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Doubleissima free solo


Member Since: Apr 15, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jon Clark

Point Rank: # 1,779
Total Points: 368
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 5
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1492 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 101 | Stars 934 | Ratings 332
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: I think the quality of this route is overhyped. The line has great history and is visually awesome, but the climbing is just okay. Two easy boulder problems on pitch 1 surrounded by rambling climbing. The "money pitch" is a right side in blue collar 5.9 grunt. Cool moves around the roof to hiking up a ramp. Classic for the history only.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Wow, what a route. Awesome climbing on flawless rock.

I was able to reach the belay with a 60m rope and my partner on the ground. He was slightly down and left Sundance's 5.7 crack.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: A good looking line that is marred by limited traffic. The business section could use some excavating. The rock is quite grainy as well. However, in its current state I enjoyed a four star experience on a two star route. With more traffic it could approach classic status.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Live Free or Die (5.9+)
By: Jon Clark When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: I didn't find the start to be the crux. I thought the hardest move was at 2/3's height working with a shallow jam. The climb was filthy from runoff after a previous rain.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Maestro (5.10c)
By: Jon Clark When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: I'm in agreement with both of the above comments. This route isn't G by any stretch. I also think it is significantly harder than C-Tips and notably harder than Menace to Sobriety.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Voyager (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: The third pitch is a Red Rocks rarity being that it's a crack requiring pure crack technique. It's got it all; a burly start, followed by desperate tips laybacking, and finishing with a bit of runout face. 11b going on 11+


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Mar 3, 2015

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Comments: Classifying this climb as a sport route with a PG 13 protection rating is rather amusing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Sphinx Rock : Cleopatra (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: I enjoyed this route a lot, but found 11b pretty generous. Doesn't seem 11b when compared to Tin God, Abstract Roller Disco, EBGBs, and other climbs similar in style with an "easier" grade.

Regardless, it's another great route on the JT friction circuit.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Grand Canyon : Grand Canyon - West Wall (E... : Grand Canyon Donkey Trail (5.10a R)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: As of 1/30/15 the anchor was missing.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Yoav Cracks : Yoav Crack 1 (5.10a)
By: Jon Clark When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: AJ,

Thanks for posting this. It would be nearly impossible to find without some direction.

This is a very nice route with considerable length for Woodson. Although I found it a bit coarse and grainy in spots. The occasional footholds on the face were suspect. However, it should clean up with more traffic. Roughly 15 minutes from the Potato Chip.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Super Slide (5.10b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I found pulling the roof to be trivial and thought the face climbing for a body length or two above it was the crux.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Mrs. Socrates (5.12a/b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: One of the best single pitches I've climbed. The crux is cool, but the upper crack really stands out.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is very, very good. There are tons of real friction moves which are hard to come by in such quantity at any climbing area. I thought the first three pitches were the best and can be done in two with a 70m rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: This is an awesome route. Not simply for the seriousness, but the climbing is great. I thought pitches 5, 1, and 2 were the best, in that order. 3 and 4 are good, but weren't particularly memorable except that they protected fairly well.

I removed the tat from anchors 2, 3, and 4, but the hardware is in desperate need of an upgrade. The two bolts on pitch two are worthless.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Hang Time (5.11b PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: At 5'6" I'll second that a number of the clips are reachy. That aside, this is a great route with numerous cruxes. A bit of a sandbag at 11b.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor North : 3.3 Star Wall : 3. Steep Face (5.12a/b)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Burly climbing to start followed by a very technical and somewhat scary traverse and topped off with pumpy climbing to the top.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor North : 3.3 Star Wall : 4. Steep Slab? (5.11)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Short, but no filler on this one. One of the best routes at the crag. Moving from the jug after the crux is no gimmee. A pretty sporty route.

There are days where I feel like this is 11c and others where it feels solid 11+.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 8. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Chris,

I'm not interested in a pissing contest. I know you in person and like and respect you. If you want to amicably discuss it in person sometime that would be great. However, I think you are confused on the definition of a first free ascent. It has nothing to do with the style of protection. You bolted the thing afterall. Birdsboro is a sport climbing area not a bastion of old school, hardcore traditional climbing ethics.

As far as style goes, working (i.e. hangdogging) a well prot... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
I remember there being two bolts through the crux section.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Derek,

If I hop on a route onsight, don't hit a sequence right, am having an off day, am too tall, too short, am not familiar the the style of climbing, etc. and then decide to enter that route on MP it's okay for me to enter whatever grade I choose? Can I add a letter grade or even as much as a number grade? The grade initially entered is already somewhat of a consensus unless it is a first ascent. If that consensus then evolves within the broader climbing community of MP then I think that's... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: A 60m rope gets you to the ground. Be careful, it's close. I thought the gear was pretty straightforward and that 10+ is a bit generous. Worthwhile to climb if you're up on the ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: I think route submitters should enter the grade given in the guide. If they feel it is hard for the grade or sandbagged then state as much. I'm sure the authors got local consensus on the grades.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Macho (5.11b R)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: I led this again for the first time in four years. I found it much harder and scarier than I remembered.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Grapes of Wrath (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is somewhere between good and great (2.5 stars) and definately worth doing if in the area. Multiple cruxes separated by good stances. Play nice with the loose flake/block near the start as per the description above.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The bolt at the 1st crux is good enough to protect the moves. The hanger isn't bent, but it is a spinner. The route is spicy, but not because of the bolt's condition. If you blew the 1st crux, the fall would be short (provided you'd already clipped the bolt). I also think 11a is a sandbag as an onsight. I thought it was in the same league, but not quite as hard as the third pitch of Enduro Man.


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