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Maltese cross.


Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Joseph Crotty


Point Rank: # 790
Total Points: 815
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 10
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joseph Crotty been climbing?










Contributions


All 842 | Routes 27 | Areas 4 | Photos 82 | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts 240 | Stars 223 | Ratings 191
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: Awesome. Time machine warps us back 100 yrs. What a study in change.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 30, 2008

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Comments: Wow, sweet time Mic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : The Narrow Gate (5.10b X)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 26, 2008

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Comments: Brad Bond and I talked and the consensus is that Brad and his partner probably did the FA about ten years ago onsight. Congrats! I spent about an hour scrubbing the slab on my lead so it's cleaned up a good bit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : The Shield (5.11 PG13)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: After the crack tapers into a left-facing corner in a sloping dish feature and the climbing eases way up climb up another 10' feet and set a bely on a nice ledge that is a bit jagged in spots. Save a gold and red Camalot for the belay. Pitch two is fairly dirty and probably gets done once every five years or so. I was scared considering this was only 5.9 climbing. I wonder where Kenny took the plunge from?


Location: CO : Attention Eldorado Climbers...
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 27, 2008

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Comments: Anybody know what the final results were of the FHRC meeting June 25th on the four Spring '08 applications?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Great action shot. I love it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: Adam,

Awesome photo!


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 6, 2008

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Comments: Moonlight Buttress Topo

Are the free grades in the topo currently accurate?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 21, 2007

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Comments: Short and sweet. I highly commend anyone that can onsight as some of the gear and moves are tricky. If not comfortable at the grade, be cautious just after the start above the ledge which has sparse pro.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 14, 2007

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Comments: Nice photo of the lower crux that captures the environment well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 6, 2007

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Comments: Position and movement mix nicely throughout. Finish requires a dash of mental stamina - embrace it.

At all key climbing junctures bomber pro is in hand. If you want to lead routes with top rope crux climbing, then journey to one of the many Front Range clip up crags.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Far Out (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 27, 2007

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Comments: Once this cleans up with some more ascents and the flakes at mid route get sorted out, it's a two star route.


Location: CO : Steck Solos Eiger in Under ...
By: Joseph Crotty When: Mar 13, 2007

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Comments: Alpinist has good historical tid bits here along with the milestone speed solo ascent.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Arms Bazaar (5.12a R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: Great line with a slight emphasis on power. I'll forgo the blow by blow gear beta, but suffice to say, if you don't properly sew up the low crux gear can rip and you will crater. On a fall from the lower roof crux two weeks ago I pulled two cams and decked from 35'. Be careful and make sure your gear is totally dialed.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Talent Scout : Powerglide (V8)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 18, 2006

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Comments: My recollection of Power Glide is that it's to the left of the problem the woman is shown on. The key hold is a crappy undercling in the roof off which you paste the feet high and make a huge toss to the top - Power then Glide. The incut on the upper face mid way up maybe out ... I just can't remember. I just recall some crazy dyno action after sick power crimping. Classic eliminate problem. I could be mistaken, but after years spent in my youth working Power Glide back in the 80s with the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Exodus (5.11b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 13, 2006

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Comments: Nice departure from the standard Genesis finish. Proper sling usage on the last few bolts of Genesis eases the rope drag for the crux traverse.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 15, 2006

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Comments: An Eldo classic with great pro and movement varying from power to sequential ballet. Probably much harder in hot temps and/or very humid days. I would be in favor of the CopperHead being removed as it is unnecessary tat.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006

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Comments: Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.

Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Breakfast Of Champions (5.11- R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006

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Comments: Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 12, 2005

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Comments: That's a great question Ivan. My guess would be probably. Either that or grade inflation has come home to roost. There are probably lots of examples in Eldo's history where an "old school" rating didn't hold up for one reason or another (i.e. first pitch of T2 comes to mind).

Specifically, on this route, I remember that in the crux wide section it was too wide to fist jam and the feet too delicate to lie back comfortably with the hands on the edge of the crack. The only alternative was to g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: In response to the question "maybe easier than 11a if you have big hands" the answer is it's not. I check in at 6'7" and have "big" hands and didn't find any advantages on this gem of a route. There seems to be an ubiquitous myth, in Eldorado in particular, that some how big folks have it easy.

Standard Eldo rack will suffice, although for comfort it would be recommended to bring two camalot 2s, one camalot 3 and one camalot 3.5.

Double 60 M ropes will put you comfortably on the ground from ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Great route with stellar movement, compact stone, and good position. As sporty as it gets in Eldo. It only lacks in length. However, the 9-ish start is rather runout and can only be recommend for the seasoned leader - blow it and your headed for the hospital or maybe worse.

I think .11c is spot on. Some previous comments seem to suggest grade deflation with height increase. I disagree. Probably the optimum height/size ratio for this climb is in the 5'8"-6'-2" range. At 6'7" I found the c... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jan 19, 2004

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Comments: The Drool/The False Drool access WARNING: On 1/18/04 my partner and I began approaching what we believed was the The Drool. We parked in the guidebook recommended large plowed pullout on the East side of CO 133. We entered a loosely wooded area interspersed with private homes and a greenhouse on the West side of 133 and began trending West/Southwest following a 6' deep ditch. Having both done what we thought was The Drool before vis-_-vis this approach and not having seen any private propert... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 26, 2003

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Comments: Did the route free today on lead. This was my first time on this superb gem. Just some background, I am 6'6" and found some very nice stems running up to the crux which where very easy for my height. At the final stem, the manky bent pin is at your chest and a very bomber #10 BD nut can be placed about 1.5' above the pin. Just below the pin there is a slot for a Lowe Ball, but we didn't have one. I feet the mantle crux checks in at .11a.

My partner Jim, 5'11", had no problem with the... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 23, 2002

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Comments: Completed the middle route on the North Face of Notchtop III AI 3+ today, 11/22/02. The first ice pitch is thin and constitutes the crux. Both the second and third ice pitches are in and pretty much a walk up. Just the usual battles with frozen turf and tools bouncing off hidden rocks while spindrift pours down your neck. Avalanche danger was moderate with a few pockets of considerable near the exit at the top. CAUTION: The top layer of snow has formed a nice firm crust that once loaded wi... more >>


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