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Rewritten


Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Julius Beres


Point Rank: # 2,850
Total Points: 174
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Julius Beres been climbing?










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All 2232 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 261 | Stars 970 | Ratings 913
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 29, 2008

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Comments: I agree with the previous comments. The crux is 10 feet or so below the flake. I would say the flake is 5.6 at most. 10 feet below there are some very reachy moves on just friction footholds (maybe if you are tall the flake is the crux...). It is very well protected though and a fun but short climb.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : CG's Naked Fun Time (5.10b)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 23, 2008

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Comments: Someone should fix the anchor at the top of this route!

If I had rope or webbing with me, I would have done it, but we left due to rain.

At the top, there are 2 bolts with rap rings that look solid. I imagine someone wanted to avoid having the rope go over the edge, so they tied rope (7mm rope in loops I think) to the bolts and extended it to two more rap rings over the edge. The problem:

They tied the rope in a loop going through both bolts and the rap rings so it forms a triangle. That g... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Summer Breeze (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 12, 2008

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Comments: Instead of belaying by the pine tree, we belayed above the hand crack and after the traverse to the left. It seems like a more comfortable position plus it gives you a few more feet of rope to run it out until the summit. The picture posted here shows a guy climbing the crack above and to the right of the tree. I went straight up the hand crack to the left of the tree which is the way I read the guide. The crack to the right looked easier by didn't take pro as well. I would say that the cra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : The Luminosity (5.9)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 11, 2008

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Comments: This is a fun route with big, positive hand holds for the entire thing. It is a sequence of interesting moves shifting your weight around. I would say there isn't a single move harder than 5.8, but it is sustained throughout.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7) : Photo
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: Just to be clear, the picture is the start of Hiatus, not White Whale (that is further left).


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Startled (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: The rating on this is way off. 10a?! I went there last night and lead it without knowing the rating. It took me a while to find it on here because I was searching for a 5.8. This one is easier than X It which is the 9 next to it (and even that is a one move climb to perhaps make it a 9)

Maybe I bypassed the crux as the other comment suggested... but I seemed to follow the bolts and not using available holds is a bit contrived.

None the less it is a fun climb. You should not be intimidated... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: I actually thought this was a fun chimney. I lead it today as the first pitch of Swanson's Arete and I would say is was no harder than the rest of the route which goes at 5.5. There is some loose rock, but not too much and it does take pro well (there are also two solid looking pitons along the way and 2 sets of bolts for rappels along with plenty of cracks).

That being said I only gave it one star because of the risk factor. DO NOT climb this route if anyone is rappelling from above. The c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 11, 2008

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Comments: This climb is really fun for the grade. It also stays in the shade longer than most of the climbs on the face, so it was a good climb to do in the late morning as the rest of the face was getting really hot.

I did both pitches in one with a 60m rope and some rope to spare. There was a bit of rope drag (I really needed two longer slings) but it was ok.

A great place to take gym climber to practice some bomber hand jams on the second pitch.

Nice easy walk off from the top (I've done Wind Ri... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: I agree with Steve Wood's comment about the committing move for someone 5'8" or shorter.

I did the "crux" part of the route around the first bolt and then cruised past the next two bolts to the "ledge" (large foot hold, big hands, comfortable position) below the pin. I'm 5'8" and I could not clip the pin from that ledge nor could I reach the big hold just next to the pin. I made the mistake of going left and peeled... I went all the way down, stopping about 5 feet off the ground (at the poin... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: Just don't clip that bolt before making the move. I'm a shorter climber and had no shot of making that clip until after making the move (the last bolt isn't much further down, so the fall wouldn't be bad). It is a rather committing, balance move, but aside from that the rest of the climb is rather mellow. After making the step, I wouldn't say it was actually harder than 5.8, but mentally it might seem harder since you are making a high step onto a small foothold without very good hands.

I wo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.

Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Crack Corner (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Dan-D-Line (5.6 R)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7).


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Snow Day Sunday! Cookie Jar Competition at Movement Boulder, COColoradoJulius BeresApr 28, 2014
Gear accidentally exchanged on Generic CrackLost and FoundJulius BeresMar 21, 2014
re: Tying into rope through carabinerGeneral ClimbingJulius BeresOct 19, 2012
re: Tying into rope through carabinerGeneral ClimbingJulius BeresOct 19, 2012
re: CAM-EXTRACTORClimbing Gear DiscussionJulius BeresOct 18, 2012
re: CAM-EXTRACTORClimbing Gear DiscussionJulius BeresOct 18, 2012
re: CAM-EXTRACTORClimbing Gear DiscussionJulius BeresOct 17, 2012
re: if you could climb a different place each monthGeneral ClimbingJulius BeresOct 16, 2012
re: I dropped my grigri...General ClimbingJulius BeresOct 15, 2012
re: Lumpy RidgeColoradoJulius BeresOct 13, 2012
re: carrying rope 2Climbing Gear DiscussionJulius BeresOct 9, 2012
re: First In Line Etiquette Question, aka Early Ice Season ShenanigansGeneral ClimbingJulius BeresOct 8, 2012
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