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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 641
Total Points: 1,068
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 818 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 228 | Posts 445 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: Really nice pic, John.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Nice pic!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 8, 2012

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Comments: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ;-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for posting this very specific picture.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th)
By: JSH When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Rich, what was the 'BITD' Uberfall route? I know it involved a drop to the earth from a hang, but I can't remember where it was.

I added this as a route not to set the record straight, but to describe the common descent in order to link to it from all the routes in the area. Hopefully to give a few people an idea to walk off every now & then.

And for what it's worth, I've seen a rope over it! Both in the context of protecting a nervous downclimbing adult, and for a kid's TR. Not sure what S... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Akline, none of my guidebooks give a name to that set of moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: JSH When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Dave, what's the PG13 part (the start?), or is it just generally necky?


Location: MA : Middlesex Fells : Black and White Rocks
By: JSH When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: These rocks are within the Middlesex Fells Reservation, officially governed by the DCR.
mass.gov/dcr/parks/metroboston...

There's a good trail map (pdf) linked here:
mass.gov/dcr/news/publicmeetin...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Kevin, that's what I've most often done, and it is nice. The nose is nice & a bit exposed, and you can also climb the open-book to the right at the top, all about the same grade.

It's possible to link the whole route in one pitch, if you sling things very carefully and follow the nose at the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Doug's Roof : Unnamed DA 2 (V0) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: well, F is right next to D on the keyboard ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: I have a complex mathematical transformation I perform on all re-graded routes ..... aaaanyway, I still think of this as 9. As Kevin said - tougher single moves than either Pas de Deux or Son of Easy O, which are the sane comparisons.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Good luck not giggling your way up this crack ...!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Nice perspective!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : The Flake (5.1 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: In early spring, this route can be a firehose!


Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: Ped, does Evernote need to be online for that to work?

Andy et al. - you should provide a PayPal link for voluntary donations anyway. I'd certainly pony up.


Location: CO : Mountain Project iPhone/And...
By: JSH When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: I'm super excited to see this!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: JSH When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rap... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Boring (5.9 X)
By: JSH When: Mar 8, 2011

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Comments: Yikes!

For those of us with shorter necks, this can be toproped easily from the rappel bolts, but beware that you'll be toproping the rappel line (for that matter, you should beware if you lead it, as well).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : First Impressions: Joshua T...
By: JSH When: Mar 6, 2011

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Comments: When I'm in Josh, my partner and I typically carry a separate sack with all of Bartlett's guides; the old Vogel (for the East) and the new Vogel. It sure adds up!

It would be super nice to have one book that covers it all (well) and manages to skip over the no-star clumps that always seem to sucker me in.

Although, spending at least one day wandering around but climbing nothing still needs to be a Josh rite of passage.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, I'll be having nightmares about this soon ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: Long ago, my friend D. posted to a forum: "What route did I fall off of yesterday?" after she'd come off of some route up here, tumbling so far that her ankles brushed the ledge, and everyone on the ledge gasped. Because the Bombs Away roof/corner is both harder and less at-your-waist protected than Middle Earth, I think we eventually figured it was Bombs Away.

The guidebooks have been somewhat unclear in distinguishing the three top pitches. Looking at mine now, I think it's because Dick d... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wild Horses (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: The Black Dick only lists the (above) 4 on the FA.

I removed Tim's recommendation to set a gear anchor above the direct line of the route -- because I helped carry out an acquaintance who did exactly that, then leaned back and decked (luckily, no lasting injuries). He told me later that he'd placed 3 cams under a block that shifted. The blocks up there are rather large, so that was surprising, but - best just use the tree and a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c) : Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: Y'all are cfrac'ing crazy!

Did Rob have to take the big swing when he followed?

(I may need to move the video to fit it in better. Lemme check with the Powers That Be.)

Oh, and - those are the bolts on top of Moonlight that you rapped from, yes?


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