Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Jonathan Clark When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The climber is on Arms Control not Recondite.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R)
By: Jonathan Clark When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It was 11d BITD and the original line exited to the left near the top. The 12a supposedly comes from the direct finish which is how it is commonly climbed. I think the other cruxes are in the same ball park difficulty wise.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Can I Do It Till I Need Gla... (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bees as of 4/13/13
|
Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Lycra Perversion (5.10c/d)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hardware has been updated.
Start to the left of Heart's Horizon and climb past a funky section. Mover more easily up the corner and then make the crux traverse around the arete to the right. Continue up the arete passing one more cruxy section near the top. Use caution nearing the anchor as the rock qulaity is suspect in spots. The anchor has been lowered a bit due to the dubious rock quality in the vicinity of the existing cold shuts.
|
Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : h. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris,
While you got the first redpoint on gear (which is a commendable effort) you do not have the FFA. I was the first to redpoint and used the bolts for pro. There is only one FFA. There aren't separate FFAs for different protection schemes.
|
Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Heart's Horizon (5.10b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: All hardware has been updated with 3/8" SS bolts and SS hangers. Ring anchors at the top for LO.
As far as a description goes; Follow two bolts through a cruxy alcove. Climb past three more bolts on easier but enjoyable ground to a distinct crux past the sixth bolt to the anchor.
|
Location: PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Main Wall : Double Wave (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: While four bolts are used for protection, this doesn't really qualify as a sport route. I can't imagine that this was rap bolted either. Some hand sized gear can be used to protect the final moves. I think a rack of nuts may also be useful. The anchors are to the right of the climb, not the left as is stated in the description.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : Tin God (5.11a/b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route climbs a cool feature through a fairly blank water groove. I thought the move past the second bolt was atleast as hard as anything on Abstract Roller Disco. The run from the third bolt to the anchor is a bit exciting.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Fall to Grace (5.11c PG13)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed hard for the grade. Also, I felt that the pro was closer to PG.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^Party Till Your Blind (around the arete to the left) is a competitor. It has many of the same characteristics and is perhaps a bit sportier.
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Field of Dreams (5.11d)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I approached this pitch a year or so ago via The Crucifix (11b/c) and thought it was WAY harder than that route. I'd vote for the stiff side of 11d.
|
Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : h. Numero Uno Sector : Black Is Power (5.10a/b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is at the top from the last bolt to the anchor.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : To Be Or Not To Be (5.11d R)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as the pro goes ... The first two pieces are larger camalots. Unfortunately you have to pull the first crux before you can place the second piece. You are in the groundfall zone for these moves. If you blow it here it would be very ugly as you would deck from 30+ feet. The second crux is protected well enough by the second piece (although it would be a big fall). The last crux is well protected by smaller finger size gear.
|
Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Lycra Perversion (5.10c/d)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the hardware on this route is in poor condition. Beware.
|
Location: PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector : Heart's Horizon (5.10b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the hardware on this route is in poor condition. Beware.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Kligfield's Follies (5.11d)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to protect the difficult and reachy move into the mail slot below the crux on the face, you'll need RPs. Awesome route (felt hard for the grade) and it protects reasonably well.
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Green Arch (5.11c)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nelson,
Assuming you're not trolling regarding the placement of a bolt;
The crack in the dihedral can be adequately protected with micros and small stoppers as well as small cams. This is a head's up route, particularly right off the belay and heading out right under the arch. This route isn't R (with or without pitons), but you should be solid at the grade before attempting it. This includes fiddling in hard to place albeit very necessary gear from difficult and tenous positions.... more >>
|
Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Certified Raw (5.10)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor is comprised of what appeared to be a rusty Leeper hanger with either a 1/4" or 3/16" button head tied off with a single weathered sling to a 3/8" spinner expansion bolt.
It is relatively easy to place a 3/4" cam (yellow alien) a body length below the anchor as a directional and traverse right to the Son of a Mother anchor.
|
Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll need a #1 or #2 (probably better) camalot as a directional in order to protect your second for the topout as the anchor is off to the right approximately 6-8 feet.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Enduro Man's Longest Hangou... (5.11+ R)
By: Jonathan Clark When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps the best route (certainly one of the wildest) of the approximately 150 I've done so far at the Gunks. The P1 crux protects reasonably well with an RP . It does take some dicking around to get it in. However, it's probably best to make the moves and avoid testing it. P2 is fun and well protected. P3 is freaking awesome; hard and committing with an opportunity for some big air.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Middle Beauty : Chasin' the Wind (5.11b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the risk of blasphemy, I think this route is even better than Leave It To Jesus.
|
Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : h. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As good as it gets at Birdsboro is a bit of a stretch. It's certainly worth climbing, but there are a number of lines here that far exceed this in quality.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Mar 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Being relatively short (5'6" with climbing shoes on) with average sized mitts and fingers (#2 camalot=perfect hands, 3/4"-1"=locker fingers) I found the direct start to be straightforward jamming and not at all height dependent.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : April Showers (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: David,
Check the grey Dick guide. It will sort out the starts in better detail than I can provide. The right start involves a hard crimp move which is rated 11d. Williams rates the standup start at 11a. I don't think there is that much disparity between the two starts. I also think they are both harder than 11a.
|
Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Golden Showers (5.11a PG13)
By: Jonathan Clark When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Assuming the oppositional nuts in the shallow, thin horizontal hold, the fall at the crux is safe. I've taken the fall and they held, but again, not the most inspiring gear.
|
RSS Feed
