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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Were I belaying this guy, I'd have fed out a foot or three of slack on red, so that I could belay carefully on blue (which is protecting him from the ledge below). That way I could take in blue if he downclimbs, without worrying about pulling down on him on red. That also makes red easily available for a clip, and leaves red loose so it may not entangle him if he fell.
Ideally, the red would be between the climber's right leg and the rock. Michael is correct that red is highly unlikely to flip... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : J'accuse (5.10b PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...
Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Nov 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In another area, SI may well have been 5.9!
While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Likely, yes ...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)
Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:
www.mountainproject.com/v/new_york/the_gunks/the_trapps/1065>>>
What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: And, note that Dick's Prick pinnacle is just about touching 10,000 Restless Virgins.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Step Lively (5.10a)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This works for me too (so far as I remember, been a while). What I meant by "beta label" is that there is a decent crimper/hold for the right hand, which the climber in the photo has his hand on. Most people don't seem to notice because they've usually got their back to it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture almost needs a "beta" label. Nice shot!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... and at the start, for that matter.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty good pic of 'the move'!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark, can you be more specific about *which* right-facing corner this route climbs off the GT? So far as I know, it's Wisecrack on the left, next-right is Bombs Away, then comes Middle Earth's right-facing corner. Where does Faithful Journey fit in there?
It might be height, and I may have been tired, but I just about could not get off the ground here at all, and 5.7 should be well within my abilities.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss (5.11a)
By: JSH When: Sep 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Dana, this is the route immediately right of Te Dum, yes?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : A Peney for your freedom (5.8+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for your loss; and thanks to your son for his service. What a wonderful memorial.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite routes, and it's really pretty easy to link P1 and P2 - just clip almost everything at & around the traverse with a 2' runner, then take care to mostly place stuff to climber's right until you've gotten to the P2 crack.
However, with a newer second, definitely do NOT link the pitches ...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Scene of the Climb (5.11a PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 2010, this route is almost completely hidden and covered by the growth of a maple tree at the base.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Bragg-Hatch (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: ??
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoy the top pitch - it's yet-another option after getting to the GT.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic - the pitch wanders a bunch, but the climber shown on top really lets you know where to aim.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!
The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Northern Pillar (5.4)
By: JSH When: Aug 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let me third the recommendation to skip the 3rd pitch!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: After limping my way up this yesterday - I've changed the rating to 5.9 and PG-13 (at least!). This route would be so much more fun if it were clean/secure.
The rap station now has: 2 pitons, 2 pink tricams and an old U-stem green camalot, with some improved but already aging slingage. If I'd had any energy left, I would have cleaned up & replaced some of the cord, but ... alas.
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