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Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Julian Smith When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey; Thanks for the schoolin'. Big horn sheep sound a lot better than the big cats I was imagining. Cheers!
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Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Julian Smith When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Question about critters in Oak Creek Canyon; I was coming down through the canyon (11/5/09) and noticed there were what appeared to be large pools of urine on many of the boulders on the canyon floor. Does anyone have any idea what type of animal might have done this? I don't think it was human because I am pretty sure I was the only one in the canyon that day. I was descending from Solar Slab and was a little nervous, but don't really know what kind of critter it might have been. Many... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Balance (5.8)
By: Julian Smith When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : East Ridge (5.7)
By: Julian Smith When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the input Robert. No offense taken; if you would like, please edit it the way you think the description should read and I will be happy to replace it with yours. Cheers.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones
By: Julian Smith When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit more on the marathon stuff… left the trailhead at 3:30 AM, hiked to upper South Colony Lake and had to pace around in the dark to wait for enough light to solo the direct start of the Ellingwood Arete; arrived on the summit at 7:34 AM. Down-climbed the rappel and traversed over to Crestone Peak, which is way more complicated than I gave it credit for; arrived at 9:35 AM. Descended the North Couloir, crossed over the Bears Playground, and climbed Humboldt Peak;... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5)
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the center part of Glenwood Falls on 1/9/08; the ice is in OK shape I suppose. It is a little hollow and rotten for the steep section leading up to the cave below the last pitch. Climbed the center pillar, and ran into very thin snow over rock and mud on top, so it made for an exciting exit up into the woods. Right side looked pretty thin. Well, I guess this is pretty typical fare for Glenwood Falls; enjoy!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Hidden Falls (WI4-5)
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fishing waders can be very useful for getting across the river. I rent them at Anglers Covey in Colorado Springs.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Lower Bolted Face (5.8+)
By: Julian Smith When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route may be the same as the one listed in the Stewart Green Pikes Peak topo that is named Gonna Bust Your Knuckles.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Lower Roof Route (5.9)
By: Julian Smith When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Stewart Green Pikes Peak topo shows a sport route (sans hangers) that essentially takes the same line as the Lower Roof Route; Kayro In Your Gas Tank....
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine... : The Nose (5.9+)
By: Julian Smith When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Bo and Stewart for posting the route and sharing the information; this is such a great climb. I feel like the crux is in the dihedral above the roof (i.e. 2nd pitch). Anyway, good to see that other folks may think the route's 5.9+ rating is a pretty honest grade…;-)
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The skiing above Glen Cove is in great shape now (Little Italy).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, it looks like this route is going to be OK to post. Is there a consensus then about how to describe it, as in should real directions be shared that would be helpful to a user of this site or should they remain as they are?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the clarification... I understand what you mean by "Guy" now.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Blue Condition (WI5)
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions up on Engineer Pass seem especially fat at the moment. Blue Condition is in fine shape. Of course the word is out about Gravity's Rainbow. Kennedy’s Gully looks good too, but the top of the second pitch might be a little bit thin.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glenwood Canyon is looking a little skinnier than it was this time last year. Glenwood Falls will go on the left, and probably on the right side as well, but it will be much better if it gets a little fatter. The line to the right of the main flow is missing the top pitch. The power plant is still under repair too, so the volume is way up in the river, with no signs of a freeze-up yet. As always, Hidden Falls is looking good from a distance, but getting to it may require some creativity. Cheers.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Shroud is more "in" on the left side at the moment, with a nice steep section at the bottom. However, everything seems to end in bad snow and rotten verglass over loose rock as you get towards the top. It definitely makes things a bit exciting.
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Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rockies win NLCS game 1! Yes!!!
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Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the most awesome rock climbing related news. The turning of the different climbing seasons seems to lend itself particular well to baseball, and I have listened to so many games on the way home from a day on the big stone on 850 KOA. This is the best send of the entire year… Go Rockies!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Porcelain Arete (5.9+)
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few notes:
On the approach, we started climbing up to the Porcelain Arete from directly beneath it, rather than starting on a fin that projects from the northern edge of the Painted Wall. It looked like the guide might indicate going that way, but straight up from the bottom will go (low 5th class), traversing upwards and to the left, where one can reach the gash between the Painted Wall and the Porcelain Arete. From there, continue up the gash until a way to break back over to the ledge syste... more >>
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Julian Smith When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: For anyone who is intersted, here is a link to Micheal's website.
http://www.freesoloist.com/
Gosh I hope this can somehow have a happy ending. Keep your mojo on dude!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Joshua,
I have a copy of the book "In Search Of Ice... " It is written by Joel G McWhinney of Colorado Springs, and was published in 1997. I think I bought my copy at Mtn. Chalet. The book lists his address, but I have no idea if it is any good. Drop me an e-mail and I will hook you up it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glenwood Falls is still looking a little thin up high as of the 24th. There is however a nice route to climb to the right of the main flow. Anyone else know anything about this line?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Round the Corner (WI4)
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Round the Corner is in great shape! The left side is soft, new ice, with lots of water running over it, and on the right side it is a little more brittle. Snow conditions on the approach are pretty good, but floatation was handy too. Unnamed Curtain looks to be in good form as well.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : The Crypt (WI4)
By: Julian Smith When: Nov 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Crypt was in pretty good as of 11/19/06 with lots of steep, fresh ice. Since it is still early in the season, the ice is definitely not picked out and kicked full of steps… lots of good fun. It was a beautiful day in the park with very little wind and lots of sunshine. Flotation was not necessary around the lake. Don’t be fooled into thinking that there might be ice in Deep Freeze, because we took an obligatory detour to that side of the valley before ambling over to the sunshine; ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Sentinel and Specimen Rocks : Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is a photo of the Grand Specimen. It even has a sign at the base of the rock that says so. The approach is a real grunt, as there is no obvious trail. Expect about a 1 to 2 hour uphill bushwhack. This is a very atmospheric place with lots of falcons flying about. In R&I 95 there is a good mini-guide by Stewart Green that includes the Grand Specimen, showing at least one route that goes up the center. It is called the Directissima (III 5.10c). Dan St. John and I climbed an obvious li... more >>
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