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onsight soloing Atman


Member Since: Apr 15, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,736
Total Points: 335
Last Year: 72
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1325 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvments | Comments 75 | Posts 49 | Stars 835 | Ratings 333
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Derek,

If I hop on a route onsight, don't hit a sequence right, am having an off day, am too tall, too short, am not familiar the the style of climbing, etc. and then decide to enter that route on MP it's okay for me to enter whatever grade I choose? Can I add a letter grade or even as much as a number grade? The grade initially entered is already somewhat of a consensus unless it is a first ascent. If that consensus then evolves within the broader climbing community of MP then I think that's... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: A 60m rope gets you to the ground. Be careful, it's close. I thought the gear was pretty straightforward and that 10+ is a bit generous. Worthwhile to climb if you're up on the ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: I think route submitters should enter the grade given in the guide. If they feel it is hard for the grade or sandbagged then state as much. I'm sure the authors got local consensus on the grades.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Macho (5.11b R)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: I led this again for the first time in four years. I found it much harder and scarier than I remembered.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Grapes of Wrath (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is somewhere between good and great (2.5 stars) and definately worth doing if in the area. Multiple cruxes separated by good stances. Play nice with the loose flake/block near the start as per the description above.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The bolt at the 1st crux is good enough to protect the moves. The hanger isn't bent, but it is a spinner. The route is spicy, but not because of the bolt's condition. If you blew the 1st crux, the fall would be short (provided you'd already clipped the bolt). I also think 11a is a sandbag as an onsight. I thought it was in the same league, but not quite as hard as the third pitch of Enduro Man.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Afterburner Wall : Eliminator (5.11d PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't sink any locks through the crux on Seduction Line. It was desperate tips liebacking for me. As a result, I wouldn't call it a finger crack. As an out of towner, I'm not too psyched on the hike to the Afterburner area for a single pitch. But, if it's truly a finger crack I'd be interested. So, does Eliminator actually have locks, say 0.5"-1" (tips to a bit rattly)?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower One Area : Substance Abuse (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: ^^^

I climbed it again recently and didn't notice any change in difficulty. Feels anywhere from 10c to 11a depending on the day.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall : Artz vs. Parker (5.12a PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I made the walk down specifically to check out this route. Finger cracks are my favorite syle of climbing and I was disappointed with what I saw. I decided to pass. Maybe I missed out, but it just doesn't look that good.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Lizard Corner (V4)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: V4? I always thought this was considered 5.11.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I have to disagree with one point in Lee's otherwise excellent description. I strongly not recommend rapping after climbing the first three pitches. The final pitch is part of the experience. The climbing is not trivial, nor is it easy. If you rap after pitch three you'll rob yourself of a full ascent. The summitt is pretty cool BTW.

Perhaps there's no move harder than 11a on the second pitch, but the climbing is continuous at the grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cottage Domes : East Cottage Dome : Liposuction (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Cool route, but where'd you get the rating from? It's listed at 11a in both the supertopo and reid-falkenstein guides. Just curious.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : Main Wall : Monkey Boy (5.12b)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: This climb has experienced broken holds and has gotten easier as a result over the years. It was solid 12b BITD, probably 11d as it stands now.


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : d. Machismo Sector : Machismo (5.11c/d)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: A key sidepull in the crux section (bolt 1 to bolt 2) has broken. It still goes and is still good, but is notably harder; perhaps a bit more honest in the 11 c range now.


Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : No Name Crack (5.11)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: If anyone knows the name of this route or has the FA info, let me know and I will add it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : South Nuttall : The Beckoning (5.12a)
By: Jon Clark When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, a bit dirty from runoff at the top though. We approached via the walk in from Elverson Rd. We didn't get lost and it took about an hour to the base of the climb (contrary to the 25 minute approach time suggested in the guide.) We also encountered tons of poison ivy. I think I'd rap in next time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R)
By: Jon Clark When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: It was 11d BITD and the original line exited to the left near the top. The 12a supposedly comes from the direct finish which is how it is commonly climbed. I think the other cruxes are in the same ball park difficulty wise.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Can I Do It Till I Need Gla... (5.10c)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: No bees as of 4/13/13


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Lycra Perversion (5.10c/d)
By: Jon Clark When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Hardware has been updated.

Start to the left of Heart's Horizon and climb past a funky section. Mover more easily up the corner and then make the crux traverse around the arete to the right. Continue up the arete passing one more cruxy section near the top. Use caution nearing the anchor as the rock qulaity is suspect in spots. The anchor has been lowered a bit due to the dubious rock quality in the vicinity of the existing cold shuts.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: Jon Clark When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Chris,

While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes.


Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Heart's Horizon (5.10b)
By: Jon Clark When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: All hardware has been updated with 3/8" SS bolts and SS hangers. Ring anchors at the top for LO.

As far as a description goes; Follow two bolts through a cruxy alcove. Climb past three more bolts on easier but enjoyable ground to a distinct crux past the sixth bolt to the anchor.


Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Double Wave (5.10c)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: While four bolts are used for protection, this doesn't really qualify as a sport route. I can't imagine that this was rap bolted either. Some hand sized gear can be used to protect the final moves. I think a rack of nuts may also be useful. The anchors are to the right of the climb, not the left as is stated in the description.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : Tin God (5.11a/b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 21, 2013

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Comments: This route climbs a cool feature through a fairly blank water groove. I thought the move past the second bolt was atleast as hard as anything on Abstract Roller Disco. The run from the third bolt to the anchor is a bit exciting.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Fall to Grace (5.11c PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: Seemed hard for the grade. Also, I felt that the pro was closer to PG.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: ^^^Party Till Your Blind (around the arete to the left) is a competitor. It has many of the same characteristics and is perhaps a bit sportier.


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