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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: jonathan knight When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route, James. Clipped all but the last bolt, and climbed all free it in one 140'? pitch. Did you place that old bong towards the end of the first pitch or was it there already?
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : The Recess
By: jonathan knight When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From bolted cracks in Rock Canyon to traditional crags like this one, I hope that the different styles can be respected. This is not a case of laziness or cost determining how the routes were put up. It's a matter of aesthetics and efficiency. Why waste resources and leave your trace when you don't have to?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Conflict (5.10c/d)
By: jonathan knight When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great gear lead for some added value.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Monkey Lip (5.13a/b)
By: jonathan knight When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not clipping the bolts with the exception of the one down low is the new wave now. No mullets and tights just better gear and stronger climbers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Meat Puppets (5.12d)
By: jonathan knight When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the flexy-flake (upper slab crux) the main thing that has broken, or has something else broken this season?
Marc Le Menestrel on-sighted it when he was here for the first Snowbird comp in '88. Mike Beck said that Didier tried it and fell off the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Beastie Boys (5.12d PG13)
By: jonathan knight When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad, there seems to be some confusion as to how it starts off the ledge, so I edited the location info, slightly. I think that the 5.9 variant you mention is the standard start, but I usually put in a piece or two. Nice job on the send!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gargoyle Wall : Gargoyle (5.11c)
By: jonathan knight When: Oct 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave, we should go up there and extend the first pitch and do the second. It would clean up, I think.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face (Southeast and ... : The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Ro... (5.12c)
By: jonathan knight When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a beautiful line with some of the best climbing in the canyon. It's burly, too. Great job, that's a nice way to honor their memory.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Trench Warfare (5.12+)
By: jonathan knight When: Aug 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Calling it a 2"-4" crack is misleading. I remember taking four #4 camalots and one #5 (all old BD sizes), and possibly a hand sized piece for way up in the pod. It is difficult to place the cams and the ground is really close, so be careful. Jonny sent this in an afternoon, although he stepped off instead of turning the lip. I think Brad Jackson was the first to turn the lip, calling it Wench Warfare, 13a.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Question Mark Wall Route (5.12b R)
By: jonathan knight When: Jul 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best free climbs in the range, and I imagine it has still had few ascents. It is 3 pitches in the Ruckman guide and doesn't get an "R" rating although the crux, down low, is protected by small wires and feels very committing on lead. Don't underestimate the bit at the start of the second pitch. AKA "The Beckey Route"
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: jonathan knight When: Aug 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with an emphasis on fun. There are tons of routes that can scare your pants off in LCC, but this ain't one of them. Nice work effort, too. Looking around the buttress and especially at the upper pitches, I got the idea of what it was like before. I liked the choice of line, but I didn't clip all the bolts. I had too much gear and not enough quickdraws and slings.
I only noticed a couple of bare studs sticking out when I took the time to search around. I've seen worse mes... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Accident at the Slips
By: jonathan knight When: Jun 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spoke with Deputy Sheriff Kevin Sheffield yesterday. They are pursuing a case of criminal negligence in the matter, so if climbers set up a temporary tyrolean, they should be prepared to explain. As an ex-climber and hiker, he has a thorough understanding of the situation, and has climbed at the Slips in the past. He knows how easy it is to walk around, as well.
Of course, no one knows who is responsible for setting up the traverse in question, but we ought to spread the word to those ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Accident at the Slips
By: jonathan knight When: May 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a statement from the SLCA:
"The recent tragedy at the river crossing at the Slips climbing area has brought attention to climbers’ practices on Forest Service land. Currently we have a number of un-maintained rope bridges which are used to access climbing in the Wasatch. The Forest Service has an official view about these structures: they are not permitted. As a result, if the Forest Service comes across one, they will tear it down. (They make an analogy with snowboard/ski jumps, which t... more >>
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