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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 620
Total Points: 1,062
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 1
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 801 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 222 | Posts 434 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: For me, the move just off the ground is just beyond my reach .... and although I end up stemming off of the chimney later on, the first few moves up the crack do seem to clock in around 5.8 anyway. I agree that the first pitch as a whole seems contrived, between the chimney and the very little amount of climbing that's on it.

Beware of pine sap from the tree!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: With the exception of the first belay, all of the belays are quite comfortable ledges!

I wasn't quite sure where to go for the 4th pitch (5.6) - you make a few steep moves onto a sloping ledge, then it seems like you can either go left up a ramp, or back right, directly above your belayer. I did the latter, which got me to the next belay; but it seemed like the leftward option would also get you to the same place.

Still a decent amount of loose stuff - keep knocking, and tread... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Stemming Corner (5.6)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: I clambered up just left of the graffiti to start, then wandered fairly far, up a bit, then traversed over a steep bulge back right below the main corner. I'm not sure that was the right thing to do, but my partner ended up doing the same. We both agreed this was perhaps a touch harder than 5.6. Nice route, tho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Peaches (5.5)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Slings on tree as of 4/2010. Nice route - loved the crack moves. Perhaps the route listing here should match what's in the Handren book, 5.7, with the 5.5 as a variation?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Spiderline (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: A big (purple?) tricam goes well in a pocket just off the halfway ledge. Wouldn't keep you off the ledge, but it will help, and keeps nuts from lifting.

I found the hardest moves to be the first 10' or so off the ledge, and not so well-protected. Otherwise - really nice pitch!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Valentine's Day (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Good stances, good number of solid moves, good gear - just wish it were longer!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Sure is - Denis is really dedicated, and talented! Plus, it's almost 'historical' - the tree on the lower left no longer exists.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I did Moby Dick itself as a (single) pitch having started from Andrew, so I aimed towards the traverse left a bit below where you're describing - on a tighty-whitey face. At any rate, I thought the notch looked a lot like V3, so that's what I was expecting - it certainly is different!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 11, 2010

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Comments: I was happy when I led this route, but I am now sufficiently humbled. By a chipmunk!


Location: CO : Chris Plesko heading to Ala...
By: JSH When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Stay warm, and keep the rubber side down!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Parking Lot Wall : Centerfold (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: Lee, I can't tell - is this the flow just right of Egg McMeadows?


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Apocalypse Wall : Parallel Gully (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: This is an enjoyable route, and I thought more in the solid-3 category because it was quite a continuous calf-burner (and the good pro would be left-handed).

The trick is that you can't see it (from the road) until you've passed it and look backwards.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: JSH When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9)
By: JSH When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: There are feet at the crux. Just sayin'!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Fire Wall : Pink Hot Tub (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Dec 28, 2009

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route - fun varied climbing, and really well-protected. The roof move felt a touch harder, but I'm only a visitor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Boron Destroyer (5.10a/b)
By: JSH When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: I thought the end-of-climbing was just past (right) of the big left-facing corner ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: I think the crucial part about extending is this: use VERY long runners (like shoulder-length + another) and once you've done the mantle and made a move left -- turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Otherwise it'll stay caught in the turn. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Tangled Up and Blue (5.8-)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: We both ended up doing a fair amount of face climbing to the right of the chimney, where it was bombay.

Fun enough route - watch for loose stuff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arc of a Diver (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: We did the same thing for a 2nd pitch. I think you did well to describe it that way. The 2nd pitches there overlap a lot, and it makes more sense just to keep going up than to wander around.

I do remember feeling that the 3rd pitch was reachy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Unholy Wick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: Nicely described, Dana!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Good call, Mike - almost a textbook example. That block sure does rock back & forth! I'm going to guess that it's fairly well wedged in there, though - it sure has seen a lot of traffic. But I still wouldn't be pulling out on it!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : 50-50 (5.5)
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: It should also be noted - sling whatever piece you place before The Move long; legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: P3 was rated 5.7 up until the Grey Dick came out; and even at 5.7, it wasn't a gimme. That re-grading is the one I most strongly disagree with.

It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.

Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea.


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