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Member Since: Apr 8, 2006
Last Visit: May 30, 2014
Contact Justin Edl


Point Rank: # 306
Total Points: 1,805
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Justin Edl been climbing?










Contributions


All 552 | Routes 107 | Areas 24 | Photos 45 | Page Improvments | Comments 150 | Posts 20 | Stars 191 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Mound Woodson : The Stone Cold Cave : The Stone Cold Stunna (V8-9)
By: Justin Edl When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: Jay, the angle of the wall is measured by "degrees past vertical", meaning it is measured down from a vertical wall. So a 50 is steeper than a 40, and a 60 is steeper than either. By your way of thinking, 130 degrees would be an accurate interpretation of what is typically called 50 degrees overhanging. Yes, a math degree and currently working on more math/school. :)


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: Apparently not the hardest climb in the world at it's time, though right on the cutting edge and curiously unmentioned here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_rock_climbing

Personally I find this one VERY impressive, especially after seeing that list. Count in the fact that Steve did this in relative isolation and its just that much more impressive. I also remember hearing about how he at first rated this one 13a, then repeated every other hard crack he could get his hands on, and after... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9) : Photo
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 15, 2012

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Comments: Bad ass! I was never that creative when I was climbing at that grade. It works better when you stack your fist against the back of your hand instead of you palm, but that is certainly the idea. That young man will be ripping up the fatties in no time!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Apparently, according to Rob Kelman, someone has taken it upon themselves to remove one of the anchors on one of the Rob's routes in this area and spray paint a swastica on the rock in its place. I hope that my comment did not inspire that, as that was not the point. The point of my comment was to tell Rob to quit exacerbating the situation in Vedauwoo by disrespecting local names and customs, not to elicit threats against him or attacks on routes he has put up. The greater point to that was ... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Yes Camhead, Honnold did this, and apparently quite quickly at that. Peewee did the second ascent, and some other folks including myself have done it as well. Of note is the fact that many if not most of the repeats (including mine) were done using a new sequence that involves dynoing from a thin finger lock that is a little farther out from the undercling lock that Petro uses to hit the jug at the horizontal near the lip in that clip on Masters of Stone. The new beta makes the route a bit ea... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : Unnamed OW (5.11)
By: Justin Edl When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: I had heard rumor of someone finding a "new" route in this area that fit the description for this quite well, and given the fact that this route has never been recorded, I decided it would be best to post it up and clear up any possible confusion.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Rib : NFL Dyno (V10)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: Here is a video: archive.org/details/nfldyno-2-2-2006


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: Just to voice a local opinion, I actually think the anchor is fine. I also think it is fine to add anchors in situations like this where the circumstances fit. I could well imagine a large part of the draw on this particular route is the fact that that pitch is nice and sheltered even in a heavy downpour, and due to its orientation and protected location, it is a great cold weather climb. Does anyone know how the FAist feels about this anchor?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Columbo Crack (5.11d V3)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Dan, nice work. I did it from the sit on finger locks trailing a right heel hook, though I somehow missed the beta for the original problem because I fell off the top a bunch of times. I can't comment on the grade as it was a couple of years ago and I was tired at the end of the day. Also, I was under the impression that it had been done before as when I was on it (June of 2010) there was chalk all the way to the bottom. Cool problem! Thanks for posting all these videos Dan! Gets me psyche... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: Also, an ISBN would be great. Make sure it refers to an actual book that is/was in publication and actually contains the information you claim. Also, is this really the way a man such as yourself deals with situations like this? Don't badasses like you knock heads and take names, not undermine reputations like high school girls?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Jay, I am glad I give your life purpose. What backs it up is your incessant negativity toward anything I contribute and also that people have told me on several occasions that you were trashing my reputation to anyone who would listen. I have never met you and the only communication I had with you before you turned into an asshole toward me was me trying to get you, one of the people whose climbing I greatly respected, try some of my boulders. Your overall behavior, not just to me but just in... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Also, Jay, you got a reference for that Halfpenny comment or are you just being your usual contrary self, making up facts in order to paint the situation what you want it to be? You regularly go out of your way to tinker with my life in a negative way, so without some kind of reference to back up that statement, I am just going to chock it up to complete BS. I imagine if Halfpenny did that, Rob would have used that fact to defend himself. Given that I would put his knowledge of the area again... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Right. And if you two don't get in line....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Rob, when you named this rock Limbo Rock and posted a new and redundant area for it, is the first time I ever heard of this referred to as Limbo Rock. Your assertion that Limbo is the accepted name is flat out wrong. You and your crew might refer to it as such, but that hardly makes it its accepted name honored by years of use. I find it interesting that you would make such an assertion considering there are folks like me roaming around up at Vedauwoo MANY days every year who know MANY of the... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Remote Control (5.12b)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: This route now has an anchor, on top and to the climber's left. This is an excellent route that should get done more often.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and...
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: BTW, responding to the e-mail years after the fact, and then claiming that you adequately followed up...it's the kind of stuff I am talking about. I hereby nominate you for Congress.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and...
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Lesson: When someone who knows what they are talking about makes an offer to help, don't turn them down and proceed to unnecessarily moderate their contributions, all the while letting and endless stream of much much MUCH worse BS spew forth from the accounts of numerous other users. I used to think this site was a wonderful resource that could be used with a great deal more integrity than, say, 8a.nu or rockclimbing.com. Unfortunately, due to repeated mishandling of situations over the years ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Telephone Road : Eagle Rock : Angry Birds (5.12a)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: Davin, get that info and we will post it up. If it has been TR'd, then it has had a free ascent....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Buford : Fingorilla (5.11+)
By: Justin Edl When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: This now has an anchor.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Telephone Road : Eagle Rock : Angry Birds (5.12a)
By: Justin Edl When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: This is a really cool route. Great rock, great position, and interesting movement. This climb is very uncharacteristic for Vedauwoo. So if you are sick of all the burly cracks and in a mood for something a bit sportier, you should check this one out.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and...
By: Justin Edl When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: A few years ago I offered to go through all of Vedauwoo and organize it into individual crags, but the admins never responded to my offer. Maybe I will get motivated to do that again someday...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Iguana Dome : Stingray (5.13d)
By: Justin Edl When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: I seem to remember hearing somewhere that someone used pitons to widen the finger locks on this one after Suzuki's ascent, so perhaps this could account for the discrepancy in the grade? That was heard/read completely second hand though, so who knows. Can anyone verify the veracity of such a claim?

Also, so psyched to hear about some fellows checking this one out. I am always up for some quality crack porn on the net, so thanks for the inspiration guys! Sooooooo jealous!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Vedajuicer (V10-11)
By: Justin Edl When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: Lol, Pat. I think I lived under this rock three or four days a week from mid Nov. to the end of Dec. of one year, and again from late March until some time in May the following spring. I lived there for some days before that, and have been back for numerous subsequent visits. I obviously think highly of this particular rock. :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Price of Evil (5.13-)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Sick work Mason! I had to hear an earful from Bob Scarpelli last year because someone had left all that gear in this thing. He was incensed. Not only was it a significant visual blight, but he also objected to someone working the line in such poor style. He had put in some real effort on this line years ago and was going to be PISSED if someone climbed it in such poor style and compared their successes to his own failure on the route. He would be glad to know that it was done in good style.... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : The Lost Wall : The Lost Crack (5.13)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, Andy. I also thought it was an amazing line, and just couldn't wait any longer. There are still more to do though....

As for the cruxes, I too found it to be on you until you stand up on top. So though it is short, it is full value. I am interested to hear what others think of the grade as well. For me, it felt like a couple easier moves into a hard V8 or V9, then a brief rest on a good tight hand followed by another V6 or V7 crux. I think most people will agree with the difficulty... more >>


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