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JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker


Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 605
Total Points: 1,031
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 754 | Routes 22 | Areas 22 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 211 | Posts 400 | Stars 37 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Trapped Like a Rat (5.7+) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: The right-leaning crack in the center of the photo here is TLAR. My partners and I have gained that crack from the boulders to the lower right (it's more of an open book than it looks in this photo), and that's what I've always seen other people do, as well.


Location: JSH : Julie's pics : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: It is High E. I was lucky to have a friend, Gabe, over on a route much further to the left, and lucky to see him randomly later and have him recognize the clothes I was wearing, or note that I mentioned we'd climbed High E that day, such that he said - hey, I have some pictures of you. I had no idea he was over there taking pictures.

I got to onsight it the first time I climbed it -- luckily figured it out just right as a 5.6 climber. That was neat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Groovy (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: The "consensus grade" above has just been changed to be the median of the "your rating" contributions - so yes, enter away! Then go over to Modern Times, High E, etc, and enter away there ...


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Hi Doug, as it says above - it does tend to fill up early, probably by 9 or so. Breakfast wall might do well for your kids, lots of easier routes (gear anchors, tho).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jane (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I've always known RMC as the stacked blocks to the right (there's a fun move stepping onto the main face, I think).

Tim S. entered RMC, and he wrote it up as what is also described here as the start to Jane (he also noted that you can use the blocks), then a bunch of comments wrote about that loose block, so I left it as is.

The two starts are about equivalent in difficulty. Jane's higher grade comes from the moves above where it crosses and goes up right, towards Raubenheimer's.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : A Long Walk For Man, A Shor... (5.4)
By: JSH When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: I fourth the idea that this route is reasonably fun; very much like 3 Pines, if shorter. I traversed the face below the roof, which was within the grade range.

There's new cord around the (dead) tree up top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Armadillo's Delight (5.10b/c PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Eugene, might you have done the last pitch of Anguish? Seems like there's some confusion over above-the-GT pitches up there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this again yesterday. The Williams book photos show two lines for two 1st pitches, but the left version is lichened over and long gone; there is effectively one first pitch for both Sundance and Moondance from the pedestal. I added a bit more detail to the route description for P2.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: JSH When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Hi David, there have been several bolt anchors place since (I've updated the main Peterskill page just now with some route names). Individual route descriptions do tend to have more details in them, so browse around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: JSH When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Major rockfall from P2 of No Glow, May 2014.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Matt - for Westward Ha, do you now rap from the clifftop, or scramble down to the level of the old rap tree?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Moxie (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Gail, what did you do for a descent?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: JSH When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Rich! That's exactly the picture I was thinking of.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Easy Rider (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Really nice job with the route add, guys!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Revenge of the Relics (5.10a PG13)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: As for the protection rating - a good belayer (ahem) can keep you off the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It looks to me like the green rope(s) are hanging from the GT rappel station, while the obvious vertical red rope is hanging from the mid-cliff bolts. They are over the route Kama Sutra or so.

There is a fainter red rope behind both of those that follows the traversing first pitch of Maria.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : King of P (5.3)
By: JSH When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: I changed the name of this entry to King of P, as Dick called it that in his most recent book. The second pitch described here is still Little White Mushroom, so I've noted that in the description.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Pure Joy (V2-3)
By: JSH When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: If someone has pre-dated ascent info, post it up, and we'll add it. For now, I've added a "first reported" to the FA line here. Like so many lines, it may well have been climbed before, but props to Serge for heading up into the unknown.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB - I did a bunch of editing today, incorporating suggestions and descriptions from above along with my own experience. I also omitted directions to rappel for reasons.

Hopefully next summer I'll add a picture of the route base.

When I first climbed this route aeons ago, we exited left (!) out of the dihedral at the top - it was probably just as good as going right, an exciting 5.fun traverse. With, of course, darkness falling on a party of four.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : 5.8 Crack Climb (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Yes, very nice shot.

I hand-traversed on the rail below the climber's feet (so I did not get the piece under the roof to his right, but got some smaller stuff in the horizontal), then went up the arete to where he is. Was a nice few moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: There is a beautiful, textbook nut placement midway up the V. And if you can't take a hands-free nap while placing it, well, turn around a little until you can!


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Comment : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey there, good lookin' ...
Oh, wait.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Brian -- my Black Dick says there's a distinct pitch for Moondance, and that the straight-up romp is Sundance.

Peter - thanks for the additions. I originally under-described the pitch on purpose, in the spirit of adventuring, this much further down the cliff.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: According to the guidebook, this was named after the incident with the bus and the hairpin turn on 44/55 in 1981, when the bus was left hanging in space. I wonder if there are pictures in the interwebs somewhere ...


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