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onsight soloing Atman


Member Since: Apr 15, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,720
Total Points: 363
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 11
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Clark been climbing?










Contributions


All 1433 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 73 | Stars 898 | Ratings 338
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Classifying this route as a sport with a PG 13 protection rating is rather amusing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Sphinx Rock : Cleopatra (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: I enjoyed this route a lot, but found 11b pretty generous. Doesn't seem 11b when compared to Tin God, Abstract Roller Disco, EBGBs, and other climbs similar in style with an "easier" grade.

Regardless, it's another great route on the JT friction circuit.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Grand Canyon : Grand Canyon - West Wall (E... : Grand Canyon Donkey Trail (5.10a R)
By: Jon Clark When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: As of 1/30/15 the anchor was missing.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Yoav Cracks : Yoav Crack 1 (5.10a)
By: Jon Clark When: Jan 8, 2015

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Comments: AJ,

Thanks for posting this. It would be nearly impossible to find without some direction.

This is a very nice route with considerable length for Woodson. Although I found it a bit coarse and grainy in spots. The occasional footholds on the face were suspect. However, it should clean up with more traffic. Roughly 15 minutes from the Potato Chip.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Super Slide (5.10b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I found pulling the roof to be trivial and thought the face climbing for a body length or two above it was the crux.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Mrs. Socrates (5.12a/b)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: One of the best single pitches I've climbed. The crux is cool, but the upper crack really stands out.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Sole Fusion (5.10c PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is very, very good. There are tons of real friction moves which are hard to come by in such quantity at any climbing area. I thought the first three pitches were the best and can be done in two with a 70m rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Jon Clark When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: This is an awesome route. Not simply for the seriousness, but the climbing is great. I thought pitches 5, 1, and 2 were the best, in that order. 3 and 4 are good, but weren't particularly memorable except that they protected fairly well.

I removed the tat from anchors 2, 3, and 4, but the hardware is in desperate need of an upgrade. The two bolts on pitch two are worthless.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Hang Time (5.11b PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: At 5'6" I'll second that a number of the clips are reachy. That aside, this is a great route with numerous cruxes. A bit of a sandbag at 11b.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor North : 3.3 Star Wall : 3. Steep Face (5.12a/b)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Burly climbing to start followed by a very technical and somewhat scary traverse and topped off with pumpy climbing to the top.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Safe Harbor : Safe Harbor North : 3.3 Star Wall : 4. Steep Slab? (5.11)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Short, but no filler on this one. One of the best routes at the crag. Moving from the jug after the crux is no gimmee. A pretty sporty route.

There are days where I feel like this is 11c and others where it feels solid 11+.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 8. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Chris,

I'm not interested in a pissing contest. I know you in person and like and respect you. If you want to amicably discuss it in person sometime that would be great. However, I think you are confused on the definition of a first free ascent. It has nothing to do with the style of protection. You bolted the thing afterall. Birdsboro is a sport climbing area not a bastion of old school, hardcore traditional climbing ethics.

As far as style goes, working (i.e. hangdogging) a well prot... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
I remember there being two bolts through the crux section.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Derek,

If I hop on a route onsight, don't hit a sequence right, am having an off day, am too tall, too short, am not familiar the the style of climbing, etc. and then decide to enter that route on MP it's okay for me to enter whatever grade I choose? Can I add a letter grade or even as much as a number grade? The grade initially entered is already somewhat of a consensus unless it is a first ascent. If that consensus then evolves within the broader climbing community of MP then I think that's... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: A 60m rope gets you to the ground. Be careful, it's close. I thought the gear was pretty straightforward and that 10+ is a bit generous. Worthwhile to climb if you're up on the ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: I think route submitters should enter the grade given in the guide. If they feel it is hard for the grade or sandbagged then state as much. I'm sure the authors got local consensus on the grades.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Macho (5.11b R)
By: Jon Clark When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: I led this again for the first time in four years. I found it much harder and scarier than I remembered.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Grapes of Wrath (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: This route is somewhere between good and great (2.5 stars) and definately worth doing if in the area. Multiple cruxes separated by good stances. Play nice with the loose flake/block near the start as per the description above.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The bolt at the 1st crux is good enough to protect the moves. The hanger isn't bent, but it is a spinner. The route is spicy, but not because of the bolt's condition. If you blew the 1st crux, the fall would be short (provided you'd already clipped the bolt). I also think 11a is a sandbag as an onsight. I thought it was in the same league, but not quite as hard as the third pitch of Enduro Man.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Afterburner Wall : Eliminator (5.11d PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't sink any locks through the crux on Seduction Line. It was desperate tips liebacking for me. As a result, I wouldn't call it a finger crack. As an out of towner, I'm not too psyched on the hike to the Afterburner area for a single pitch. But, if it's truly a finger crack I'd be interested. So, does Eliminator actually have locks, say 0.5"-1" (tips to a bit rattly)?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower One Area : Substance Abuse (5.11a)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: ^^^

I climbed it again recently and didn't notice any change in difficulty. Feels anywhere from 10c to 11a depending on the day.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall : Artz vs. Parker (5.12a PG13)
By: Jon Clark When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: I made the walk down specifically to check out this route. Finger cracks are my favorite syle of climbing and I was disappointed with what I saw. I decided to pass. Maybe I missed out, but it just doesn't look that good.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Lizard Corner (V4)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: V4? I always thought this was considered 5.11.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I have to disagree with one point in Lee's otherwise excellent description. I strongly not recommend rapping after climbing the first three pitches. The final pitch is part of the experience. The climbing is not trivial, nor is it easy. If you rap after pitch three you'll rob yourself of a full ascent. The summitt is pretty cool BTW.

Perhaps there's no move harder than 11a on the second pitch, but the climbing is continuous at the grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cottage Domes : East Cottage Dome : Liposuction (5.11b)
By: Jon Clark When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Cool route, but where'd you get the rating from? It's listed at 11a in both the supertopo and reid-falkenstein guides. Just curious.


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