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Ingraham glacier


Member Since: Feb 15, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 28, 2011
Contact Joshua Balke


Point Rank: # 1,970
Total Points: 293
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joshua Balke been climbing?










Contributions


All 349 | Routes 4 | Areas 3 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 269 | Stars 4 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : St. Mary's Falls (WI2+ PG13)
By: Joshua Balke When: Jan 5, 2011

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Comments: Yup, that's the place.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Joshua Balke When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the reply. Next time I head out I'll bring some hangers and glue.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Joshua Balke When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: What's the score with missing TR bolt hangers? I seem to find 25% of them missing off of the bolts on Grocery Store Walls. Was this a park thing or just some jackass? If it's just some jerk I, assume it's ok for me to replace the hangers.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : St. Mary's Falls (WI2+ PG13)
By: Joshua Balke When: Dec 14, 2008

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Comments: Perhaps I've missed the WI2+ area but to my knowledge there is nothing up there that surpasses WI1. The only use of the ice up there is to teach a newcomer to basic crampon technique. No ice tools required for more than balance.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Joshua Balke When: Dec 13, 2008

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Comments: Jeffery, nice approach description. If anyone actually wants to climb some other steeper ice by TR for some practice, there is a WI4ish 20 ft route off the Columbine Trail in Cheyenne Canyon that is easily visible from the road. Look north. It's usually in mid winter but is usually detached verglas at the top making for not much fun on lead.

Edited above because it sounds a bit arrogant after rereading. Just saying if your looking for a steeper short TR look for the above mentioned climb.


Location: CO : Tell the Forest Service to ...
By: Joshua Balke When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: This is all fine and dandy but the post tells me exactly nothing about what I should be looking into. How will this affect areas? What areas are being considered. All of the links just lead to propaganda that gives no answers. I'm more than happy to try to preserve areas like big rock but where is the link to the NFS to what is being proposed?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Roof By-Pass (5.7)
By: Joshua Balke When: Sep 10, 2008

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Comments: Did this route thinking it was Stone Age for some reason. Have to agree with the 5.6 rating. I was a bit thrown off at first until I got into the meat of the climb. It's all there though this may not be a great first trad lead.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Guide's Route (5.6)
By: Joshua Balke When: Sep 6, 2008

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Comments: I think the direct "3rd" pitch is about 5.8 and much like the staircase adds a star to the route and is a great finish being much more direct with no rope drag or route finding to deal with. By the way a 70m rope will take you straight to the 3pin belay anchor with only a little rope drag is you sling your pro well. Turns the climb into about 1.5 pitches.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pike's Peak
By: Joshua Balke When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: A topo is found in Bob D's climbing guide to Pike's Peak and the Garden of the Gods. The book is out of print, but many local climbers have copies.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Drop Zone (5.10a)
By: Joshua Balke When: Aug 11, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this a couple weeks ago. I'd say that overall its a great route but I must agree that the first three traverse bolts could have been placed better. A long reach even for a 6'3 person to the first bolt and a bad fall for the leader but then a bolt within 3ft? After the first bolt the worst that will happen is the belayer lowering to the ledge below and then CLIMB ON. Everything else was nicely placed and a great climb. A good 5.9 and 3 stars.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Joshua Balke When: Mar 3, 2008

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Comments: As much as it disappoints me to see more traffic there I guess it was going to happen and of course it is public access as Pete said. I personally spent two days trudging through that area after hearing about it and after only getting a "it's along Old Stage Road" for approach notes. Let's keep with that. If people really want to climb the best ice in the area, they can at least put some effort into finding it. It's not that hard if you break out a topo and use some common sense. As an asid... more >>


Location: CO : Gear Reviews - What do you ...
By: Joshua Balke When: Nov 12, 2007

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Comments: I'd be interested in a review and compare/contrast of different ice leash systems ranging from leashes to leashless and variations there of.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Joshua Balke When: Nov 8, 2007

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Comments: Not sure what may constitute a scary anchor, but pitch one seems fine to me. Climbed it today, and it has one very solid bolt and a old school hammered piton that looks as solid as any I've seen. I'd be more prone to pull the buttonhead on p2, so no one hurts themselves if they take a fall on it than replace belay anchor #1. By the way, pitch 2 belay has one loose bolt, but there are several other belay pitons to add security if you feel uncomfortable.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Quarry Wall : In the Way (5.6)
By: Joshua Balke When: Sep 13, 2007

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Comments: The top section did seem a bit run out and I failed to find third (?) piton protecting the top. Either way I remember thinking a pink or red tricam would fit nicely in the crack in the corner and add some psychological comfort though the climbing in this section is very much 5.easy.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: Joshua Balke When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: Anyone have any beta on the obscure original line refered to in the Hubble and Rolofson guide? It just indicates that the route goes up the center to the hanging forest. No rating or topo nor does it say whether or not the route tops out or to decend from the hanging forest.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Aphrodite (5.10a)
By: Joshua Balke When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: Right anchor bolt loose.


Location: CO : State Park Entrance Fees In...
By: Joshua Balke When: Jul 12, 2007

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Comments: ecsp, thanks for saying so well what I couldn't in my post. While the state parks are not perfect staff and volunteers bust their asses to make their park the best they can. Rangers are usually so undermanned that they spend most of their time taking care of drunks, illegal fires, fights and god knows what else may come up in a day. Its really the volunteers who have to deal with a lot of the piddly crap like littering. Anyone who disagrees go ahead and volunteer. It's really easy and the a... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Ambiguously Uncertain Crag
By: Joshua Balke When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: I spoke directly with the NF and confirmed that this is NOT on private property if said crag is in Cathedral Park. However, access directly off of Old Stage Road does cross private property. To access legally, you must turn right down another road just before Cathedral Park appears and continue a couple hundred yards to an access trail. These directions are per the NF, and I haven't been up there since talking to them last winter to confirm. I was also asked to politely attempt to get names ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Cowboy Boot Crack (5.6)
By: Joshua Balke When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: Took some beginners out this afternoon and a friend ascended the Tourist Gully clearly trailing a rope to set up a TR and was told promptly by someone to get down. I was a bit irritated when I showed up to hear this as he was clearly a "technical climber" with rope and gear and climbing perfectly safely. So, the answer to the above is yes you can, but you may be shouted at.


Location: CO : State Park Entrance Fees In...
By: Joshua Balke When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: Josh- perhaps the easiest answer to your complaint is that there are multiple funds that can only be used for certain things. Some funds can only be used for park facilities, some to pay employees and so on. Look up GOCO (Great outdoors colorado) and see how they limit the money that is given to parks.
Pete- All I can say is that there is a big push for colorado state parks dept. to be self funding. If you look at the DOW I beleive they are completely self funding from all of the fishing/hu... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Joshua Balke When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: Just checked out this area today and had trouble defining routes based on the "Rock Climbing Colorado" guide. Perhaps it was the runout and the relatively slick rock, but the 5.6 center route didn't feel nearly that easy. Even here on MP, there are two routes listed (Robertson's Wall and the Ladder Route) that are listed as the second route from the left 5.6R. However, the guide states the first route is 5.6 second 5.7R etc. Anyone have a topo that has the current routes and accurate grades?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Stone Groove (5.6)
By: Joshua Balke When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: If this route is near what you lead comfortably, bring 4-5 pieces of at least 3in. Even a 70m rope will put you in a position to build a belay with large gear.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Joshua Balke When: May 25, 2007

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Comments: Stewart, considering I have absolutely zero experience placing bolts, what size wrench would I need and what torque should I use to tighten the bolts on High H2O and Electric Swimming Pool?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Dags in Beanland (5.8)
By: Joshua Balke When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: "The unabomber shack straight uphill is best avoided by walking west along the road at the T junction before bushwhacking straight up." That's great. Your probably talking about Tom's Place. My friend owns the place and rents it to the old vet that built it close to 30 years ago. He's a nice guy, but don't be suprised if he talks you into some strange conversation.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R)
By: Joshua Balke When: Apr 24, 2007

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Comments: Pete, there was a reference saying that the first few pitches had been destroyed by rock fall and you were in the process of re-establishing them. Any beta on the new route?


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