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Joshua Tree


Member Since: May 1, 2005
Last Visit: Sep 22, 2014
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Point Rank: # 10,059
Total Points: 22
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Justin Peacock been climbing?










Contributions


All 78 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 39 | Stars 18 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : A Brief Squall (5.7+)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: A nut and hangar fell off of one of the anchor bolts. It was spinning and unfortunately didn't notice until after my partner rapped. Didn't have a wrench to fix!


Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : The Orange Corner (5.7)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: It appears the anchor bolts are missing 7/22/12.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: So good. The traverse is easy but a little scary for the "traverse-adverse" like myself.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: The start is spicy. I agree that this start is as hard or harder than Sail Away. It's weird and hard to protect. The crack itself is fantastic! Only wish it was longer...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Bimbo (5.10a X)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a super fun TR! Some fun and challenging friction climbing. Haven't done much Josh friction but 10a/b seems right to me. If you have a about 10-15 meters of webbing or an extra rope you can run it around a giant boulder above the route for an easy TR.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Toe Jam Express (5.3)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Fun for a quick route but nothing magical. The first 1/3 of the route protects with hand size cams, but the rest needs big cams. Saw a beginning leader get stuck mid route when he realized he had no pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Steady Breeze (5.7 R)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: 5.7 is a total sandbag for the start if you take it head on. There are some good crimps but they're THIN tip trashers and the rock is steep initially. 10a for the bottom, then 5.6-5.7 for the rest which is fun and straightforward. If this was a sport climb almost anywhere else it would be 10a. 5.7 is a little over the top sandbag, even for Josh.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Morning Warm-Up (5.9 R)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: The start felt 10a to me, but then 5.9 after that initial sequence.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Gotcha Bush (5.6)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Stiff start for 5.6 but fun otherwise.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Justin Peacock When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: Fun times! This really is choose your own adventure climbing. Be ready for some runouts, but generally excellent pro when you get it. Also agreed that most of the climbing is 5.4ish, with a touch of 5.7 here and there.

FYI: We did this in 3 pitches with a 70m rope, running the rope out pretty much each time. That got us to the big ledge at the top, and we 3rd classed the last 50 feet to the ridge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: Hanger still missing on 5th bolt... Agreed--climbing is very easy above this point, but a beginner leader might not love the runout.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8)
By: Justin Peacock When: May 1, 2005

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Comments: My first-ever outside route many years ago... It's short and fun for a beginner. Pretty good first lead and aid practice, too.