Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Smilin' the Hard Way (5.12a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt 11c, but pretty contrived with the CCK crack a few feet to the left and much easier terrain just around the corner to the right. More like a silly variation to a very good route.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some thoughts:
Though this route is called the North Ridge, it feels more like the West Ridge as it takes the side of the tower facing Washer Woman and gets some afternoon sun.
Approaching the tower from the south side is easy following a well-defined climbers' trail. This leads to the notch between Monster and Washer Woman - gaining the notch requires 4th class scrambling, and then once at the notch you can scramble along the it to the belay atop the 1st pitch, but this last little bit is exp... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Convent : The Value of Audacity (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great first pitch that is unfortunately totally ruined by hopeless rope drag. The upper crux is spectacular as well, but the rest of the climbing (not to mention the approach) is mostly a pile.
The line to do appears to be Choir Boyz which as Scott says makes for 5 smooth raps with a 70 from the summit.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : South of Heaven (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchor atop the formation was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
All of the pro bolts appear to be in good shape. Only one of the two pins remain, but the climbing leading up to the first bolt can be sewn up with 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 Camalots.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pro bolt and the bolted anchor atop the formation were replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.
The second pro bolt appears to be in good condition and while the final two pro bolts are showing signs of age, both can be backed up with decent cams (0.5 Camalot).
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : Slatanic Area
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted anchor atop the formation was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was standing with my right foot where his left foot is in the photo. My left foot wasn't quite on the "ledge" (it was a little too far left and down still), and the flake was still a little out of reach.
I remember seeing more solid rock out right, but I wasn't sure if I'd then be able to move left to the flake. Not knowing, I wasn't about to wander even further away from that bolt - it was either straight up or straight down (one way or another)!
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yesterday I hiked out to the Astro Domes to climb Such a Savage. That went quite smoothly so we decided to finish off the day by trying Astroturf (I had climbed Figures on two occasions in the past and had always admired the cool flake feature). If, as Bob Gaines posted, "The 10a runout is on solid, incut finger edges", then how bad could it be?
Well, I clipped the fifth bolt and launched upwards. Hmmm, the edges were mostly good and mostly positive, but higher up the biggest holds seemed awful... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I'd just like to say that my impressions of the rock quality might be wrong on this one... I wasn't there, but heard second hand about this pitch apparently being zippered recently on an onsight attempt - certainly a good argument in favor of there being bolts =)
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Tour de Pump (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have just the opposite thought on the route: I found the climbing through the first three bolts to be interesting (though I agree somewhat awkward) and what makes the route in my opinion. Beyond that things revert to standard Red Rocks pulling.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Uncarved Block (5.11b/c R)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So is this route A0 (last pitch) or does it go completely free?
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know what the undocumented route right of Choad Warrior is? Or the two undocumented routes between Marshall Amp and Stratocaster?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for finishing the job!
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for replacing these! Did you use "The Device"?
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg Barnes and I replaced three or four of these on a route in Red Rocks a few years back. Being that they are 3/8" and have "Petzl" stamped on the head, at a glance they look like good bolts... Yikes!
|
Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : The Stump : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing!!!
|
Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : The Stump : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW!
|
Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : The Stump : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : The Right Stuff (5.11b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pitch 1 anchors on this route were replaced courtesy of the ASCA in 2012. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Jupiter II (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lone pro bolt on the third pitch was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2012. Also, the first pitch anchor, which previously consisted of one good bolt and one bad one, has been updated. The two 3/8" studs from these replacements still need to be pulled/patched.
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Josh Janes When: May 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never climbed there, but have hoped to make the time for years now. Eventually I will. I also love finding out beta on new (for me) areas and climbs to go check out - usually through photos or posts on the internet.
When the info's not readily available, I usually ask questions, use google satellite imagery, and just go out there in person and explore. This is a lot more work and often results in adventure or wild goose chases, but there is reward in that too. I always thought Harts ... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : Old School Executioner (5.12+)
By: Josh Janes When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah!!!!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Howl's Moving Castle (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After exchanging a few emails with "anonny moose" about this route, I should say Howl's may have been climbed, either aid or free, beyond the first two pitches prior to Josh and my ascent. We'll call ours the first recorded ascent (it may or may not be the first free ascent). I'd like to give credit where it's due, but regardless, it's a fun line that deserves to be put out in the public domain for others to climb and enjoy.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Chips and Salsa (5.3)
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a reportedly loose/dangerous anchor bolt on this climb as of April, 2012.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding bolt replacement:
- The anchor immediately below the crux pitch is good.
- The first pro bolt on the crux pitch is a 1/4" er and in bad shape. It is my opinion that it should be pulled and not replaced as there is a bomber blue TCU/green Alien placement right next to it and a bomber wire a few feet higher. These placements are actually more in line with the climbing as well.
- The second pro bolt on the crux pitch is a 3/8" er, in apparently decent shape except for a thin Leeper hang...
more >>
|
RSS Feed
