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Rewritten


Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: Dec 2, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,930
Total Points: 174
Last Year: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Julius Beres been climbing?










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All 2243 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 261 | Stars 977 | Ratings 917
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: "Summitpost makes it sound like the second set of bolts should be slightly left from the initial rap. Did we miss something? are there 2 (or more) sets of bolts on that face? Thanks."

Jamie, you definitely missed something. I did this about a month ago and it was a straightforward rap. From the top go straight down. I had a 70 m rope and used a little over half (maybe 20 m), and found 2 bolts just a little left of the rap line at the top of the slab section. From those two bolts you can rap... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 13, 2009

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Comments: This was a fun line... I did the 5.8 finish and was disappointed to see the graffiti there! Why would anyone think it is OK to write "no" with an arrow on the rock?!

I was worried at first that the only reason someone would deface the rock like that was that there was some sort of death block ready to come loose and kill climbers. I found the climbing to be normal 5.8 climbing with nothing particularly loose and decent protection. There is no excuse for the graffiti on the 5.8 finish!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Rock One : Rock One Route (5.4)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: I did this route after seeing it listed on Neptune's "favorites." I figured it would be an easy romp to go on with a friend, but that it would be pretty fun if it made the favorites list....

Normally I don't like to trash a route, but this is by far the worst route I have ever been on at Lumpy, and quite possibly in Colorado. The approach is annoying... the faint use trail is overgrown and hard to follow. Now I don't mind taking a bad trail when doing some alpine stuff, but to get directly a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Dark Days (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 18, 2009

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Comments: Where is this climb??

On the left side of Left Hand is Kiss the Barney Stone/Gilded Lily. On the right side is T-Rect followed by Triceratops. There is one line bolted in between.. so I did that line thinking it was Dark Days. The description "The farthest line of bolts on the Left Hand Rock." isn't helpful since T-Rect and Triceratops were added after the description.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure the line I did was not Dark Days because it felt about 5.1 or 5.2 and certainly not 5.8. I'm assumi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I highly recommend ignoring the comments to rap off after the hand crack! Pulling the fist crack bulge into the offwidth/chimney section was super fun and well worth doing (I thought it was the crux of the whole climb, but well protected with a #4 BD C4). I continued on P2 past the bulge on to the nice belay ledge up on the left. Done that way P1 and P2 are both almost 60 m and full of fun climbing, and both have comfortable belay ledges (belaying by the horn at the top of the hand crac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: The climb is interesting, but like lots of crowded sports lines, I kept asking myself "is this on?" Leading it, my left arm was never more than and inch or two right of the vertical line created by bolts, but depending on what you grab with your right, the difficulty can greatly vary.

On lead I was stemmed to make the second bolt clip (pretty much right under the bolt), and then without taking a step, but just by shifting my weight on to the hold my right foot was on, I could reach the arete. ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Direct (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 24, 2009

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Comments: I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.

The descent wasn't horrible to the west, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Anomaly : East Face/Anomaly (5.0)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 22, 2009

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Comments: I did this along with Amoeboid and The Royal Arch.... This one was the least pleasant. Perhaps the climbing wasn't any harder than 5.0, but there was so much moss and lichen on the rock.

If you do this, definitely continue on Amoeboid. The hike down the south side is a bit of a bushwack, so you may as well do both....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Mission To Mars (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: For pro: I place 2 small nuts (somewhere in the #3-#7 range) and then protected the last move before the first bolt with a 0.4 BD cam. I tried to not touch the tree, but it was pretty unnatural to not lean out when placing the first piece of gear. If the tree weren't there it wouldn't be much harder, but it is a bit contrived to find some body position that doesn't touch it...

I would say the last move to get to the first bolt was the hardest move before the roof, and was compara... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: I found the description of the last pitch to be very confusing, so I looked it up in a guidebook and posted a picture. (We climbed it not sure what the grade was of the variation we did). I could not find all the variations listed. (namely, line A seems natural, but I didn't see it on the topo)

The line we attempted (B to D in my picture, option 2 in the description, I believe) is listed as 5.9. The flake felt about 5.9 to me, but the ass crack felt harder... maybe because I suck at fist ja... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 12, 2009

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Comments: This felt much easier to me than YBL (5.6) next to it... the hand crack is perfect. Excellent hand and foot jams and everything is so secure. If there were 5 pitches of this, it would be my favorite Eldo climb. Doing it in one pitch felt like the way to go. One long sling on my first pitch of the hand crack and there wasn't any rope drag. The first pitch can easily be protected with smaller gear to save your hand sized cams (#1 and #2 BD) for the crack.

The approach and the loo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Left Hand Rock : Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 6, 2009

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Comments: The fifth bolt on this route is missing its hanger and nut. It is reasonably easy there so it isn't a bad lead without it, but be warned if this is near your limit.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Beasto (5.10-)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 5, 2009

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Comments: I was surprised at how much fun this route was.... The start is a pumpy little jump, but then the nature of the climb changes and it goes up a long way on interesting moves.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I'm going to disagree with the previous posters. I liked the first bolt! Thank you Kirk for putting it there. It may not be "necessary" if you don't fall, but the second bolt would be fairly far off the ground.

The climb is mostly 5.8-5.9 with one move near the top that makes it a bit more challenging. The last move is easier if you are taller.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: Short but fun. It is easier than Crack Corner (the other trad climb just to the left of it) in my opinion.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Isle of the Dead (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Pillar (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left.

I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: Wow, all the comments here really scared me. Other sites had this listed as a 5.8R. I did this today and didn't think it was harder than other 5.7s in the area. In fact, aside from the original grunt to get off the ground, this one did not seem bad at all.

I did bring a #6 BD Cam and walked it up most of the flake pitch (combined pitch 2 and 3). With a number 6 cam it isn't run out at all. Aside from the walked cam, I left a #5 a bit lower down and placed a few more pieces in t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Nick Of Time (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: I would say the bulge is maybe 5.6, but it is only one move and the rest is easy and fun with big holds and lots of pro placements.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Before The Deluge (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: Well protected but still rather dirty. It might clean up and be a decent balance climb. We did this right after 2 days of rain and keeping the mud off your shoes was a challenge and for that reason I really didn't enjoy it. I was thinking of rating it a "bomb" but perhaps it would be more enjoyable if it had been dry for the last couple of days.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Wholly Holey (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: I thought the reach for the "good jug" over the roof was rather tough. I kind of did it a bit recklessly based on the description looking for a jug and pumped myself out. I found it to be a long reach, and I would say as hard as some of the 5.9/5.10a roofs in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps it is easier for taller climbers, but I had to use a marginal hold before I could reach the jug. The rest of the route isn't particularly interesting or difficult. A one move wonder.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Pack 'o Bobs (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: One more comment. The "beta" photo that goes along with this has the caption "# 7 in the photo"... BUT this phote appears for several climbs. Number 7 is the 5.9 "This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim". I actually did that first thinking it would be an easy 7 warm up and was a bit surprised at the stiff climbing for what I thought was 5.7 grade... however, this route wasn't substantially easier. I would say if the other one is a 5.9, this one is more like 5.8.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Pack 'o Bobs (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 13, 2008

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Comments: Like the previous poster, I placed a cam before the first bolt. Once I pulled the move it wasn't hard, but this rock is really polished. Compared to the Overhang area and climbs in Boulder Canyon, the polished rocks make this feel much harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: I just tried this climb for the first time yesterday and it was great.

A few comments about the first pitch. There wasn't any "loose" rock in the sense of rocks just lying on edges ready to fall off, but most of the rock sounded very hollow. Many times I touched flakes that were fairly loose (large flakes the size of dinner plates). Someone could easily pull one of those off.
That being said, even avoiding the loose flakes there were plenty of big holds and the climbing stayed mostly i... more >>


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