Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Maltese cross.


Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Joseph P. Crotty


Point Rank: # 784
Total Points: 815
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 20
26 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joseph P. Crotty been climbing?










Contributions


All 838 | Routes 27 | Areas 4 | Photos 82 | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts 240 | Stars 221 | Ratings 189
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great work, Scott, and some serious perseverance. Looks like sweet new product, can't wait to check it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Stop reading if you're attempting an on sight.

A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off.

The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right sport beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mini-ledge and righ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Apr 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Lead bolts two, three, and four were upgraded from Rawl 3/8" plated three piece sleeve to SS glue-ins. See the fixed hardware section for details. All three of the original holes were re-used. Patched old holes next to lead bolts one, five and six. Tightened all mechanical bolt hangers. Sadly, the anchor bolt hangers were very loose and exhibit typical thread damage but are still safe.

Note, a friend mentioned they thought the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Young, Blonde, and Easy (5.11b PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The position of the first bolt is poor. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left.

Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Orange Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.12b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: May 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The top two thirds consists of climbing on a bunch of really cool microwave oven sized plates. A medium sized sampling of cams up to #1 Camalot provide pro in mostly horizontal seams between plates. A tad heady but really fun after the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, the angle in the photo is still on T2 P1 in the exact spot it was before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Feb 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nothing reliable natural pro wise is available. A few inches above where the pin was you can place a #1 Camalot, but the rib of rock the outer lobes would set against is friable. Additionally, it's a shallow placement, and the rock undulates a bit making lobe engagement tricky. I always had trouble clipping the pin. The extra reach to place the cam may make it super desperate, and then it probably won't hold anyways.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Feb 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Note, the inverted knife blade above my right shin no longer exists. It was pulled while testing the placement 2013-02-17 by yours truly. It failed on a medium test pull with a hammer. It was a time bomb waiting to go off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Feb 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The old, P1 crux, inverted knifeblade was replaced 2013-02-22 with a like-for-like permit from ECSP. The old pin failed on a pull test with a hammer, and when it came out, the rock broke where it was placed. The new BD #1 knifeblade is about a foot away from the old one but a bit lower and about 4 o'clock from the old one. It does not significantly alter the difficulty as setting up from the lip to clip is still difficult given the high footing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Belladonna (5.11b R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Aug 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: RIP Jack. David, thanks for posting.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Over the Rainbow (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jul 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I can't resist and just have to chime in here.

I attempted 'Over the Rainbow' in the late '80s, probably 1988, with a friend who lived in Manitou Springs. The route was in a guidebook by John Harlin that had climbs from many areas in the Western USA. I had climbed previously, I think, twice at the Garden and enjoyed it. I had long dreamed that OTR was a classic and as being it was the longest line then on North Gateways' West face was determined to send it.

I onsighted Rainbow Bridge which was... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There are two standard rappel descents for the Black Wall; Rappel Route and D'Antonio Rappel. Either can be used to access any route on the wall, however, the D'Antonio rap requires double 60m ropes.

Rappel Route - Use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climber's left of there; Road Warrior, Good Evans and Cary Granite. A single 60m or 70m works. 70m preferred. See photo below.

  • Find long chains on a block sitting right along the edge. Rap right and stay...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.11d PG13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Apr 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Jesse, let's get this straight. What I am hearing is that the old bolts were chopped (i.e. heads sawed off) and new holes drilled and new bolts put in next to the chopped ones?


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face : ... : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Beyond "classic." This is so old school retro. The Merrell hightops have me almost flabbergasted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 11, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: ANCHOR DAMAGED

The following was reported to ACE by Mary Williams:

"I am unsure who to email regarding this, but I wanted to let someone know that one of the bolts on the anchor of The Web pulled. My friend had it pull on him, and we thought that the bolt might be stripped...."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : La Lune (5.13a) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: May 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Bob, digging the Look soft good apparel at the base. The final icing on the historical cake that confirms this was a late '80s photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Horangutan (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: May 2, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Love the head sash.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Superfly (5.12d)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments:


Location: Memorial : In Memory of Mike Neu (the ... : Post : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This is vintage '80s! Right on! RIP brother.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 2, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: JVonD, love the video of Steve Annecone. Is the sound track from 'Blodder is my Spotter?'


Location: CO : Chris Plesko heading to Ala...
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Mar 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Looks sweet. Thanks for the pics. Go Chris!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Cameron's Corner (5.11b) : Photo
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There is a third hidden pin, above pin number two, set 1' back from the block at mid route - runner required.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Shibumi (5.12b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The head wall pitch is not to be missed. Totally unique to Eldo. Its uncelebrated status hinges on its isolated location. However, getting to the head wall seam is heady. Even on follow, I was freaked out for about 30 seconds as all manner of choss must be negotiated. Props to Scott Bennett for the bold lead. I look forward to another bout with this classic.

Note both P1 and P2 anchors could use some TLC. Sorry I didn't take any photos. They work well enough, but updates would be nice. P1: I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head : Cameron's Corner (5.11b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Combine 1 and 2. This would be four stars except for the 20' of choss just before the belay. We skipped the last pitch as the start looked a bit dicey and Shibumi was calling. Note, if you don't want to do P3 you can move right about 30' (5.5) and do the 95' P1 rap of Shibumi.


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>