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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Room To Shroom Area : Room To Shroom (5.9)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While it is short, what you do get is stellar. Very clean, smooth rock and excellent jams, even got a couple lieback moves, and tons of fun.
This one had me smiling at the top, such good movement.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are jacked up strong and climbing ALL the time... probably in the Needles..., this might feel like 5.5 to you.
For most mortals, this is 5.8 cruxes with sustained, dare I say, 5.7 climbing. I would tilt an ear to those who say the sustained climbing is 5.6
5.5 is a sandbag.
This is a wonderfully beautiful climb in a beautiful area. You are likely to have it all to yourself, if you get the season right. (not summer!) Combine it with a weekend trip to the brewery and you've got a perf... more >>
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Charlotte Dome : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn. 6 hours from the car to the summit.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Sill : Swiss Arete (5.7) : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, where did you guys rope up to climb the extra couple pitches down low?
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Keeler Needle
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look in the Secor High Sierra guide for a more comprehensive list of routes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Gilligan's Island : Mary Ann's Face : Route 66 (5.4)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this were in the campground it would always have someone on it.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Dec 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Cranny.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Wandering Winnebago (5.8+)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While no single move may be as hard as the crux on Direct South Face, the overall feeling here was much more sustained and more "heady." The step around the arete may cause you to pause.
Be mindful that after you pass the arete a fall puts your rope in danger of slicing down the arete, until you get a piece.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Sweat Band (5.10c PG13)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whatever, about all the grades and bolting. It's a great climb.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Banquet (5.9)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall a steep fun route with spice. I fell on a well placed #2 BD that held, at the second crux section.
But, yes, rock quality will have you looking closely at your gear placements and climbing gingerly in places.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Frustration Creek : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess you don't need a cheat stone anymore!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Driving Limitations (5.8)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are calling this route 5.8 I say it is contrived. The natural line goes up good and easy holds making this a Jtree 5.5 .... except easier than Right On. Which I guess makes Right On harder than 5.5 or this easier than 5.5.
Go figure!
It should be bolted for the 5.5 leader and left at that!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait Of Power (5.10a)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt is almost falling out.
Definately an intriging route, albeit short.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Fishhook Arête (5.9) : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We combined p1 and p2 to a full 196 feet.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Hangover (5.13a)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, I've never seen anyone on this. I've seen one party go through Pearly Gate, otherwise all traffic goes through Traitor Horn.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Minus a star for the crowds, and minus another one for loose rocks at some of the belays. Having this all to yourself would be great, but chances seem rare for that.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : This Ain't No Weenie Roast (5.10b)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60 meter will just barely get you down.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Ma... (5.7)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha! That biner is still up there to back the broken mussy hook. It is showing signs of wear.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Conan's Corridor : Boulderado (aka California ... (5.11a)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 10-14-2012 there are two "bolts" with rap rings at the top of this climb.
I say "bolts" because they looked more like a hardware store screw-eyes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Conan's Corridor : Gem (5.8) : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are definately better options than slinging the handle.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a bitchin' photo... this place looks awesome!
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the fourth pitch, going up and right on a series of small but easy ledges leads to the dihedral. Go this way for technically easier climbing than going to the bolt.
From what I've been told, that is The Tree Route. The bolt is on a different climb.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Hard Lark (5.7)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route finding on this climb bewildered me.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Whampo (5.7) : Photo
By: Justin Tomlinson When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you go straight up from the second belay, you come to the overlap/undercling (seen here) with the wavy slab and original route above. For the variation shown in this picture, put pro in the overlap and follow it right, then up and right. The initial traverse move right felt about 5.8. From there, a rest, then maybe 5,7 climbing along the undercling to its end, where it meets the easy gully which takes you up to the standard 3rd pitch belay.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Cap Rock : Face I (V0)
By: Justin Tomlinson When: May 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good delicate,balance-friction problem that i have walked past many times. I'm glad I finally climbed this today.
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