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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes


Point Rank: # 46
Total Points: 7,775
Last Year: 358
Last 30 Days: 18
295 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3267 | Routes 467 | Areas 156 | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 206 | Posts 308 | Stars 2001 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: I wrote it because I've done it. On one of the final raps you have to swing into the vegetated corner on the right. From there you can continue rapping to the ground. If you want to only use the bolted stations then yes, you need either an 80 or two ropes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: 2 days ago

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Comments: "An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch."

An old piton, predating the first complete ascent?
An old piton, predating the first free ascent?
Was there other evidence of passage or of a bail anchor? If not, would it be safe to assume the first ascent had already happened (certainly the first four pitches had already been done)?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Josh Janes When: 4 days ago

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Comments: We also climbed the left side of the rubble pyramid (which was relatively painless), but we descended via the left side as well from a tree with rap slings that you will pass on your way up. This brought us right back to our packs.

I hate to be the lone dissenter here but I thought Nelson's superlative description of the quality of this finger crack is a little bit of a stretch. The crack is in no way sustained (rests every few feet) and it has plenty of hollow rock and crispy holds - it would... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Anyone have good beta for approaching the start of the Nautilus?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Whoever rebolted the routes on the left half of the Trophy - your effort is much appreciated (glue in's are the right choice for that crag)! If you need some help learning how to avoid making a glue mess/overfill, please contact me and I'd be glad to share some tips. Also, it is possible to camo bolts by spray painting them at home rather than doing it at the crag (and getting overspray all over the rock itself).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: But evidently they don't if you've had to replace them.

Mountain Dreamer, I do a lot of rebolting work myself - I'm on your side and not trying to criticize or argue with you. You should consider getting in touch with the ASCA - if you're doing rebolting work they will provide you with the best hardware possible (even the glue!), so the only expense would be your time and labor (which I understand is considerable).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: While I'm thankful for your efforts, in the future consider using proper (stainless) glue ins next time: something that will not rust or crack. Unfortunately glued in pins will likely leave a huge mess when they eventually break down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Because my description is sooooo baaaad. Classic case of petty Gunkie squabbling about their precious tiny piece of real estate.

Does the description get you there? Yes. Does it tell you where the line goes? Yes. Does it tell you something about the quality of the route and the protection? Yes.

Sorry I didn't write a ten paragraph description for this 50' rock climb. It's not like it's the Rainbow Wall , the Moonlight Buttress , or even the ?Yellow Wall?... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Bromancing The Stone (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: "Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Juniper Canyon parking lot and directly below the face"

Is this a typo that should read "...before the Pine Creek parking lot..."?


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Dirty Wall : Planet Gone Mad (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: A contender for the best 5.12d sport route in Southern Nevada.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Pablo Diablo Direct Extensi... (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Adds little to the difficulty of Pablo Diablo and much to the experience. In fact, I'd argue that the lower arete is closer to 5.13 and the extension itself 5.12- at the most... But what a wild feature to look at and climb!

Fixed draws under the roof make this a bit easier to clean (after tagging the anchors and hucking off from above the roof of course).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kung Pao Cat (5.12b R)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Squeezed in, yes, but hands down the best route of the three. If it were me I'd chop the piles to the right and left and leave this beauty. Problem solved!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Desert Wave (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: A sister route, Off the Lip, climbs past the first bolt and then follows the exposed lefthand arete at 5.10d past a few gear placements and two more bolts to the same crappy anchor. Beware a brief-case sized loose rock that forms the structure of the arete halfway up! One star.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Straight ... (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Wind Shear (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Have you climbed this? If so can you please provide more info.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Broken Ar... (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: :)


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Max, do you not like my Mountain Project descriptions?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : A Nasty Gash (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: A good route that deserves more attention. Easily goes in one pitch.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : Main Wall : The Gold Card (5.12a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Is calling this Gold Card Indirect a typo?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Miss Conception (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: P1 (5.9): Gear, then two bolts.

P2 (5.10a): Fully bolted (7 bolts).

P3 (5.10c): Fully bolted (10 bolts). No run out; anchor is replaced and bomber.

Three raps back down the route with a 60m rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I updated the description to indicate that the bolts have been replaced.

I was nervous getting on this with a single set of big cams, but excited to climb a 10d "continuous OW". Fortunately, or unfortunately, this is like most Red Rocks "crack climbs": it's really a face climb. Rests throughout and I can't remember doing a single offwidth move on the whole pitch = not continuous. Despite that, this route is enjoyable (though way easier than rated) climbing with good position.

Worried about no... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : City Fathers (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: A classic route with an improbable crux that is worth the effort to locate. I supplemented the bolts with a green and yellow Alien. The anchor could benefit from proper lowering hardware.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this again last week and updated my description. It is indeed R in two spots. The traverse pitch is easy if you skip the final bolt (still well-protected) and step down before moving over to the belay - I can see how it would feel like the crux if you get greedy and try to clip the final bolt before doing the move.


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