Contributed Photos |
| Photo |
Caption |
Location |
Great Image |
Date |
| I'm not sure what all of the lines are.Looking at a guidebook topo, the original "natural line" is about 10 feet right of B in a corner system and is 5.7. (Option 1 in description?)I believe | CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7) | | Jun 19, 2009 |
| Made in the Shade. The bolts are very closely spaced, so it is good for a beginning leader. | CO : Golden : ... : Made In The Shade (5.9-) | | Nov 5, 2008 |
| Picture shows the top of the flake and P3 belay along with the route continuing up the right facing corner. I combined P2 and P3 with a 60m rope and belayed from where the photo is taken (no worse th | CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Kor's Flake (5.7) | | Sep 17, 2008 |
| The eye bolt at the end of P2. It also has 2 bolts with chains and rap rings above it. | CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rewritten (5.7) | | Sep 5, 2008 |
| Trail up to Batman Rock and Pinnacle. | CO : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle | | Aug 12, 2008 |
| The route for Summer Breeze. (some pictures show people taking the crack to the right of the pine tree, so maybe I am wrong about taking the left one) Also, we belayed where the guy is standing rat | CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Summer Breeze (5.7) | | Aug 12, 2008 |
| The start of Luminosity. It has an interesting start for a sport climb. I basically climbed to the first bolt like a chimney. | CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Luminosity (5.9) | | Aug 10, 2008 |
| This is the V-notch exit from the belay. It is easy (although I would call it more than 5.0) and saves the crack finish for Empor. | CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : North Face Center (5.7) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
Contributed Comments |
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun line... I did the 5.8 finish and was disappointed to see the graffiti there! Why would anyone think it is OK to write "no" with an arrow on the rock?!
I was worried at first that the only reason someone would deface the rock like that was that there was some sort of death block ready to come loose and kill climbers. I found the climbing to be normal 5.8 climbing with nothing particularly loose and decent protection. There is no excuse for the graffiti on the 5.8 finish!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Rock One : Rock One Route (5.4)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route after seeing it listed on Neptune's "favorites." I figured it would be an easy romp to go on with a friend, but that it would be pretty fun if it made the favorites list....
Normally I don't like to trash a route, but this is by far the worst route I have ever been on at Lumpy, and quite possibly in Colorado. The approach is annoying... the faint use trail is overgrown and hard to follow. Now I don't mind taking a bad trail when doing some alpine stuff, but to get directly a... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Dark Days (5.8-)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this climb??
On the left side of Left Hand is Kiss the Barney Stone/Gilded Lily. On the right side is T-Rect followed by Triceratops. There is one line bolted in between.. so I did that line thinking it was Dark Days. The description "The farthest line of bolts on the Left Hand Rock." isn't helpful since T-Rect and Triceratops were added after the description.
Anyway, I'm pretty sure the line I did was not Dark Days because it felt about 5.1 or 5.2 and certainly not 5.8. I'm assumi... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommend ignoring the comments to rap off after the hand crack! Pulling the fist crack bulge into the offwidth/chimney section was super fun and well worth doing (I thought it was the crux of the whole climb, but well protected with a #4 BD C4). I continued on P2 past the bulge on to the nice belay ledge up on the left. Done that way P1 and P2 are both almost 60 m and full of fun climbing, and both have comfortable belay ledges (belaying by the horn at the top of the hand crac... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb is interesting, but like lots of crowded sports lines, I kept asking myself "is this on?" Leading it, my left arm was never more than and inch or two right of the vertical line created by bolts, but depending on what you grab with your right, the difficulty can greatly vary.
On lead I was stemmed to make the second bolt clip (pretty much right under the bolt), and then without taking a step, but just by shifting my weight on to the hold my right foot was on, I could reach the arete. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Direct (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.
The descent wasn't horrible to the west, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Anomaly : East Face/Anomaly (5.0)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this along with Amoeboid and The Royal Arch.... This one was the least pleasant. Perhaps the climbing wasn't any harder than 5.0, but there was so much moss and lichen on the rock.
If you do this, definitely continue on Amoeboid. The hike down the south side is a bit of a bushwack, so you may as well do both....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Mission To Mars (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For pro: I place 2 small nuts (somewhere in the #3-#7 range) and then protected the last move before the first bolt with a 0.4 BD cam. I tried to not touch the tree, but it was pretty unnatural to not lean out when placing the first piece of gear. If the tree weren't there it wouldn't be much harder, but it is a bit contrived to find some body position that doesn't touch it...
I would say the last move to get to the first bolt was the hardest move before the roof, and was compara... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the description of the last pitch to be very confusing, so I looked it up in a guidebook and posted a picture. (We climbed it not sure what the grade was of the variation we did). I could not find all the variations listed. (namely, line A seems natural, but I didn't see it on the topo)
The line we attempted (B to D in my picture, option 2 in the description, I believe) is listed as 5.9. The flake felt about 5.9 to me, but the ass crack felt harder... maybe because I suck at fist ja... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt much easier to me than YBL (5.6) next to it... the hand crack is perfect. Excellent hand and foot jams and everything is so secure. If there were 5 pitches of this, it would be my favorite Eldo climb. Doing it in one pitch felt like the way to go. One long sling on my first pitch of the hand crack and there wasn't any rope drag. The first pitch can easily be protected with smaller gear to save your hand sized cams (#1 and #2 BD) for the crack.
The approach and the loo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fifth bolt on this route is missing its hanger and nut. It is reasonably easy there so it isn't a bad lead without it, but be warned if this is near your limit.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm going to disagree with the previous posters. I liked the first bolt! Thank you Kirk for putting it there. It may not be "necessary" if you don't fall, but the second bolt would be fairly far off the ground.
The climb is mostly 5.8-5.9 with one move near the top that makes it a bit more challenging. The last move is easier if you are taller.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but fun. It is easier than Crack Corner (the other trad climb just to the left of it) in my opinion.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Pillar (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left.
I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you... more >>
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