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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Summer Breeze (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of belaying by the pine tree, we belayed above the hand crack and after the traverse to the left. It seems like a more comfortable position plus it gives you a few more feet of rope to run it out until the summit. The picture posted here shows a guy climbing the crack above and to the right of the tree. I went straight up the hand crack to the left of the tree which is the way I read the guide. The crack to the right looked easier by didn't take pro as well. I would say that the cra... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : The Luminosity (5.9)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route with big, positive hand holds for the entire thing. It is a sequence of interesting moves shifting your weight around. I would say there isn't a single move harder than 5.8, but it is sustained throughout.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7) : Photo
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to be clear, the picture is the start of Hiatus, not White Whale (that is further left).
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Startled (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating on this is way off. 10a?! I went there last night and lead it without knowing the rating. It took me a while to find it on here because I was searching for a 5.8. This one is easier than X It which is the 9 next to it (and even that is a one move climb to perhaps make it a 9)
Maybe I bypassed the crux as the other comment suggested... but I seemed to follow the bolts and not using available holds is a bit contrived.
None the less it is a fun climb. You should not be intimidated... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually thought this was a fun chimney. I lead it today as the first pitch of Swanson's Arete and I would say is was no harder than the rest of the route which goes at 5.5. There is some loose rock, but not too much and it does take pro well (there are also two solid looking pitons along the way and 2 sets of bolts for rappels along with plenty of cracks).
That being said I only gave it one star because of the risk factor. DO NOT climb this route if anyone is rappelling from above. The c... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is really fun for the grade. It also stays in the shade longer than most of the climbs on the face, so it was a good climb to do in the late morning as the rest of the face was getting really hot.
I did both pitches in one with a 60m rope and some rope to spare. There was a bit of rope drag (I really needed two longer slings) but it was ok.
A great place to take gym climber to practice some bomber hand jams on the second pitch.
Nice easy walk off from the top (I've done Wind Ri... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Steve Wood's comment about the committing move for someone 5'8" or shorter.
I did the "crux" part of the route around the first bolt and then cruised past the next two bolts to the "ledge" (large foot hold, big hands, comfortable position) below the pin. I'm 5'8" and I could not clip the pin from that ledge nor could I reach the big hold just next to the pin. I made the mistake of going left and peeled... I went all the way down, stopping about 5 feet off the ground (at the poin... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just don't clip that bolt before making the move. I'm a shorter climber and had no shot of making that clip until after making the move (the last bolt isn't much further down, so the fall wouldn't be bad). It is a rather committing, balance move, but aside from that the rest of the climb is rather mellow. After making the step, I wouldn't say it was actually harder than 5.8, but mentally it might seem harder since you are making a high step onto a small foothold without very good hands.
I wo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I made the same mistake as others here and went to Mine Hole Crag while looking for lower Animal World.
Lower Animal World is pretty much directly above and to the right of Boulderado. We initially went too far up and were traversing above Lower Animal World... To get to that crag, take the right just as you get to the top of Boulderado (I thought that right was just for the getting to the anchors of Boulderado and continued on...) Now that I know the way, it is only a 5 minute walk... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Crack Corner (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Dan-D-Line (5.6 R)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7).
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