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Rewritten


Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,780
Total Points: 174
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Julius Beres been climbing?










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All 2214 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 69 | Posts 261 | Stars 960 | Ratings 905
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: 9+?? Only if you don't do the second pitch. The second pitch is hard and steep. There are big jugs, but long reaches. I would say it is harder than Hot Stuff, Recovery, Little Kitten, Foxy, etc. which are all near by and rated harder. I think the consensus rating here comes from people skipping pitch 2... maybe I'm wrong. The guidebook calls this 5.10b, and I still think it is harder than several 10b's at the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: I went up to Bihedral last weekend and there was a sign saying Bitty Buttress, Blob Rock, and Security Risk are all now open.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: I tried this today at the end of the day thinking it wouldn't be too hard. I don't think many people climb this at all since holds were breaking and lots of large flakes could easily be pulled off. After the last bolt to the roof, the reach to the crack is really long and you are on questionable edges that might easily break. I found it very challenging to get a cam in with my reach (granted, I am shorter than most). Once you do get a hand jam in, it is very solid, but all the feet are crap,... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Show Nuff Wall : Trad Intent (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Two things.... One it seems easier to clip the anchors for Manifest rather than No Fruit. (I clipped No Fruit, but the move left to clip the anchors is definitely harder than 5.6, going right looked like easy 5.5 face climbing for the Manifest anchors).

I also would say the route is harder than 5.6 for the start alone. I think the start is a solid 5.7. The crack itself is easy with really good jams, maybe 5.5-5.6, but the start and the end if you try to clip the No Fruit anchors makes the c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon
By: Julius Beres When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: 15 minute hike?? Either I am making the trail much harder or you guys are hiking studs... I would say more like 30 to 45 minutes (depending if there is snow on the ground). The "right" way to go isn't obvious, so if it is your first time there, expect it to take longer.

It was a 10-15 minute hike in from Boulder Falls before that way was closed.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: Well, since someone just posted that a 70m won't make it, I figured I will add some more info. I just led it in one pitch, and there is no way to TR it with a 70m and the rope going through the draws, so I belayed from the top. I then rapped the cleaned route. I clipped into the second bolt while undoing the knots in the end and seeing how far it would go down. It almost reached the ground and I could grab a good hand hold and make the last step down. Also, if you extend your rap device wit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: "Summitpost makes it sound like the second set of bolts should be slightly left from the initial rap. Did we miss something? are there 2 (or more) sets of bolts on that face? Thanks."

Jamie, you definitely missed something. I did this about a month ago and it was a straightforward rap. From the top go straight down. I had a 70 m rope and used a little over half (maybe 20 m), and found 2 bolts just a little left of the rap line at the top of the slab section. From those two bolts you can rap... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 13, 2009

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Comments: This was a fun line... I did the 5.8 finish and was disappointed to see the graffiti there! Why would anyone think it is OK to write "no" with an arrow on the rock?!

I was worried at first that the only reason someone would deface the rock like that was that there was some sort of death block ready to come loose and kill climbers. I found the climbing to be normal 5.8 climbing with nothing particularly loose and decent protection. There is no excuse for the graffiti on the 5.8 finish!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Rock One : Rock One Route (5.4)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: I did this route after seeing it listed on Neptune's "favorites." I figured it would be an easy romp to go on with a friend, but that it would be pretty fun if it made the favorites list....

Normally I don't like to trash a route, but this is by far the worst route I have ever been on at Lumpy, and quite possibly in Colorado. The approach is annoying... the faint use trail is overgrown and hard to follow. Now I don't mind taking a bad trail when doing some alpine stuff, but to get directly a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Dark Days (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 18, 2009

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Comments: Where is this climb??

On the left side of Left Hand is Kiss the Barney Stone/Gilded Lily. On the right side is T-Rect followed by Triceratops. There is one line bolted in between.. so I did that line thinking it was Dark Days. The description "The farthest line of bolts on the Left Hand Rock." isn't helpful since T-Rect and Triceratops were added after the description.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure the line I did was not Dark Days because it felt about 5.1 or 5.2 and certainly not 5.8. I'm assumi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I highly recommend ignoring the comments to rap off after the hand crack! Pulling the fist crack bulge into the offwidth/chimney section was super fun and well worth doing (I thought it was the crux of the whole climb, but well protected with a #4 BD C4). I continued on P2 past the bulge on to the nice belay ledge up on the left. Done that way P1 and P2 are both almost 60 m and full of fun climbing, and both have comfortable belay ledges (belaying by the horn at the top of the hand crac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: The climb is interesting, but like lots of crowded sports lines, I kept asking myself "is this on?" Leading it, my left arm was never more than and inch or two right of the vertical line created by bolts, but depending on what you grab with your right, the difficulty can greatly vary.

On lead I was stemmed to make the second bolt clip (pretty much right under the bolt), and then without taking a step, but just by shifting my weight on to the hold my right foot was on, I could reach the arete. ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Direct (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.

The descent wasn't horrible to the west, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Anomaly : East Face/Anomaly (5.0)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: I did this along with Amoeboid and The Royal Arch.... This one was the least pleasant. Perhaps the climbing wasn't any harder than 5.0, but there was so much moss and lichen on the rock.

If you do this, definitely continue on Amoeboid. The hike down the south side is a bit of a bushwack, so you may as well do both....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Mission To Mars (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: For pro: I place 2 small nuts (somewhere in the #3-#7 range) and then protected the last move before the first bolt with a 0.4 BD cam. I tried to not touch the tree, but it was pretty unnatural to not lean out when placing the first piece of gear. If the tree weren't there it wouldn't be much harder, but it is a bit contrived to find some body position that doesn't touch it...

I would say the last move to get to the first bolt was the hardest move before the roof, and was compara... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: I found the description of the last pitch to be very confusing, so I looked it up in a guidebook and posted a picture. (We climbed it not sure what the grade was of the variation we did). I could not find all the variations listed. (namely, line A seems natural, but I didn't see it on the topo)

The line we attempted (B to D in my picture, option 2 in the description, I believe) is listed as 5.9. The flake felt about 5.9 to me, but the ass crack felt harder... maybe because I suck at fist ja... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: This felt much easier to me than YBL (5.6) next to it... the hand crack is perfect. Excellent hand and foot jams and everything is so secure. If there were 5 pitches of this, it would be my favorite Eldo climb. Doing it in one pitch felt like the way to go. One long sling on my first pitch of the hand crack and there wasn't any rope drag. The first pitch can easily be protected with smaller gear to save your hand sized cams (#1 and #2 BD) for the crack.

The approach and the loo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 6, 2009

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Comments: The fifth bolt on this route is missing its hanger and nut. It is reasonably easy there so it isn't a bad lead without it, but be warned if this is near your limit.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I'm going to disagree with the previous posters. I liked the first bolt! Thank you Kirk for putting it there. It may not be "necessary" if you don't fall, but the second bolt would be fairly far off the ground.

The climb is mostly 5.8-5.9 with one move near the top that makes it a bit more challenging. The last move is easier if you are taller.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: Short but fun. It is easier than Crack Corner (the other trad climb just to the left of it) in my opinion.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Pillar (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left.

I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: Wow, all the comments here really scared me. Other sites had this listed as a 5.8R. I did this today and didn't think it was harder than other 5.7s in the area. In fact, aside from the original grunt to get off the ground, this one did not seem bad at all.

I did bring a #6 BD Cam and walked it up most of the flake pitch (combined pitch 2 and 3). With a number 6 cam it isn't run out at all. Aside from the walked cam, I left a #5 a bit lower down and placed a few more pieces in t... more >>


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