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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 574
Total Points: 996
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 3
9 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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All (717) | Routes (22) | Areas (22) | Photos (50) | Comments (196) | Posts (382) | Stars (37) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: Great job with the description - totally agree on quality, and that it's a good 'testpiece 5.6'


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ent Line (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.

This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux, and I've even seen a small nut used to protect the first move rightwards.

That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle; and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!

Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader - I... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: The pin on P2 seems ok to me, it's fairly sheltered by the roof above it.

P2 is one of those where you have to carefully consider the balance between rope drag, and protecting your 2nd. If you place a piece below the roof and sling it too long, your second will be unprotected at the crux, and will only have one chance at doing it. Doubles help with this.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: JSH When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: This isn't a great route for either new leaders or new followers - it traverses a lot in the first pitch, with large swings possible on either end of the rope. Also, this section of cliff has lots of loose rock on it - it's a good place to wear helmets, even on the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: As of 7/09, there are fairly-new rap slings around a fairly-dead and fairly-short stump. I'd advise continuing 20' more to the top - you can easily belay from the top, walk off the back then stroll down to your pack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Trigger Point (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 10, 2009

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Comments: Nice enough route. Dick lists a variation of P1 as climbing the face to the left of the crack, after you've come up the initial flakes and stepped right. I think this is what I did - it felt like a somewhat bigger move than 5.6. The route proper says to step right after the initial flakes, then continue up past the crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Honky Tonk Woman (5.9 R)
By: JSH When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Westward Ha! (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: It's possible, and in fact a great idea, to rap only to the tree that's above the rotten rock on the first described pitch. Then you can link the rest of the first pitch with the second pitch, for one long pitch of continuous climbing. Doing it this way increases the exposure / feeling of being alone on the cliff at the crux of the second pitch, which is really just fantastic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Take care to extend your clifftop belay back towards the cliff edge - communication back to the 2nd belay can be difficult. Also, be careful of loose rock on top!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Great picture. It's also a fantastic example of foreshortening!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.

The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: JSH When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: Traversing right ~20' after you've cleared the steeper stuff on P1 is preferable if there's another party on Pas de Deux, since the left finish overlaps with that route.

My 'secret' way of doing The Move on P1 involves an elbow jam / lockoff. It's bomber once you've got it!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip (5.10a)
By: JSH When: May 8, 2009

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Comments: Great route - it may look short, but it's got lots of climbing on it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: actually, it is pretty good for a butt shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: Interesting variety of comments! I found this easier than Touch & Go. The chimney is pretty secure.

I really enjoyed the route, especially the variety of climbing on it - a few moves of almost everything.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Nereltne (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

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Comments: The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section.

In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 27, 2009

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Comments: I have also seen someone deck from this route ... be careful to protect ledge-fall (and zippering!), the ground is closer than you think.

This route can be 5.8. Unless you climb it like the crack that it is (ie, minimize your use of feet on the face), and find the good stances, it can seem much harder, very quickly, and more so than other routes. The pro does sometimes take a moment to get right, but it's 100% G.

Such sweet climbing and position, though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Strawberry Jam (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2009

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Comments: The placement in question is 6ish feet above your last piece, and 10ish feet above a ledge, so it's fairly crucial. It's deep and around or behind a bit of a corner; getting it and checking it is challenging. At 5'7", I was maxxed out at the highest place I could stem the gap - shorter people may well be SOL to see/place at all. I ended up downclimbing to the ledge to check the piece, at first.

The step-across move itself was trivial, once I'd spent all my gas getting the piece.... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Outhouse Rock : Outhouse Rock - East Face : Straight Flush (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: An enjoyable mix of techniques. It might have been my early-season conditioning, but both my partner and I felt that the steep moves exiting and after the pod/cave were fairly stout for 5.8, even by Josh standards (well protected, though).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Wasp (5.9)
By: JSH When: Nov 5, 2008

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Comments: The crux is tricky to protect *well*. I use a BD micronut, an upward-pull nut down lower, &/ pink and black tricams. Your mileage may vary. I also later found a good BD TCU placement once we'd given up our Aliens.

The climbing above the GT seemed very loose - we opted not to continue.

This is a favorite route of mine, and was my first (intentional) 5.9 once upon a time.


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