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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't have the correct build and/or strength to pre-clip this before the dyno and you miss it will be a long ride.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Hands In The Clouds (5.12a A0)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unique climb that combines airy position, deceptive reads, and sustained just past vertical climbing to produce a classic. Packs a heavy punch for just four bolts. True red point grade.
Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or grey/red Alien ready (AKA panic piece) for the vertical finger slot after finishing the leftward traverse before clip four. Don't bother to put a cam in the flared overhead horizontal slot as it will blow out. Also, note, you can back clean the route on lower from ?The Wisdom?... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has to be one of the slickest routes in the canyon. It's essentially a large water gully.
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Location: CO : Alien Inventor Passes Away
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rest in Peace, Dave. Condolences to his friends and especially family. His legacy lives on indeed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Ministry of Fear (5.11d X)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Q: What would be the ethics of placing a pin on this route? A: Unethical without question.
Q: It looked to my untrained eye that a marginal rurp or blade might go in near the base of the seam. I don't think Alec Sharp placed any pins, so would it be unethical to add one now? A: Yes without a shadow of a doubt.
Q: Or would it be considered removable protection? A: Fixed protection, bolts and pins, are just that.
I would think a small line of people would show up to remove said pin if it was pl... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What year is this photo from?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, I tried that but I could not get a 'biner through the old hanger due to the space the slings were taking up. Chains would help solve the problem, but I would be in favor of a new anchor per Dave's suggestion.
Phil, the "cracks" are loose flakes. Probably the only reason they are still there is fear of killing a bystander at the cliff base if you pry them off.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the last pitch is stellar and about as atmospheric as they come. However, there is just too much junk rock and bird crap on this route for it to be "classic". Combine pitches 1-3 to bypass the poor belay at Pigeon Flake. C4 #5 is the ideal size for the crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook + free e...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have been thumbing through the eBook for a few days now and it is superbly done. The new picture layout sans topos is great (i.e., Euro standard). The route descriptions are dead on. The history, bios, and anecdotes are hilarious and chalk full of pertinent data. This is the new Eldo guide gold standard. Thanks Steve Levin for the labor of love to make this a winner!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be me! Great route.
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Location: CO : Summer 2009 Flatirons Route...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two routes for the Slab have different URL's, but the description for both is the same.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Tango (5.11)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A budding classic, make no mistake about it. Currently, even though a bit dirty in spots it's just very good. If you have the moxie to send Foxtrot or Crazy Fingers don't miss out on this great finish. The belay seems dangerous with all that loose choss on the slopping shelf - would a bolted anchor a bit lower be safer?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, they are on The Rosy-Toit which breaks left from the top of P2 of Le Toit (i.e., where the belayer in the photo is standing) and joins Rosy Cruxifiction.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Physical Crag : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: James,
Beautiful. Thanks for sharing this gem. What's the original size on this pre upload to MP? Would love to use it as a wall paper for a dual screen.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe an elephant is being herded past the belayer who is now on the river wall.
Really dig the swami, Bob! That must have been the primo model you have on there - two inch multi wrap. A few "takes" on that rig and you have a weeks worth of ab work outs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Wayne being belayed by Kevin on Kickin' Chicken which starts on Wild Turkey then veers left half way up.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Mummy (5.8)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm a bit perplexed why this was bolted. Having an anchor at the top is very convenient, but the other two bolts are not needed. With a SR and a #4 Camalot it's as safe as it gets.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Wild Turkey, not Wishbone.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Climb 101 (5.12c R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note, currently, there is no fixed pin protecting the crux second pitch finger crack/roof. A mix of small cams and nuts works nicely. The R rating is unwarranted as there is just enough modern gear to keep things under control.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Extendogap (5.12c R) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob,
Thank you for posting these historical shots. Great stuff! All these photos show tremendous fitness and poise - a hallmark of hard climbing regardless of the era.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. Time machine warps us back 100 yrs. What a study in change.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, sweet time Mic.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : The Narrow Gate (5.10b X)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad Bond and I talked and the consensus is that Brad and his partner probably did the FA about ten years ago onsight. Congrats! I spent about an hour scrubbing the slab on my lead so it's cleaned up a good bit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : The Shield (5.11 PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the crack tapers into a left-facing corner in a sloping dish feature and the climbing eases way up climb up another 10' feet and set a bely on a nice ledge that is a bit jagged in spots. Save a gold and red Camalot for the belay. Pitch two is fairly dirty and probably gets done once every five years or so. I was scared considering this was only 5.9 climbing. I wonder where Kenny took the plunge from?
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Location: CO : Attention Eldorado Climbers...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody know what the final results were of the FHRC meeting June 25th on the four Spring '08 applications?
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