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Member Since: May 13, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 21, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has juancho been climbing?










Contributions


All 17 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 4 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : ... : Bruce Lee (V8)
By: juancho When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: “Did you post this just to put up yet another video of yourself?”

Did you post this comment just to cop an attitude yet again?

The only difference between Andy Liu and ElCapinhisass is that Andy actually sends the problems in his videos.

Oh wait, and Andy doesn’t have an attitude.

Oh… and Andy doesn’t immediately question the classic-ness of every climb he fails on.

Weak.

supertopo.com/tr/Valley-Daze/t...

Hey Andy – your clips are way inspiring.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+) : Photo
By: juancho When: Apr 19, 2011

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Comments: I can't tell if these comments are serious or not, but I'll second the notion that Sam is super nice, smokin' hot, and climbs way harder than I ever will.

I remember looking up at the Carnivore from the top of the pitch shown here. There is also a picture in the guidebook. Feet-first OW through a roof!! Doesn't look like too many cams to me. That pitch looks horrendous.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Knightshift (5.10+ PG13)
By: juancho When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: I saw those bolts right next to Crime of the century the last time i was there. Newsflash: it's OK to leave things as topropes, people.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Hermit Spires
By: juancho When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: "Whatever has been said about the Needles applies to Hermit Spire except maybe for the crowds."

Posting this level of detail on the internet is a big step to mitigating that problem.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wild Rose Buttress : Ass Pin (5.10b)
By: juancho When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: This route "Ass Pin" is squeezed in tight. The photo shows the cracks on either side of it, both of which are good routes (or variations). The bolts detract from the ambiance


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : By Hook or By Crook (5.11b PG13)
By: juancho When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: I would have loved to find a fixed stopper right there. The pro at the crux, while good, was very hard to place due to the pumpmeter redlining.

The 3rd pitch is great but the 2nd is by far the gem.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Bloody Tax Break (5.10b)
By: juancho When: May 27, 2009

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Comments: I would also call this route contrived but if that is not acceptable, how about: this route sucks./
Not recommended!!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Ellery Bowl : The Speed of Life (5.11b)
By: juancho When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: First pitch is pretty damn good in its own right. second is off the charts. So-called 5.11 move at the start is more like 5.10, the 5.11 comes toward the end- fighting the pump.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13)
By: juancho When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: Yes but it's kind of a pain. Aiding the finger crack is probably easier
I don't understand the recommendation to downlead the roof crack. You can walk off the top, there is a rap anchor up there a ways.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Shit Howdy (5.11-)
By: juancho When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: I thought this was good but not outstanding. Short and the rock is not that wonderful, but still definitely worth doing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: juancho When: Feb 12, 2009

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Comments: The crack switch and the roof at the top are killer. Memorable lead. Toprope it and it would lose a lot of the magic. Go for it..


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : 9 Lives (5.12a)
By: juancho When: Feb 12, 2009

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Comments: One of the best. Casual for little hands – pumpy for avg hands. The finish is the icing on the cake. Not cruxy but awesome.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: juancho When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Training for full-on dyno when pumpedTraining ForumjuanchoOct 13, 2012
re: Training for full-on dyno when pumpedTraining ForumjuanchoOct 12, 2012
Training for full-on dyno when pumpedTraining ForumjuanchoOct 10, 2012
re: Who's The Man?Community ForumjuanchoJul 12, 2011