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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 10 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 600
Total Points: 1,051
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 763 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 216 | Posts 403 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Double Chin (5.5)
By: JSH When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 14, 2010

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Comments: In May 2010, my partner and I moved the fixed rappel at the GT ledge from the leaning-over, half-eroded tree to the beefy pine 15' left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Silly Chimney (5.1)
By: JSH When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: Sounds a bit like the descent from Tahquitz. First time I was up on top of that hunk of rock, we walked around for hours looking for something obvious. Thankfully another climber came along and led us down a chimney that we would never have dropped into by our own accord!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : In The Groove (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: The start is often non-negotiably wet in early season (or winter, when one might use, say, golf shoes. Who knows?).

The rock on P2 is very suspect in places - my second broke a hold and fell, quite unexpectedly.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: nice shot, Seth!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: The Black Dick described, basically: starting at the ledge, go up a thin seam and climb the face left of the major arete, to the GT ledge, 5.9 G. This seemed thin enough to be easy 5.9, to me; I'm not sure it's the same as what you've described here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: ... some of these are a bit creaky!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: JSH When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: ... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: Nice!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: "We all yell upROPE! over six inches of slack."


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rock and Brew (5.9 R)
By: JSH When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: The crux is certainly getting off the ground, but the moves up the thin crack and past the (real) gear placement are a series of sustained 5.8 on somewhat crumbly rock, with groundfall potential from 40 ft. up. I found nothing worthwhile at the thin crack for gear (on second, and neither did Scott on lead). I'd really call this route more R/X than anything.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: Great pic!


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: JSH When: May 5, 2010

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Comments: hah! I had a black snake fall on me on Son of Easy O. Maybe cliff-diving is a recreational sport for these fellers ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Main Line (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: The first pitch can be a bit heady; it's definitely PG, though I don't know that I would go so far as to call it PG-13, with a good number of moves well beyond pro that is sometimes strenuous to place, and is often out of sight of the belayer. It's also quite easy to add some serious rope drag!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Nurn's Romp (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: One rope will get you down from the Exorcist anchors, Brian.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sundown (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: The crux is quite a thoughtful then committing move, with gear below your feet, and seemed pretty hard-8 to me.

We continued up the second pitch of Kama Sutra, which goes straight up from the double-bolt rappel anchor mid-cliff. It seemed very PG, and very 5.6++, especially right at the top ... I would not put a 5.6 leader on it, to be sure. Not sure I ever want to lead it, myself!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: JSH When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: For me, the move just off the ground is just beyond my reach .... and although I end up stemming off of the chimney later on, the first few moves up the crack do seem to clock in around 5.8 anyway. I agree that the first pitch as a whole seems contrived, between the chimney and the very little amount of climbing that's on it.

Beware of pine sap from the tree!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: With the exception of the first belay, all of the belays are quite comfortable ledges!

I wasn't quite sure where to go for the 4th pitch (5.6) - you make a few steep moves onto a sloping ledge, then it seems like you can either go left up a ramp, or back right, directly above your belayer. I did the latter, which got me to the next belay; but it seemed like the leftward option would also get you to the same place.

Still a decent amount of loose stuff - keep knocking, and tread... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Stemming Corner (5.6)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: I clambered up just left of the graffiti to start, then wandered fairly far, up a bit, then traversed over a steep bulge back right below the main corner. I'm not sure that was the right thing to do, but my partner ended up doing the same. We both agreed this was perhaps a touch harder than 5.6. Nice route, tho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Peaches (5.5)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Slings on tree as of 4/2010. Nice route - loved the crack moves. Perhaps the route listing here should match what's in the Handren book, 5.7, with the 5.5 as a variation?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Spiderline (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: A big (purple?) tricam goes well in a pocket just off the halfway ledge. Wouldn't keep you off the ledge, but it will help, and keeps nuts from lifting.

I found the hardest moves to be the first 10' or so off the ledge, and not so well-protected. Otherwise - really nice pitch!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Valentine's Day (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Good stances, good number of solid moves, good gear - just wish it were longer!


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