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Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: 21 mins ago
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Julius Beres
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Total Points: 177
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2353 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 263 | Stars 1032 | Ratings 967
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Jamcrack Spire : Southeast Chimney (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Nov 19, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun route that is totally different from most east face routes. Canyoneers will love this route.

A couple of notes:

The start is easily identified by the two fallen trees in the description. I would not describe it as "far left" however, since there is still plenty of rock off to the left. When approaching from the Maiden trail, keep going straight up to the rock (surprisingly good trail/water run off trail, so not much bushwhacking). When you get to the rock go left until the fi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: FYI, both the Hand and Finger east faces are indefinitely closed. From the OS page:
"Mallory and Harmon Caves closed year-round, effective September 21, 2010
Concerns about a national epidemic of white-nosed syndrome, which has led to massive die-offs among bats has led OSMP to close Mallory and Harmon Caves year-round to protect Townsend's Big-eared bats. White-nosed syndrome is a fungal disease that has decimated bat populations in the East. The U.S. Forest Service recently closed all caves o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Even by Flatiron standards, I thought the first pitch was run out enough to warrant at least an R rating. I was practically done with the pitch before getting in any pro. The hardest move is right off the deck and then it gets easier, but it has more lichen than most, and hence it is a bit unnerving to be that high without gear. The rest of the climb was mellow, although the route description wasn't very helpful after P2.... I just went up belaying at trees until I hit the final pitch, which w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/S Goose Egg (5.2)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: Maybe I was off route as well, but there is no way this thing is 5.2. It felt harder than Seal Rock (5.4) or even some of the 5.5 routes in the Flatirons.

The top 1/3 was fun scrambling on easy, good rock that was perhaps 5.0, but the bottom 1/3 was dirty, loose, and insecure. I down climbed 10-15 feet twice looking for easier ways to go after getting to a section I did not want to solo. It wasn't particularly fun either. The South Ramp is a much better solo in my opinion.

Maybe there is... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Acts of Contrition (5.9+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Another Infirmary climb with a stupid first bolt. If you are tall, there is a great stance, but if you are not, you can easily deck... the bolt could easily be 6 inches lower and the climb would be much better and safer.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Remission (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: I didn't mind the runout at the top as much, but this, like most of the other routes in the area, has a stupid high first bolt, and the move getting to it isn't trivial for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Tower (5.9)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: The hanger and nut from one of the higher up bolts is sitting at the base of this climb. Even without the hanger, the climb is safe (it is at an easy part)... someone with a wrench may want to put it back though (or was it removed for a reason?).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Julius Beres When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Both this climb and its neighbor to the left are fun 5.10+ face climbing with one ridiculous reach each. I don't think either one is 5.11- if you are short. At 5'8", I found both to be much harder than other 11+ climbs in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Cut Loose (5.11-)
By: Julius Beres When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: I think this is the worst route at the cliff... maybe it is my being short bias, but it isn't any fun. Boring 5.7 climbing to the roof followed by a ridiculous reach. If you can get the jug, it is one interesting 10+ move to pull over the roof, followed by more boring climbing.

I'm way too short to reach the jug and was trying to bump up on crap, but the rope kept getting in my way. Either you don't clip the bolt above the roof and risk a ledge fall, or the rope makes in very hard to get y... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun, easy way to get to the top of a desert tower, but the climb is very short considering the approach. The mantle and the 10 feet of 5.7 variation crack on p2 is about the only thing beyond low 5th class scrambling.

I also do not understand the bolt on the last pitch. It is too high to protect the mantle, so you have to do the mantle unprotected. However, once you stand up on the mantle ledge so that you can clip the bolt, you can easily get in a cam about 6 inches above (and mor... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : 20th Century Man (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: For some reason the new guidebook calls this 5.10d. I would say it is an easy 10a... probably easier than several of the 9s at Shelf. I'm not sure why the new guide upped the rating (the old one had it at 10a). It is a fun climb whatever the rating may be.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Dags in Beanland (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 29, 2010

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Comments: We did this today and hearing about the bad descent, we took two ropes and enough webbing to reinforce the rap anchors. We went by several of the rap anchors and they are in bad shape (very UV worn webbing). In the end we decided to walk off, so whoever raps the wall next might want to consider bringing plenty of extra webbing along.

As for the walk off, it isn't quite as bad as people make out out to be provided you do not leave anything at the base! We climbed with our packs and then walke... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: What is the story with access to Mickey Mouse Wall?

According to the description posted on MP:
"At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track."

We hiked up that way and at the single track, there is a sign that says "climber access trail only, dead end"
Further up the trail, just before you get to the railroad tracks, there is another large sign saying "Raptor Nesting Closure. Area be... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: The 6 ft of down climbing was probably harder than anything on the Spiral Route. Also, there was loose rock, so holds might break. Although the rest of the approach is 4th class or easier, I would say it is a good idea to rope up for this if you are going to rope up for any part of the climb....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: I think the bolts on this route are spaced for a tall person. I found I would climb to a bolt, clip it, and have some very easy climbing. Then there would be a harder move right before the next bolt, so all the potential falls were long, and some had ledge fall potential.

The bolt at the crux is a very long reach. If you wait to clip it until after you do the move, then you have the potential of breaking your ankles if you blow the crux.

I enjoyed the climb, maybe if I were 5'10" or talle... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: First, I would say that a standard rack is sufficient for this climb. I did not bring a #4 and thought it wasn't needed. You could place it on P5 but there is ample smaller pro placements at the same place, so don't bother lugging it up there.

I also did not think this was runout at all. On P1 you can place pro in the undercling on the slab traverse. The rest all protects well.

Route finding was also not difficult following the description here. The only non-obvious pitch was P3:
"P... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Gina's Surprise (5.5 X)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: There is absolutely no way the first pitch on this climb should be considered X. I would say it isn't even R. Perhaps a PG13 rating because the pro isn't obvious, but I got 6 pieces of bomber pro in, and I would be willing to take a fall on any of those pieces. 3 were very good slung horns. In addition, I got a bomber small nut in at the start, a #1 BD cam a little bit above on the left, and one more C3 small cam. I continued all the way to the top... the 3rd pitch was a bit run out, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: Holy carrying extra weight, Robin! Leave your large cams at home!

So, I'm a total wuss. I read the descriptions here and saw so many people saying you NEED a #4 or #5 cam for the Ruper crack... some said you need 2. And I'm the biggest coward ever, so not knowing what to expect, I lugged one #4 and one #5 up there along with a large hex. At the top of the extremely well protected crack, I still had all the big pro dangling from my harness. In fact, I did not place a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Lost Porch : Southeast Ridge (5.0)
By: Julius Beres When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: For people free soloing:
"Descent - Scramble down the Northwest ridge to the base (class 4)."

I would say the descent is harder than any move on the actual climb. My partner ended up leaving a sling to rap. We went down what I would describe more as the northwest gully rather than a ridge. Perhaps we didn't find the ridge, but I could see nothing that matched that description. The hand holds were all decent and there were good stems, but I would call it a 5.0 down climb, possibly harder, de... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead
By: Julius Beres When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Currently there is only a torn sling of webbing at the top. If you want to rap, you should bring a long piece of webbing (20 ft?) to replace torn webbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Ice Nine (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: "After enjoying a seat on a pinnacle, you do a fun, rightwards hand traverse and pull up into a left-facing corner that you follow to the end. The last twenty feet of the corner protect beautifully on hand-size and smaller pieces, but will feel a little tough if 5.6 is your limit."

I found the description to be misleading. I did the original 5.7 start which was OK, but a little scary due to loose rocks. The final left-facing corner is very easy and protects well.... I don't think a 5.6 leader... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : East Face/Challenger (5.4 R)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: I went the way Aaron describes. The move left into the splitter crack is definitely delicate, but it isn't 5.7/8. I didn't bother placing pro until the crack, and I wouldn't make a 5.8 move without gear ;) I would say 5.6 at most, if that. No worse than some of the moves on the first pitch of East Face Direct of the 1st.

We belayed by the tree to the right of the end of the crack. I recommend not going all the way right to the tree. There is a little ledge at the top of the split... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: 9+?? Only if you don't do the second pitch. The second pitch is hard and steep. There are big jugs, but long reaches. I would say it is harder than Hot Stuff, Recovery, Little Kitten, Foxy, etc. which are all near by and rated harder. I think the consensus rating here comes from people skipping pitch 2... maybe I'm wrong. The guidebook calls this 5.10b, and I still think it is harder than several 10b's at the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: I went up to Bihedral last weekend and there was a sign saying Bitty Buttress, Blob Rock, and Security Risk are all now open.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Addict's Wall : Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: I tried this today at the end of the day thinking it wouldn't be too hard. I don't think many people climb this at all since holds were breaking and lots of large flakes could easily be pulled off. After the last bolt to the roof, the reach to the crack is really long and you are on questionable edges that might easily break. I found it very challenging to get a cam in with my reach (granted, I am shorter than most). Once you do get a hand jam in, it is very solid, but all the feet are crap,... more >>


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