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Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick


Member Since: Mar 7, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Josh Olson


Point Rank: # 1,661
Total Points: 360
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 1
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Olson been climbing?










Contributions


All 707 | Routes 8 | Areas 2 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 400 | Stars 101 | Ratings 74
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Josh Olson When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: I'd say sex weed is good enough for a convenience anchor, but it isn't really my call. I seem to remember the anchor being a bit weird, but it has been a while.

I heard the dead tree atop the 5.6 dihedral fell out? Probably makes that anchor a bit harder to establish.

The arete between the 5.6 and 5.7 dihedral goes, I think. Haven't sent yet, but some of you guys might be a bit stronger, looked like a good addition. Especially if the hard routes are getting some love, it'd definitely be worth ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Lost Temple : Lost Temple Corner (5.6)
By: Josh Olson When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Stellar route, very heads up for a 5.6 leader, but absolutely stellar.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : No Time to Linger (5.9)
By: Josh Olson When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, but it is short. Definitely a one move wonder. Could be led with the proper cajones, but the gear is post crux and the landing is sloped something nasty. It'd be worth two or three bolts, but other routes deserve the hardware more.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: Josh Olson When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I disagree, I climb it as one.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Josh Olson When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Not to mention that crack has been led dozens of times on gear.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Josh Olson When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: Swiss Cheese did NOT need any more bolts.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Split Tower : Moon Walk (Waning) (5.8)
By: Josh Olson When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Any chance of gear on this route?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : The Right Twin (5.7)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Love clipping pitons pre-crux. The gear on this route is definitely all there, but the fall from anywhere would probably get pretty awful pretty quick. Exciting route, for sure.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : September Wall : Fall Is Near (5.7)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Good consistent lead. Rock is a bit suspect in spots, and the feet seem to disappear for just the crux move, but it is a good route.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : September Wall : S Darko (5.5)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: I know it is tempting to use the face and the little crack on the left, but don't. Way short, the belay ledge is covered in foliage but nice and flat.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : September Wall : Equinox (5.5)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Blue, red, and pink tricams protect this pretty well, surprisingly fun little climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : September Wall
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Before the bench and lookout, somebody has put up two pieces of survey ribbon. Walk between these in a straight line to get to the top of the cliff. The good approach to the base for leaders is to the west, heading east is a bit tricky.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Devils Doorway : Bloody Finger (5.6)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: So short, so sharp, worth it once. Impossible Crack is way better.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Bouldering : Hillbilly Highball / Mossto... (V2- PG13) : Photo
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: This used to be in the database, but I cannot for the life of me remember what it was called.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : February Wall : Bread and Jam (5.7+)
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: A #3 ballnut makes the start a bit more secure. Great jams up high, 4 stars if it were longer.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Lost Face Finger Crack (5.7)
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Traversing into Overhang II from this finger crack is superb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - North Woods : North Slope : North Country Crack (5.7)
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Good consistent climbing, good movement, super straight forward access, one of the most surprising finds at the lake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Crashing Rock Wall
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: There is a face to the left of these documented climbs with a couple short but good routes/boulder problems. Area is definitely worth a visit, but it stays pretty wet after a rain.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Crashing Rock Wall : Barefoot Bomber (5.4)
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: There are 3 different little sub 5.5 climbs in this corner. Fun little area to set up a toprope for newer climbers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Crashing Rock Wall : The Blackboard (5.10b)
By: Josh Olson When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: If the arete is on, it is a pretty good lead, felt 5.9+. If not, it is a little thin. Micro cams and ballnutz help.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : Sex Weed (5.10b)
By: Josh Olson When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Super short, like the rest of the hollow, but a quality addition. Felt easier than Zig-Zag?
Anchor takes a while to figure out.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Josh Olson When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Good call Chris. Would have been interesting, to say the least.

Mr. Thompson, do you know who S.P.L.T. Image is? He has done a fair few services for the Wisconsin climbing community.


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Josh Olson When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: I'm popping some popcorn for this response. Might I suggest moving it to the forum for the general amusement of all?


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Boulder Bash 2012 : Photo
By: Josh Olson When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: To Register

I don't know about you, but I'm stoked.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : Sex Weed (5.10b)
By: Josh Olson When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: I've been bouldering lately, (damn you Godfather) but it'll be soon. Real soon.


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