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Leading up pitch 2 of Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold, AZ

Member Since: Sep 27, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,512
Total Points: 119
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 10
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All (161) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (16) | Comments (29) | Posts (55) | Stars (33) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Finktion Wall : Sampsonite (5.10b/c)
By: K-Tanz When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I thought the start was actually the first crux. Good and varied movement from jugs to thin crimps and back again. I thought clipping the last bolt before the finish was the crux for sure. Movement out right on good holds does indeed involve "a bunch of scary looking blocks" which creak and sound hollow but everything worked out fine. Left at this spot puts you on a ledge and intersects "Finktion Arete" and involves some steep pulling. Overall a good route. I was distracted by the sketchy soundi... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Beulah's Book (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: I was expecting anchors at the top of pitch one but the anchors which are there appear to be a bit out of the way. Belayed off of a couple giant slung blocks at the base of the arete utilizing the tag line.

The arete variation was safe and quite fun I thought! The dihedral is extremely intimidating but protects very well and really is 5.9. There are face holds which you can utilize and I even got a few no hands rests. You only need to lieback a few moves if you're not comfortable with it. A @P... more >>

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! I would venture to say a new classic. I misread the beta and stoppped at the first set of anchors on my first go. Don't be me! If you have a 70m cord push it all the way to the top! 70 is just barely long enough for both ends to reach. I placed three pieces between bolts 2 and 3 (two would be safe) and one between the last bolt and anchors. Go climb this!

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was pretty stiff for a 5.6 but I have a feeling that's just the standard of the area. I found the first pitch to be the definite crux. The move from the starting ramp to gain the big holds on the face is tough to protect but a #3 Mastercam in a big pin scar seated pretty comfortably. Bring lots of long slings for the P1 face, I used all 10 I brought. Moving to the anchors don't be tempted to move left with the anchors at eye level, but instead move up with the anchors about ... more >>

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Steel Crazy (5.9)
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route! The hangers are extremely well camouflaged though so be careful. I climbed right past the belay station at the top of pitch two and ended up tying off a ton of chicken heads before downclimbing and finding the anchors. If you find yourself tying off chickenheads or wishing repeatedly for bolts you are now off route. In doing this, though, I realized that it may be possible to link pitches two and three with a 70 meter rope....maybe. Keep your eyes open and follow the steel!

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Technowitch (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I liked this the best out of all the lines I got on while at The Tower. Golden Stairs was a close second. It cruises up to a crux section which involves a large throw or thin crimps depending on your style. Really fun safe whippers high off the ground! I thought this route was actually easier than Once Upon a Time which called for much more endurance.

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Just Can't Get Any (5.12b PG13)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I would disagree with the upgrade due to holds breaking. I missed the send on the move to the final hold and am definitely not climbing 12c/d. Just my 2 cents, though. Whatever the case she is a crimpy momma!

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Treiber's Deception (5.7)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: The second "bolt" on this protecting the crux is able to be bent with your bare hands. Probably not the best first trad lead. Face moves on the offwidths are super helpful. The pro was solid where it was. A #4 is nice, but you can leave it on the ground if you have the number five for the top. Not the best time I have had out at the McDowell's. Rap off the Northwest side with a 60. Once was enough for me on this

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Cold Fusion (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: Seriously good stuff. Really technical and delicate climbing between bolts six and eight move into some .11 territory into a sit down rest and finishes with gigantic jugs. Highly recommended. If you are shorter definite .12a, taller people could be .11d.

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: Absolutely fantastic route! Gear is abundant and rock is relatively solid. We did it January 16, forecast was for a high of about 60 and temps were gorgeous. One piece of beta, though...

When rapping the route at the second rap station BEAR RIGHT (climber's right)! We went left into the abyss (with 70 meter rope) and the rope ends barely lowered us onto the first pitch ramp where some shenanigans ensued. A 60 would have left us totally screwed.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 23, 2012

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Comments: Left a shiny new red Wild Country Rocks stopper on pitch three about halfway up. Worked on it for ten minutes or so and feel like it was close to coming out but no dice. If you take the time to dig it out consider it booty!

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Dec 17, 2012

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Comments: I didn't have any problems with rock quality. Perhaps this has seen more travel. I thought this route was a lot of fun! Would definitely recommend it. Need to come back for the send but thought the route was a lot of fun.

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Swiss Tower : The Abyss (5.11a)
By: K-Tanz When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Awesome jug haul. If you are pulling on small holds you need to look harder. Crux is definitely before the first bolt. Get after it!

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Reef of Rocks
By: K-Tanz When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: The find route is a little tough and definitely has changed since SQII was printed. Nearing the top of the road you will pass some stored ski lift equipment on your left and come around a left hairpin. Right before the guard rail there is a convenient pull off on the right immediately next to an obvious marked hiking trail. From this point you want to hike back down the road maybe 50 yards. You will encounter a faint trail on the left that moves through a ton of fallen trees and debris. The tra... more >>

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Horse Of A Different Color (5.11a)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: The best route I have done in the area! Fun balance moves lead to jug hauling and the money moves at the end. It is at the very far right end of the wall just to the left of the obvious broken blocky corner (Flying Monkeys). Highly recommended

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Sky Valley
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: At the risk of sounding like I should have been climbing on the Gumby Wall I agree that the find route in the Squeezing the Lemmon II could use some fine tuning. I hiked around for a good long while and ended up heading to the bone yard cause I couldn't find Sky Valley. There are a ton of formations around that area and more than one fifth class gulley. The description on the Mountain Project link would have gotten me there, I think.

Thanks for the work on the book though, EFR, it is very help... more >>

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Totally Jacked (5.12b)
By: K-Tanz When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Really fun pulling on pretty sinker pockets. This is definitely easier if you're tall. I would say that 12b is an overestimation of the difficulty. Felt like mostly eleven pulling into V3 crux up into easier eleven territory. Probably more like 11d? Whatever the grade it is a fun climb!

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Rad Lad (5.11)
By: K-Tanz When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: Super thoughtful and balancy full value 5.11 climbing. Definitely a fun climb. Gotta get back out for the RP!

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: K-Tanz When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: Awesome route. We did it in five pitches. The route becomes very inobvious at the end of pitch four (after the "50 foot traverse left"). We went to the obvious looking flake and dihedral system which started to the left of what we thought was our belay ledge, belaying off of a slung boulder to the left of the anchors in the middle of the traverse which was apparently wrong. Pro was tricky and the rock was choss. Stay away from that flake system and you should be all good. Easy to bail from anywh... more >>

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Green Monster/George of the... (5.11)
By: K-Tanz When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: Good stuff. Rating not as stiff as other climbs in the area, probably solid 5.11. Definite crux section leads into a no hands rest and jug pulling. Would definitely hop on it again

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Spiderman (5.11)
By: K-Tanz When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: Pretty sweet route. A long line of thought provoking pumpy granite with unique movement. Most definitely sandbagged at 5.11 but in-line with the grades of the other routes in the area. Definitely will need to work some endurance before coming back for this one

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Wild Card (5.12a)
By: K-Tanz When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climb! Tough boulder start leads to some strenuous face moves, a big pull over the roof, and a very committing throw. Definitely a fun time. Grade is possibly a bit soft

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: K-Tanz When: Mar 7, 2011

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Comments: Definitely the most uniquely featured climb I have ever been on. Maybe my favorite route in AZ. 40-50 feet of amazing tufa pulling to a no hands rest into an absolute overhung bucket-fest. Definitely pumpy. Blew off the move to the finishing mantle a bunch of times from the pump. Highly recommended!

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Smokin Guns (5.11c)
By: K-Tanz When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Very fun route! Jug haul through the roof to a series of crux moves exiting onto the face. I thought the rating of .11c was dead on. Highly recommended

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Big Weld Show (5.11a)
By: K-Tanz When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: One of my favorites at the pond. Everything from bg dynamic moves on large jugs to thin face climbing on great edges and pockets. Definitely a thought provoking line which provides the best view at The Pond. I don't think a cam is necessary near the top. There is a bit of a runout but the fall is clean and if you completed the rest of the climb you should have no problems at this section. Definitely recommended

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