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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 632
Total Points: 1,069
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 6
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










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All 815 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 228 | Posts 442 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: After limping my way up this yesterday - I've changed the rating to 5.9 and PG-13 (at least! and consensus here says PG13 or R). This route would be so much more fun if it were clean/secure.

The rap station now has: 2 pitons, 2 pink tricams and an old U-stem green camalot, with some improved but already aging slingage. If I'd had any energy left, I would have cleaned up & replaced some of the cord, but ... alas.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Blueberry Ledges (5.5 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: I'd agree that the fist pitch is rather ... airy, as far as pro goes. There's none for the first 40ish feet, then once you've made the enjoyable moves out/onto the hanging arete, you have to make several steep moves again before you'll get gear. So, not a route for a 5.5-6 leader.

Link-up: Because I apparently didn't quite have my fill of airing it out (or because I perhaps forgot to turn left}, I continued straight up the face after the ledge on P1. I then considered heading diagonal and le... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: I was surprised at how much, and what a variety, of climbing this route packs in! The chimney fairly easy if you're fluent in wide. The step around right is spicy, but protected. The second pitch is ... definitely not a gimme, and you're making moves well above gear a few times.

The third pitch has hands, a traverse, a juggy corner 'hang, and nice face - all in 50'.

That said, it's definitely one of Those (hard!) Gunks 5.6s.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Willie's Weep (5.2)
By: JSH When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: We did the 5.6 variation yesterday - it was a lot of ... fun! (I thought) or ... yuk, loose! (Scott thought). The beginning pitch is definitely more on the PG than G side of things.

Some loose rock, yes, but lots of fun wandering back and forth between the corner and arete. One 60m will just get you down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Eyebrow (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: nice! where did you take this from?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: I just meant the perspective made me blink. But it is a neat view of Baby, and a good shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: Nice (if weird) shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Fetus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Jun 28, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the write-up, Rui. It sounds like (and from when I've seen it climbed) you'd perhaps say PG-13? Or just really healthy PG?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Limelight (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: The beautiful white rock at the top of P2 really is a special feature.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Laurel (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: Oh, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Double Chin (5.5)
By: JSH When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: In May 2010, my partner and I moved the fixed rappel at the GT ledge from the leaning-over, half-eroded tree to the beefy pine 15' left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Silly Chimney (5.1)
By: JSH When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: Sounds a bit like the descent from Tahquitz. First time I was up on top of that hunk of rock, we walked around for hours looking for something obvious. Thankfully another climber came along and led us down a chimney that we would never have dropped into by our own accord!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : In The Groove (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: The start is often non-negotiably wet in early season (or winter, when one might use, say, golf shoes. Who knows?).

The rock on P2 is very suspect in places - my second broke a hold and fell, quite unexpectedly.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: nice shot, Seth!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: The Black Dick described, basically: starting at the ledge, go up a thin seam and climb the face left of the major arete, to the GT ledge, 5.9 G. This seemed thin enough to be easy 5.9, to me; I'm not sure it's the same as what you've described here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: ... some of these are a bit creaky!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: ... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: Nice!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: "We all yell upROPE! over six inches of slack."


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