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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 584
Total Points: 1,029
Last Year: 84
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 746 | Routes 22 | Areas 22 | Photos 54 | Page Improvments | Comments 209 | Posts 394 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: The Black Dick described, basically: starting at the ledge, go up a thin seam and climb the face left of the major arete, to the GT ledge, 5.9 G. This seemed thin enough to be easy 5.9, to me; I'm not sure it's the same as what you've described here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: ... some of these are a bit creaky!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: ... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: Nice!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: "We all yell upROPE! over six inches of slack."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rock and Brew (5.9 R)
By: JSH When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: The crux is certainly getting off the ground, but the moves up the thin crack and past the (real) gear placement are a series of sustained 5.8 on somewhat crumbly rock, with groundfall potential from 40 ft. up. I found nothing worthwhile at the thin crack for gear (on second, and neither did Scott on lead). I'd really call this route more R/X than anything.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: Great pic!


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: JSH When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: hah! I had a black snake fall on me on Son of Easy O. Maybe cliff-diving is a recreational sport for these fellers ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Main Line (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: The first pitch can be a bit heady; it's definitely PG, though I don't know that I would go so far as to call it PG-13, with a good number of moves well beyond pro that is sometimes strenuous to place, and is often out of sight of the belayer. It's also quite easy to add some serious rope drag!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Nurn's Romp (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: One rope will get you down from the Exorcist anchors, Brian.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sundown (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: The crux is quite a thoughtful then committing move, with gear below your feet, and seemed pretty hard-8 to me.

We continued up the second pitch of Kama Sutra, which goes straight up from the double-bolt rappel anchor mid-cliff. It seemed very PG, and very 5.6++, especially right at the top ... I would not put a 5.6 leader on it, to be sure. Not sure I ever want to lead it, myself!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: For me, the move just off the ground is just beyond my reach .... and although I end up stemming off of the chimney later on, the first few moves up the crack do seem to clock in around 5.8 anyway. I agree that the first pitch as a whole seems contrived, between the chimney and the very little amount of climbing that's on it.

Beware of pine sap from the tree!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: With the exception of the first belay, all of the belays are quite comfortable ledges!

I wasn't quite sure where to go for the 4th pitch (5.6) - you make a few steep moves onto a sloping ledge, then it seems like you can either go left up a ramp, or back right, directly above your belayer. I did the latter, which got me to the next belay; but it seemed like the leftward option would also get you to the same place.

Still a decent amount of loose stuff - keep knocking, and tread... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Stemming Corner (5.6)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: I clambered up just left of the graffiti to start, then wandered fairly far, up a bit, then traversed over a steep bulge back right below the main corner. I'm not sure that was the right thing to do, but my partner ended up doing the same. We both agreed this was perhaps a touch harder than 5.6. Nice route, tho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Peaches (5.5)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Slings on tree as of 4/2010. Nice route - loved the crack moves. Perhaps the route listing here should match what's in the Handren book, 5.7, with the 5.5 as a variation?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Spiderline (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: A big (purple?) tricam goes well in a pocket just off the halfway ledge. Wouldn't keep you off the ledge, but it will help, and keeps nuts from lifting.

I found the hardest moves to be the first 10' or so off the ledge, and not so well-protected. Otherwise - really nice pitch!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Valentine's Day (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Good stances, good number of solid moves, good gear - just wish it were longer!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Sure is - Denis is really dedicated, and talented! Plus, it's almost 'historical' - the tree on the lower left no longer exists.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8)
By: JSH When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I did Moby Dick itself as a (single) pitch having started from Andrew, so I aimed towards the traverse left a bit below where you're describing - on a tighty-whitey face. At any rate, I thought the notch looked a lot like V3, so that's what I was expecting - it certainly is different!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 11, 2010

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Comments: I was happy when I led this route, but I am now sufficiently humbled. By a chipmunk!


Location: CO : Chris Plesko heading to Ala...
By: JSH When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Stay warm, and keep the rubber side down!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Parking Lot Wall : Centerfold (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: Lee, I can't tell - is this the flow just right of Egg McMeadows?


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Apocalypse Wall : Parallel Gully (WI3)
By: JSH When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: This is an enjoyable route, and I thought more in the solid-3 category because it was quite a continuous calf-burner (and the good pro would be left-handed).

The trick is that you can't see it (from the road) until you've passed it and look backwards.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: JSH When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils.


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