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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An Eldo classic with great pro and movement varying from power to sequential ballet. Probably much harder in hot temps and/or very humid days. I would be in favor of the CopperHead being removed as it is unnecessary tat.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.
Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Breakfast Of Champions (5.11- R)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a great question Ivan. My guess would be probably. Either that or grade inflation has come home to roost. There are probably lots of examples in Eldo's history where an "old school" rating didn't hold up for one reason or another (i.e. first pitch of T2 comes to mind).
Specifically, on this route, I remember that in the crux wide section it was too wide to fist jam and the feet too delicate to lie back comfortably with the hands on the edge of the crack. The only alternative was to g... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: In response to the question "maybe easier than 11a if you have big hands" the answer is it's not. I check in at 6'7" and have "big" hands and didn't find any advantages on this gem of a route. There seems to be an ubiquitous myth, in Eldorado in particular, that some how big folks have it easy.
Standard Eldo rack will suffice, although for comfort it would be recommended to bring two camalot 2s, one camalot 3 and one camalot 3.5.
Double 60 M ropes will put you comfortably on the ground from ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : C'est What? (5.11b)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route with stellar movement, compact stone, and good position. As sporty as it gets in Eldo. It only lacks in length. However, the 9-ish start is rather runout and can only be recommend for the seasoned leader - blow it and your headed for the hospital or maybe worse.
I think .11c is spot on. Some previous comments seem to suggest grade deflation with height increase. I disagree. Probably the optimum height/size ratio for this climb is in the 5'8"-6'-2" range. At 6'7" I found the c... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Jan 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Drool/The False Drool access WARNING: On 1/18/04 my partner and I began approaching what we believed was the The Drool. We parked in the guidebook recommended large plowed pullout on the East side of CO 133. We entered a loosely wooded area interspersed with private homes and a greenhouse on the West side of 133 and began trending West/Southwest following a 6' deep ditch. Having both done what we thought was The Drool before vis-_-vis this approach and not having seen any private propert... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Apr 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route free today on lead. This was my first time on this superb gem. Just some background, I am 6'6" and found some very nice stems running up to the crux which where very easy for my height. At the final stem, the manky bent pin is at your chest and a very bomber #10 BD nut can be placed about 1.5' above the pin. Just below the pin there is a slot for a Lowe Ball, but we didn't have one. I feet the mantle crux checks in at .11a.
My partner Jim, 5'11", had no problem with the... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Joseph P. Crotty When: Nov 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completed the middle route on the North Face of Notchtop III AI 3+ today, 11/22/02. The first ice pitch is thin and constitutes the crux. Both the second and third ice pitches are in and pretty much a walk up. Just the usual battles with frozen turf and tools bouncing off hidden rocks while spindrift pours down your neck. Avalanche danger was moderate with a few pockets of considerable near the exit at the top. CAUTION: The top layer of snow has formed a nice firm crust that once loaded wi... more >>
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