of fun! Would definitely recommend it. Need to come back for the send but thought the route was a lot of fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Swiss Tower : The Abyss (5.11a)
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Awesome jug haul. If you are pulling on small holds you need to look harder. Crux is definitely before the first bolt. Get after it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Reef of Rocks
By: K-Tanz When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: The find route is a little tough and definitely has changed since SQII was printed. Nearing the top of the road you will pass some stored ski lift equipment on your left and come around a left hairpin. Right before the guard rail there is a convenient pull off on the right immediately next to an obvious marked hiking trail. From this point you want to hike back down the road maybe 50 yards. You will encounter a faint trail on the left that moves through a ton of fallen trees and debris. The tra... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Horse Of A Different Color (5.11a)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: The best route I have done in the area! Fun balance moves lead to jug hauling and the money moves at the end. It is at the very far right end of the wall just to the left of the obvious broken blocky corner (Flying Monkeys). Highly recommended


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: At the risk of sounding like I should have been climbing on the Gumby Wall I agree that the find route in the Squeezing the Lemmon II could use some fine tuning. I hiked around for a good long while and ended up heading to the bone yard cause I couldn't find Sky Valley. There are a ton of formations around that area and more than one fifth class gulley. The description on the Mountain Project link would have gotten me there, I think.

Thanks for the work on the book though, EFR, it is very help... more >>


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