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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great action shot. I love it!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adam,
Awesome photo!
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Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moonlight Buttress Topo
Are the free grades in the topo currently accurate?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short and sweet. I highly commend anyone that can onsight as some of the gear and moves are tricky. If not comfortable at the grade, be cautious just after the start above the ledge which has sparse pro.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo of the lower crux that captures the environment well.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Position and movement mix nicely throughout. Finish requires a dash of mental stamina - embrace it.
At all key climbing junctures bomber pro is in hand. If you want to lead routes with top rope crux climbing, then journey to one of the many Front Range clip up crags.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Far Out (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once this cleans up with some more ascents and the flakes at mid route get sorted out, it's a two star route.
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Location: CO : Steck Solos Eiger in Under ...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alpinist has good historical tid bits here along with the milestone speed solo ascent.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Arms Bazaar (5.12a R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line with a slight emphasis on power. I'll forgo the blow by blow gear beta, but suffice to say, if you don't properly sew up the low crux gear can rip and you will crater. On a fall from the lower roof crux two weeks ago I pulled two cams and decked from 35'. Be careful and make sure your gear is totally dialed.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Talent Scout : Powerglide (V8)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My recollection of Power Glide is that it's to the left of the problem the woman is shown on. The key hold is a crappy undercling in the roof off which you paste the feet high and make a huge toss to the top - Power then Glide. The incut on the upper face mid way up maybe out ... I just can't remember. I just recall some crazy dyno action after sick power crimping. Classic eliminate problem. I could be mistaken, but after years spent in my youth working Power Glide back in the 80s with the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Exodus (5.11b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice departure from the standard Genesis finish. Proper sling usage on the last few bolts of Genesis eases the rope drag for the crux traverse.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An Eldo classic with great pro and movement varying from power to sequential ballet. Probably much harder in hot temps and/or very humid days. I would be in favor of the CopperHead being removed as it is unnecessary tat.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.
Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Breakfast Of Champions (5.11- R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a great question Ivan. My guess would be probably. Either that or grade inflation has come home to roost. There are probably lots of examples in Eldo's history where an "old school" rating didn't hold up for one reason or another (i.e. first pitch of T2 comes to mind).
Specifically, on this route, I remember that in the crux wide section it was too wide to fist jam and the feet too delicate to lie back comfortably with the hands on the edge of the crack. The only alternative was to g... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: In response to the question "maybe easier than 11a if you have big hands" the answer is it's not. I check in at 6'7" and have "big" hands and didn't find any advantages on this gem of a route. There seems to be an ubiquitous myth, in Eldorado in particular, that some how big folks have it easy.
Standard Eldo rack will suffice, although for comfort it would be recommended to bring two camalot 2s, one camalot 3 and one camalot 3.5.
Double 60 M ropes will put you comfortably on the ground from ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route with stellar movement, compact stone, and good position. As sporty as it gets in Eldo. It only lacks in length. However, the 9-ish start is rather runout and can only be recommend for the seasoned leader - blow it and your headed for the hospital or maybe worse.
I think .11c is spot on. Some previous comments seem to suggest grade deflation with height increase. I disagree. Probably the optimum height/size ratio for this climb is in the 5'8"-6'-2" range. At 6'7" I found the c... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Drool/The False Drool access WARNING: On 1/18/04 my partner and I began approaching what we believed was the The Drool. We parked in the guidebook recommended large plowed pullout on the East side of CO 133. We entered a loosely wooded area interspersed with private homes and a greenhouse on the West side of 133 and began trending West/Southwest following a 6' deep ditch. Having both done what we thought was The Drool before vis-_-vis this approach and not having seen any private propert... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Apr 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route free today on lead. This was my first time on this superb gem. Just some background, I am 6'6" and found some very nice stems running up to the crux which where very easy for my height. At the final stem, the manky bent pin is at your chest and a very bomber #10 BD nut can be placed about 1.5' above the pin. Just below the pin there is a slot for a Lowe Ball, but we didn't have one. I feet the mantle crux checks in at .11a.
My partner Jim, 5'11", had no problem with the... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completed the middle route on the North Face of Notchtop III AI 3+ today, 11/22/02. The first ice pitch is thin and constitutes the crux. Both the second and third ice pitches are in and pretty much a walk up. Just the usual battles with frozen turf and tools bouncing off hidden rocks while spindrift pours down your neck. Avalanche danger was moderate with a few pockets of considerable near the exit at the top. CAUTION: The top layer of snow has formed a nice firm crust that once loaded wi... more >>
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