Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 8, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 2, 2014
Contact Justin Edl


Point Rank: # 307
Total Points: 1,819
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 1
42 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Justin Edl been climbing?










Contributions


All 566 | Routes 107 | Areas 24 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 159 | Posts 24 | Stars 191 | Ratings 15
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crow Creek Boulders : The Process of Belief (V8)
By: Justin Edl When: Sep 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It's a good line with a novel move. I don't believe it's in the bouldering guide, but it's plainly visible from the road. I hope you check it out and enjoy it :).


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spaghetti aka Third Lost Wa... : Death by Hantavirus (5.9+)
By: Justin Edl When: Sep 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm fairly confident the obvious crack routes on this prominence have been done, though I regrettably don't remember the names. Davin Bagdonas and Bevin Frost said they put them up, so they would be the ones to ask.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A worthy note regarding the grade of this route is it was originally done without sticky rubber using by today's standards clunky toed shoes. This is likely why this feels relatively soft compared to hand/fist cracks and OWs at the same grade at Vedauwoo by today's standards.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strong Love (5.11b)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A worthy note regarding the grade of this route is it was originally done without sticky rubber using by today's standards clunky toed shoes. This is likely why this feels relatively soft compared to hand/fist cracks and OWs at the same grade at Vedauwoo by today's standards.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Parade Rock : Soft Parade (5.11c)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A worthy note regarding the grade of this route is it was originally done without sticky rubber using by today's standards clunky toed shoes. This is likely why this feels relatively soft compared to hand/fist cracks and OWs at the same grade at Vedauwoo by today's standards.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Analog (V8-9)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Video beta for Analog on this clip, as well as some cool problems in both The Acres as well as Upper Blair, off to the trail to the right behind Spectreman and on the way to Spectreman, for anyone who is interested:



Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Party Dome : Lattice Action (V8) : Photo
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Cool photo :). Hard to tell, but the crack is about 30 degrees past vertical, and leans left at about thirty degrees past vertical as well. Steep!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : The Red Snapper (V10)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Old scrappy video of a flared hands ascent:



Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Vedajuicer (V11)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A note about the start that came up recently: the crack just kind of grows out of the rock (and grows back in at the end :)), so there is not really a visually obvious start. Nonetheless, the starting holds for both the hands and feet are specifically defined. The starting finger lock (first knuckle, middle finger, right hand lock) should be obvious and full of chalk, before the obvious sequence of really bad, flared hands. The starting foot is the left foot in the very first pod in th... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Mound Woodson : The Stone Cold Cave : The Stone Cold Stunna (V8-9)
By: Justin Edl When: Nov 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Jay, the angle of the wall is measured by "degrees past vertical", meaning it is measured down from a vertical wall. So a 50 is steeper than a 40, and a 60 is steeper than either. By your way of thinking, 130 degrees would be an accurate interpretation of what is typically called 50 degrees overhanging. Yes, a math degree and currently working on more math/school. :)


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Apparently not the hardest climb in the world at it's time, though right on the cutting edge and curiously unmentioned here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_...

Personally I find this one VERY impressive, especially after seeing that list. Count in the fact that Steve did this in relative isolation and its just that much more impressive. I also remember hearing about how he at first rated this one 13a, then repeated every other hard crack he could get his hands on, and after... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9) : Photo
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Bad ass! I was never that creative when I was climbing at that grade. It works better when you stack your fist against the back of your hand instead of you palm, but that is certainly the idea. That young man will be ripping up the fatties in no time!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Apparently, according to Rob Kelman, someone has taken it upon themselves to remove one of the anchors on one of the Rob's routes in this area and spray paint a swastica on the rock in its place. I hope that my comment did not inspire that, as that was not the point. The point of my comment was to tell Rob to quit exacerbating the situation in Vedauwoo by disrespecting local names and customs, not to elicit threats against him or attacks on routes he has put up. The greater point to that was ... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Yes Camhead, Honnold did this, and apparently quite quickly at that. Peewee did the second ascent, and some other folks including myself have done it as well. Of note is the fact that many if not most of the repeats (including mine) were done using a new sequence that involves dynoing from a thin finger lock that is a little farther out from the undercling lock that Petro uses to hit the jug at the horizontal near the lip in that clip on Masters of Stone. The new beta makes the route a bit ea... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : Unnamed OW (5.11)
By: Justin Edl When: May 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I had heard rumor of someone finding a "new" route in this area that fit the description for this quite well, and given the fact that this route has never been recorded, I decided it would be best to post it up and clear up any possible confusion.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Rib : NFL Dyno (V11)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Here is a video: archive.org/details/nfldyno-2-... ...

and here is another one. Please pardon the wonkiness of it, since a friend originally put it together to try for a specific commercial contract. BTW, did not send the sit in the video, but have done it since :).




Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just to voice a local opinion, I actually think the anchor is fine. I also think it is fine to add anchors in situations like this where the circumstances fit. I could well imagine a large part of the draw on this particular route is the fact that that pitch is nice and sheltered even in a heavy downpour, and due to its orientation and protected location, it is a great cold weather climb. Does anyone know how the FAist feels about this anchor?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Columbo Crack (5.11d V3)
By: Justin Edl When: Apr 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Dan, nice work. I did it from the sit on finger locks trailing a right heel hook, though I somehow missed the beta for the original problem because I fell off the top a bunch of times. I can't comment on the grade as it was a couple of years ago and I was tired at the end of the day. Also, I was under the impression that it had been done before as when I was on it (June of 2010) there was chalk all the way to the bottom. Cool problem! Thanks for posting all these videos Dan! Gets me psyche... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Mar 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Also, an ISBN would be great. Make sure it refers to an actual book that is/was in publication and actually contains the information you claim. Also, is this really the way a man such as yourself deals with situations like this? Don't badasses like you knock heads and take names, not undermine reputations like high school girls?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Mar 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Jay, I am glad I give your life purpose. What backs it up is your incessant negativity toward anything I contribute and also that people have told me on several occasions that you were trashing my reputation to anyone who would listen. I have never met you and the only communication I had with you before you turned into an asshole toward me was me trying to get you, one of the people whose climbing I greatly respected, try some of my boulders. Your overall behavior, not just to me but just in... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Jan 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Also, Jay, you got a reference for that Halfpenny comment or are you just being your usual contrary self, making up facts in order to paint the situation what you want it to be? You regularly go out of your way to tinker with my life in a negative way, so without some kind of reference to back up that statement, I am just going to chock it up to complete BS. I imagine if Halfpenny did that, Rob would have used that fact to defend himself. Given that I would put his knowledge of the area again... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Jan 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Right. And if you two don't get in line....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
By: Justin Edl When: Nov 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Rob, when you named this rock Limbo Rock and posted a new and redundant area for it, is the first time I ever heard of this referred to as Limbo Rock. Your assertion that Limbo is the accepted name is flat out wrong. You and your crew might refer to it as such, but that hardly makes it its accepted name honored by years of use. I find it interesting that you would make such an assertion considering there are folks like me roaming around up at Vedauwoo MANY days every year who know MANY of the... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Remote Control (5.12b)
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This route now has an anchor, on top and to the climber's left. This is an excellent route that should get done more often.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and...
By: Justin Edl When: Aug 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: BTW, responding to the e-mail years after the fact, and then claiming that you adequately followed up...it's the kind of stuff I am talking about. I hereby nominate you for Congress.


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>