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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 597
Total Points: 1,051
Last Year: 83
Last 30 Days: 20
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 763 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 216 | Posts 403 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Sure is - Denis is really dedicated, and talented! Plus, it's almost 'historical' - the tree on the lower left no longer exists.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I did Moby Dick itself as a (single) pitch having started from Andrew, so I aimed towards the traverse left a bit below where you're describing - on a tighty-whitey face. At any rate, I thought the notch looked a lot like V3, so that's what I was expecting - it certainly is different!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 11, 2010

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Comments: I was happy when I led this route, but I am now sufficiently humbled. By a chipmunk!


Location: CO : Chris Plesko heading to Ala...
By: JSH When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Stay warm, and keep the rubber side down!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Parking Lot Wall : Centerfold (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: Lee, I can't tell - is this the flow just right of Egg McMeadows?


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Apocalypse Wall : Parallel Gully (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: This is an enjoyable route, and I thought more in the solid-3 category because it was quite a continuous calf-burner (and the good pro would be left-handed).

The trick is that you can't see it (from the road) until you've passed it and look backwards.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: JSH When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9)
By: JSH When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: There are feet at the crux. Just sayin'!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Fire Wall : Pink Hot Tub (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Dec 28, 2009

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route - fun varied climbing, and really well-protected. The roof move felt a touch harder, but I'm only a visitor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Boron Destroyer (5.10a/b)
By: JSH When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: I thought the end-of-climbing was just past (right) of the big left-facing corner ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: I think the crucial part about extending is this: use VERY long runners (like shoulder-length + another) and once you've done the mantle and made a move left -- turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Otherwise it'll stay caught in the turn. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Tangled Up and Blue (5.8-)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: We both ended up doing a fair amount of face climbing to the right of the chimney, where it was bombay.

Fun enough route - watch for loose stuff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arc of a Diver (5.9-)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: We did the same thing for a 2nd pitch. I think you did well to describe it that way. The 2nd pitches there overlap a lot, and it makes more sense just to keep going up than to wander around.

I do remember feeling that the 3rd pitch was reachy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Unholy Wick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 9, 2009

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Comments: Nicely described, Dana!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Good call, Mike - almost a textbook example. That block sure does rock back & forth! I'm going to guess that it's fairly well wedged in there, though - it sure has seen a lot of traffic. But I still wouldn't be pulling out on it!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : 50-50 (5.5)
By: JSH When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: It should also be noted - sling whatever piece you place before The Move long; legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: P3 was rated 5.7 up until the Grey Dick came out; and even at 5.7, it wasn't a gimme. That re-grading is the one I most strongly disagree with.

It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.

Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 3, 2009

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Comments: I agree that the right start nudges up towards 5.8 - I had some trouble when I led it, and corners are usually good to me.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: Great job with the description - totally agree on quality, and that it's a good 'testpiece 5.6'


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ent Line (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.

This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux, and I've even seen a small nut used to protect the first move rightwards.

That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle; and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!

Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader - I... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jul 31, 2009

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Comments: The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.


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