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JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 615
Total Points: 1,061
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 794 | Routes 22 | Areas 23 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 221 | Posts 428 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dis-Mantel (5.10)
By: JSH When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Ouch, Jon, that sounds pretty close to the dirt.

I'm short: 5'6" with a -2" apespan. The first roof has always shut me down on toprope. I think I climbed it once or twice when I was a 5.9 leader, but maybe not even then.

Speaking of toprope, if you think your second will flail like me, be sure to use the horizontal under the 2nd roof to arrange the rope such that it is over the first roof (not to the right of the first roof).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: JSH When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: To be fair, the Improve function was added in 2014.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Losbill's comment may have been a bit sarcastic. For some interesting reading on why he may feel that way, grab a PBR and read up here.

From that thread, these three angles replaced this:





Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: From the other (awesome) pictures in the series, it seems like Denis was hanging on rappel from a rope to the side.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : p. Little Havana : Motorcycle Diarrhias (5.10)
By: JSH When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Taino, who is the FA? I'd like to add a name here if possible. The GB for Peterskill doesn't list FA info, so it is sadly missing 'round here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Once you get up to the right-facing corner up higher, the key thing is that the climbing eases off by a grade or 3 just one move higher. If you've gotten that far, you're quite unlikely to fall, and, well -- don't, because you're pretty darn high above your last -decent- gear. There's decent gear in a horizontal one move higher (that still depends on the flake itself), and then you make a few moves left to a stance.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the note, Jay. I'm 5'6+" with a negative ape index, and .... yeah, harder than 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: JSH When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: This sounds an awful lot like Phoebe. Can you describe how they're different?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : c. LA Roof : Acute Corner (5.7)
By: JSH When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Gear was more R than PG.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Photo credit?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: JSH When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: I've seen fixed nuts come & go in that small crack - that should be a warning to anyone leading it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Trapped Like a Rat (5.7+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: The right-leaning crack in the center of the photo here is TLAR. My partners and I have gained that crack from the boulders to the lower right (it's more of an open book than it looks in this photo), and that's what I've always seen other people do, as well.


Location: JSH : Julie's pics : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: It is High E. I was lucky to have a friend, Gabe, over on a route much further to the left, and lucky to see him randomly later and have him recognize the clothes I was wearing, or note that I mentioned we'd climbed High E that day, such that he said - hey, I have some pictures of you. I had no idea he was over there taking pictures.

I got to onsight it the first time I climbed it -- luckily figured it out just right as a 5.6 climber. That was neat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Groovy (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: The "consensus grade" above has just been changed to be the median of the "your rating" contributions - so yes, enter away! Then go over to Modern Times, High E, etc, and enter away there ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Hi Doug, as it says above - it does tend to fill up early, probably by 9 or so. Breakfast wall might do well for your kids, lots of easier routes (gear anchors, tho).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jane (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I've always known RMC as the stacked blocks to the right (there's a fun move stepping onto the main face, I think).

Tim S. entered RMC, and he wrote it up as what is also described here as the start to Jane (he also noted that you can use the blocks), then a bunch of comments wrote about that loose block, so I left it as is.

The two starts are about equivalent in difficulty. Jane's higher grade comes from the moves above where it crosses and goes up right, towards Raubenheimer's.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : A Long Walk For Man, A Shor... (5.4)
By: JSH When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: I fourth the idea that this route is reasonably fun; very much like 3 Pines, if shorter. I traversed the face below the roof, which was within the grade range.

There's new cord around the (dead) tree up top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Armadillo's Delight (5.10b/c PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Eugene, might you have done the last pitch of Anguish? Seems like there's some confusion over above-the-GT pitches up there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this again yesterday. The Williams book photos show two lines for two 1st pitches, but the left version is lichened over and long gone; there is effectively one first pitch for both Sundance and Moondance from the pedestal. I added a bit more detail to the route description for P2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Hi David, there have been several bolt anchors place since (I've updated the main Peterskill page just now with some route names). Individual route descriptions do tend to have more details in them, so browse around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: JSH When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Major rockfall from P2 of No Glow, May 2014.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Matt - for Westward Ha, do you now rap from the clifftop, or scramble down to the level of the old rap tree?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Moxie (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Gail, what did you do for a descent?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Rich! That's exactly the picture I was thinking of.


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