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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes


Point Rank: # 46
Total Points: 7,802
Last Year: 386
Last 30 Days: 39
295 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3250 | Routes 467 | Areas 156 | Photos 118 | Page Improvements | Comments 202 | Posts 301 | Stars 1989 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: Whoever rebolted the routes on the left half of the Trophy - your effort is much appreciated (glue in's are the right choice for that crag)! If you need some help learning how to avoid making a glue mess/overfill, please contact me and I'd be glad to share some tips. Also, it is possible to camo bolts by spray painting them at home rather than doing it at the crag (and getting overspray all over the rock itself).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: But evidently they don't if you've had to replace them.

Mountain Dreamer, I do a lot of rebolting work myself - I'm on your side and not trying to criticize or argue with you. You should consider getting in touch with the ASCA - if you're doing rebolting work they will provide you with the best hardware possible (even the glue!), so the only expense would be your time and labor (which I understand is considerable).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Puppy Love (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: While I'm thankful for your efforts, in the future consider using proper (stainless) glue ins next time: something that will not rust or crack. Unfortunately glued in pins will likely leave a huge mess when they eventually break down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Because my description is sooooo baaaad. Classic case of petty Gunkie squabbling about their precious tiny piece of real estate.

Does the description get you there? Yes. Does it tell you where the line goes? Yes. Does it tell you something about the quality of the route and the protection? Yes.

Sorry I didn't write a ten paragraph description for this 50' rock climb. It's not like it's the Rainbow Wall , the Moonlight Buttress , or even the ?Yellow Wall?... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Eagles Nest : Bromancing The Stone (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: "Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Juniper Canyon parking lot and directly below the face"

Is this a typo that should read "...before the Pine Creek parking lot..."?


Location: NV : Arrow Canyon : Dirty Wall : Planet Gone Mad (5.12d)
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: A contender for the best 5.12d sport route in Southern Nevada.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Pablo Diablo Direct Extensi... (5.13a)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Adds little to the difficulty of Pablo Diablo and much to the experience. In fact, I'd argue that the lower arete is closer to 5.13 and the extension itself 5.12- at the most... But what a wild feature to look at and climb!

Fixed draws under the roof make this a bit easier to clean (after tagging the anchors and hucking off from above the roof of course).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kung Pao Cat (5.12b R)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Squeezed in, yes, but hands down the best route of the three. If it were me I'd chop the piles to the right and left and leave this beauty. Problem solved!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Desert Wave (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: A sister route, Off the Lip, climbs past the first bolt and then follows the exposed lefthand arete at 5.10d past a few gear placements and two more bolts to the same crappy anchor. Beware a brief-case sized loose rock that forms the structure of the arete halfway up! One star.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Straight ... (5.11b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Wind Shear (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Have you climbed this? If so can you please provide more info.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Unknown Route AKA Broken Ar... (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: If anyone knows the actual name of this route let me know and I'll correct it.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: :)


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Max, do you not like my Mountain Project descriptions?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : A Nasty Gash (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: A good route that deserves more attention. Easily goes in one pitch.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : Main Wall : The Gold Card (5.12a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Is calling this Gold Card Indirect a typo?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Miss Conception (5.10a)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: P1 (5.9): Gear, then two bolts.

P2 (5.10a): Fully bolted (7 bolts).

P3 (5.10c): Fully bolted (10 bolts). No run out; anchor is replaced and bomber.

Three raps back down the route with a 60m rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I updated the description to indicate that the bolts have been replaced.

I was nervous getting on this with a single set of big cams, but excited to climb a 10d "continuous OW". Fortunately, or unfortunately, this is like most Red Rocks "crack climbs": it's really a face climb. Rests throughout and I can't remember doing a single offwidth move on the whole pitch = not continuous. Despite that, this route is enjoyable (though way easier than rated) climbing with good position.

Worried about no... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : City Fathers (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: A classic route with an improbable crux that is worth the effort to locate. I supplemented the bolts with a green and yellow Alien. The anchor could benefit from proper lowering hardware.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this again last week and updated my description. It is indeed R in two spots. The traverse pitch is easy if you skip the final bolt (still well-protected) and step down before moving over to the belay - I can see how it would feel like the crux if you get greedy and try to clip the final bolt before doing the move.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Over The Rainbow (West Face... (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: How are you going to get us a copy if you have it scanned but can't read it well?

If you are working on a guidebook I'm sure you have basic photo editing skills for this kind of thing. In my experience you can make a faint scan/photo much more readable by simply tweaking the contrast.

My suggestion is that you upload what you've got to this page so it can actually be useful to the community.

Also, offer to hand-off this description to someone who is more familiar with the route.

Otherwise, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Yes. Please do.

And a Lee Vining Canyon area is a fine idea.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : The Flying Buttress (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: A good route but maybe not a classic: some questionable rock and two hanging belays (one of which can be eliminated with a 70m rope) detract, but the roof pitch is memorable and there are several other fun sections. Soft for the grade?

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.10d
P3: 5.10c
P4: 5.10c
P5: 5.11a
P6: 5.10a

Link P3 (the hand crack roof/face traverse) and P4 (the long flake/short finger crack) with a 70 to eliminate one of the hanging belays.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: What does that mean? Cuz technically speaking Eric's content is located in the wrong spot (Tuolumne) and mine was in the right spot (the High Sierras)...


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