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Member Since: Apr 4, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Josh Smith


Point Rank: # 304
Total Points: 1,830
Last Year: 1,256
Last 30 Days: 15
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Smith been climbing?










Contributions


All 313 | Routes 147 | Areas 7 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 9 | Stars 78 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Josh Smith When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: April 20th 2014--the approach to the main cliff was damaged in the heavy September rains last year but it's still easier than the approach to the upper cliff. It is trivial to follow it down to the creek from the end of the ridge (see the overview topo) and I've re-established the cairns going from the creek up to the cliff. Look for footsteps and try to follow the same path each time. Thanks.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : The Sorcerer (5.12b PG13)
By: Josh Smith When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorite Sandia routes to date. The description of P3 here makes a good amendment to Mick's book (which is a little more terse). It's easy to wander around on this pitch without the pointers. Bomber small cam above the tiny tree on P3, then another bomber one four or five feet to the right, just before the corner.

If you don't feel up for the 5.12 pitch, it's easy to skip it at the end and do three pitches of some of the most engaging climbing in the Sandias. But the 12 pitch is stun... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Glasnost Crack (5.10-)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Nov. 10th 2013: has some dust/dirt on the edges right now. Still fun but will be cleaner after one rain storm.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Adiós Alemanes (5.11-) : Photo
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Sneaky.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Future ascents will be safer than the FA, but there is quite a bit of loose rock and mouse crap on the big ledge part way up P2. Be extra careful on this one.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Eternal Optimist (5.11-)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Seems likely that this route was climbed some time in the past--it's pretty obvious.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Josh Smith When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: I second the opinion on not adding bolts to an existing line without consulting the FA party. I found the gear adequate on this route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure : Photo
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: Goes at 5.9ish. Clean, fun.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Early Times (5.10)
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: (Different Josh Smith than listed on the FA). Did this a few weeks ago. The rock and the climbing are outstanding for all four new pitches. Route finding is easy and protection is good. Super fun--nice job!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: For historical reference:



Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: Josh Smith When: Dec 12, 2010

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Comments: Nice job, Lee!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: The route was TR'd a number of times before I bolted it, and I think the bolt placements are just fine. I would also give the route one star, since I don't think it's nearly of the quality of a lot of the other routes out there, but I believe it's still fun and worth climbing.

It's unfortunate that JeremyA and Orlando feel as they do about the bolts, but that's certainly their prerogative. The value of Mountain Project is that it allows people to share opinions and beta on routes, and that inc... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: "Hellen Keller with a drill." Hum...not exactly a tone to inspire dialogue. I guess I'll take that comment to be worth about the $0.02 Jeremy gives it.

Thanks, Jason, for your thoughtful and reasonable responses.

For others who venture by this page or the route, I've always felt that sport climbs essentially belong to the climbing community once they're established, and have moved a number of bolts to make a route better suited to a wider group of people if it seemed reasonable. However, not ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Parallel Universe (5.12a/b)
By: Josh Smith When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: Rare to find such clean rock on a Sandias route, bottom to top, on such a terrific natural line. Highly recommended


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Werepig (5.11b/c)
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, John. Glad you had the chance to check it out. It's been a nice haven during the hotter months.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 14, 2009

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Comments: Ken, George and I went up and climbed the route again last night (It's better than I remembered, which is always a nice surprise). I checked all the bolts, and the loose hanger was the fault of my poor choice of placement. It was resting on a sharp point of rock, which must have busted at some point (maybe when you fell). I tightened it and that may not happen again, but I really need to go back with a hammer and flatten the rock behind the hanger so it seats properly against the rock. I'll do t... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Josh Smith When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: The route left of Grendal has 3.5" Powers SS wedge bolts. I'm sorry to hear that two of the nuts were loose--as Jason said, we've been trying to check and re-tighten nuts because it does seem to be a bit of a pattern out there. I've yet to see a stud that seems loose, and I have seen the same hanger issue with a Powers (Rawl) 5 piece, so I don't think it's the bolts (I sure hope it's not, though if it is, we need to know). I've also not seen anything loose after I re-tightened, but I haven't bee... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 18, 2009

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Comments: Will, do, Jason--looks like it will be hard. Thanks again for the work on the route. It's a super fun outing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: Nice route! Kudos to the FA party, and thanks for the hard work on it. On the raps: First rap: we rapped off the tree to the belay at the top of P5 (~140ft). On the second rap, we went all the way to the Living Room ledge with no problem. The pull is easy, and you don't have to do the swing over to the intermediate anchor with the link and the difficult pull. We did leave a draw on that anchor since the pin doesn't have a link. Gear: we didn't have offset aliens (just the regular kind) and the p... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Josh Smith When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: This is a pretty new area, and many of these routes have only been climbed a few times. The rock is also pretty soft, so BE CAREFUL. It can and will break. Some of the routes are still a little dirty as well (some will likely always be), so if be prepared for that. Please use the trails as much as possible to keep the grass from getting demolished.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Monster Slayer (5.13a)
By: Josh Smith When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: First climbed by Peter Gram after a lengthy siege by numerous folks. The second ascent was by a visiting hardman named Jerry from Slovenia who onsighted it without breathing hard (he also went on an onsighting spree at the Dungeon, seriously impressing us locals). I think it's probably 13a. Peter thought it might be 12d. Jerry thought 13a, but he could have just been being polite. Regardless, it's in that range.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Rainbow Dancer (5.11a R)
By: Josh Smith When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: The first pitch is a vertical garden, but after that it gets a lot cleaner. On P1, after about fifty feet, you have a choice of going left to a prominent dihedral, or slightly right up groves to the main dihedral above. Both are kind of loose and dirty, but the right variation is more direct and slightly easier. Both end at the 1st bolted anchor.

Last pitch, I strongly recommend the left variation if you don't mind thirty feet of 5.6R at the start (the rock is great). The left exit dihedral is... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Left End : Schmeming (5.12a/b)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Not that it matters, but I did it before the bolts went in. Spicy. Good route, and better now that it's better protected.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : Airbus (5.11 PG13)
By: Josh Smith When: Jun 22, 2008

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Comments: I can't think of another OW of this quality within several hours driving. Classic overhanging bomb bay start with almost 80ft of excellent 10- OW above. Excellent vision, Aaron!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: Josh Smith When: Sep 21, 2007

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Comments: In response to Josh Janes' comment, I believe we were on route for P3-5, and this description and the beta photo I just posted might help. The photo and comments need to be viewed together.

We did the route with a 70m cord. I thought it worked fine. I’m only putting in detail for 3-5, since they seem to cause the most consternation and the other descriptions on MP are pretty comprehensive for the rest of the route.

  • P1 - 10+. Start not shown. Run two pitches together. Reach 2ft right at...
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