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Stairway to Heaven (pitch 3)


Member Since: Jan 26, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Total Points: 591
Last Year: 530
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 154 | Routes 14 | Areas 11 | Photos 52 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 28 | Stars 21 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion
By: Josh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Just a reminder for everyone visiting the Tiers that JeffCo Open Space regulations ask for dogs to remain on leashes except in specific designated areas. Since the Tiers of Zion are within the boundaries of the Windy Saddle Open Space Park, this means no dogs off leash, please. Given the amount of wildlife in the area (and rattlesnakes), this is a sound approach anyhow. That said, I'm very sorry to hear your dog got bitten, Kev.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho
By: Josh When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: There is a large, loose block sitting on the blunt arete between Horns of Jericho and Fit the Battle. It is well-settled on an incut ledge and is likely not going to go anywhere. The first developer at Jericho tried hard to remove it, but it kept wanting to settle back into place on the ledge. It poses no real threat to climbers on the existing routes, but you might as well at least be aware it is there. It is visible in the main topo photo.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : Mike's Dihedral (5.7)
By: Josh When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition, Leo and Doug! Hooray for more trad at the Tiers. Could you approach the bottom of this line from the top anchors of Horns of Jericho, or are you recommending rapping in only?


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : A. First Triangle : Three Little Bats (5.9+)
By: Josh When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, Dave-- the posted grade has now been adjusted appropriately. Fortunately, after more people have had a chance to try the route (and after I have had a chance to repeat it), a few different ways to deal with the roof sequence have been discovered, and several of them are more straightforward than whatever we were doing on the FA. Cheers.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Irie (5.7)
By: Josh When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Carl, I should say that I have finished checking the other routes with five-piece bolts on the Lower Tiers, and all others were adequately tight. The bolt that slid out on the other route (Lyin' Like a Lion) was in a unique position - the first bolt on a route with an overhang directly above plus the bolt immediately below a challenging crux. As a result, I believe this bolt was receiving frequent pulling and loading from different positions (including outward and upward) in rapid succession, an... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Zion Train (5.10a)
By: Josh When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Please note that the 10th bolt on the second pitch (the last one before reaching the top anchors) has been removed temporarily. It will be replaced as soon as possible. This bolt is in the 5.5 territory just before the anchor, so the pitch can still be led safely, especially if you are competent at the 5.10 level, but be ready for a longer runout on the final section. I will update/replace this comment as soon as the bolt is replaced.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10b)
By: Josh When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Carl, I can quite understand your surprise. The reason this bolt slid out the way it did is that the inner shaft had spun loose under repeated outward pull and tension from changing angles, which can happen with a first bolt on a route (where the rope angle can change as belayers move around and climbers clip subsequent bolts, etc.). I, too, am surprised it got so loose so quickly without anyone noticing the hanger was spinning, but the bolt itself was not "bad."

For the record, almost all th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Josh When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: There are now chains on the top anchor of pitch 2 of this route. They should help reduce the angle of pull on the existing rings and make rigging/lowering a bit easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Cornmeal Porridge (5.7+)
By: Josh When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Top anchor bolts have been checked and retightened as of 6/19/2015.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Irie (5.7)
By: Josh When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: I would like to replace the lefthand anchor bolt at the top of this route. It has been retightened (as have all the bolts on Irie as of 6/19/2015) and is safe enough for now, but the hanger is receiving leverage on a bit of a protrusion. I will post here when I have been able to get up there and fix it.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10b)
By: Josh When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Ralph, I have reinstalled the first bolt and tightened all bolts on the route. I will continue checking and tightening all bolts on routes at the Tiers over the next 2 weeks. So far, I have inspected and tightened everything on Lyin' Like a Lion, Irie (I would like to replace the lefthand bolt at the anchor, but it is safe for now), and the upper pitch of Don't Rock My Boat (which now has chains at the anchor). If anyone else encounters spinning hangers, please let me know asap so I can addre... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : A. First Triangle : Three Little Bats (5.9+)
By: Josh When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof. There is another bolt coming in a move or two, and those moves are easy, but a fall would most likely put you back below the roof. On the other hand, a fall off a cam above the roof might put you right into the lip - ouch.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion
By: Josh When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: Our first public trail work event for the Lower Tiers was a huge success! We had more than 25 people out working on June 27th and got a lot done! A great big thank you to all of you who helped out and to Jefferson County Open Space for organizing the event and to Bentgate shop for supporting the volunteers with coupons and prizes aaand to Snarfs Sandwich Shop for hooking us up with tasty lunch.

There is still some more to do on the west end (below the West Wall climbs... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : C. Third Triangle : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Josh When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: In the spring of 2015, the upper half of this route had sustained beer bottles thrown from the summit of Mt. Zion, so some of the holds had shards of glass resting on them. This is an unfortunate hazard of being just below the high point of the trail above. Hopefully the recent heavy rains have taken care of some of this issue. The other routes on the Upper Tier are less likely to receive the same bombardment....


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : B. Second Triangle : Undisclosed Location (5.9-)
By: Josh When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Chains have now been installed on the top anchor (thanks, Chuck!). It is also possible to climb out by going past the top anchors to the rappel station above and to the left.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : The Horns of Jericho (5.5)
By: Josh When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Bolt count corrected in the route description - thanks for the catch, Jay.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Josh When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Glad you liked the route, Matt. The FA party did look at continuing the line straight up, as opposed to breaking right to join the adjacent route, but the rock above loses angle significantly and is more grassy and loose. Lying' Like a Lion definitely provides the cleaner and more consistent finish.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Josh When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for catching the miscount, Jay. It is corrected in the route description now.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : The Burning Bush (5.7)
By: Josh When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: The route was named for the small shrub growing to the right of the line at 2/3 height, which had brilliant red leaves at the time of the FA. For full value, stay just to the left of the bolt line until the top.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Irie (5.7)
By: Josh When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: There is a fun (but entirely optional) hueco to the left of the second bolt.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Photo
By: Josh When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Um, yeah, the sleeping bag. It was an early attempt to figure out a reasonable way to carry the belay jacket (DAS parka). It was a cold day, so both of us were carrying jackets - a bit odd to have the leader bring one up, I suppose, but hey, maybe it would have saved my tailbone in a certain kind of fall....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Out of the Blue (5.9)
By: Josh When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Big thanks to Chuck and Adam for finding and setting up this one! Quite fun. Big, juggy rails most of the way and some worthwhile moves on both pitches.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Josh When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: Gigantic booty alert! Last Friday (July 31, 2010), my partner and I got within 20 feet of the final ridge (100 feet of the summit) and had to rap off in a hurry (lightning hail storm). Alas, we knew it was entirely possible, but it looked like we could eek it out right up until the end-- the clouds were slow to build, and none seemed distinctly threatening. It was all ok until it wasn't, and then it was time to get lower in a hurry. As a result, we left an anchor of good gear on a small ledg... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Josh When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: A loose block below the small roof on P1 is marked. If you avoid it, it makes your final moves to the anchor a fun and balancy step-across. It is out of the way of the rope line, so still relatively safe to climb underneath and past it.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: Josh When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Hanger is still missing from bolt #5, although as someone else noted earlier, it's past the crux on fairly moderate terrain. Still, if this crack route is already bolted, it might as well be safely so. I wish I had known ahead of time to try to replace. Doubt I'll get back there to do so soon, so I hope someone else can.


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