Comments: I have heard people say this feels burly now: Ben, Jesse and I were out there last fall and broke both the left hand thumb catch near the lip and a nice foot for rocking over onto the slab. It definitely felt harder after that. Sorry!
Comments: Thanks to the years of effort of the Access Fund, the Washington Climbers Coalition and the great National Park Service staff, Newhalem is once again open for new routes!! The above parties in conjunction with the Vertical World climbing team, the Wilderness Society and the Washington Trails Association just built a new trail to a new mega cliff just down the road. Walk down and check it out and bring your new-routing mojo! There is a decade's worth of potential in this gorge and years of new r... more >>
Comments: Went and got on this last weekend - the good pinch is gone. Real bummer. Definitely makes it harder to set up for moving to the left sidepull for the throw. Still fun, and a little more challenging.
Comments: Consensus does seem to be around 9ish, though I heard the pinch just broke on it. Weird - it seemed solid to me. Who knows - maybe harder or easier now. Fun problem, though! check out this vid of Kelly doing it:
Comments: Whoa, did you send this rig, Gabe? I thought it was pretty rugged for a 9, anyway. Definitely 10ish. And the landing is a little tricky. You definitely want a spot - I turned my ankle by hitting the tree after blowing off going for the jug. Very fun problem, stays pretty dry, and seemed waaaay easier in low humidity conditions. That said, I sure as hell didn't send it...
Comments: This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.
But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.
Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though... more >>