Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
sending Hard Day at the Orifice


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jon Ruland


Point Rank: # 966
Total Points: 699
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 20
16 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1888 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 414 | Posts 833 | Stars 324 | Ratings 273
Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : The Hell With That (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: The bottom is way harder than 5.9. Don't let that stop you though, it's a fun route. Just be prepared.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : The Good Old Days (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: single cold shut? safe?

EDIT 4/17/15
There's a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings. Can an admin update the description?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: lol! that is awesome. dark humor indeed. =)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: lol. i offwidthed most of the way but had to do this at the crux too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: the bottom section climbs and protects a lot better than it looks. fun sporty moves down low, awesome offwidthing up top, and solid gear the whole way (just be sure to use nuts in the hollow flake instead of cams). the 10b rating isn't from any one hard move, it's due to 30 feet of unrelenting offwidth. i felt more drained from this climb than any other single pitch i can remember.

i consider this route to be a must-do if you climb at the grade on lemmon. true crack climbing like this is an abe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Coroner's Inquest (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: ditto that. a great route and the bolt isn't even necessary. amazing stemming for 40 feet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: i'd recommend this one for the route thumbnail as it shows both the sporty stuff down low and the wide stuff up high.

from this photo, having not yet done the route but planning to do it in a couple days, it appears the crux is getting off the ledge with the flowers and into the offwidth. i shall report back my findings after doing battle with this wide demon.

UPDATE 4/9/15
nope, not the crux. the crux is higher up the offwidth near the top where the face holds and feet peter out a bit.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Sky is Falling (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: you could do most of this very safely on gear but the bolts are fine. fun route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Do You Want to Live Forever... (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: really cool stemming/crack move at the crux. finish on the tao of choy crack after the ledge for what i would consider a 3-star climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: no gear for the first 20 feet but it's pretty easy. i thought the pro was solid the whole way after that. bomber cams in the layback (crux) sections.

oh and btw this route is classic if you like laybacks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: As a Detroit area native I would love to hear the story behind this routes name. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Skin Bracer (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: how is the gear on this route?


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: O_O

crack!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Balin Goes to Hollywood (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: what charles said, but i'd recommend clipping the first bolt with a long runner then traversing directly left into the corner to skip the tricky gear.

i'm not sure the corner is the crux. i did the linkup today and it couldn't have been harder than 10-. that said, it's pretty tricky if you don't find the right sequence.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : That's Entertainment (5.11)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Weird, I found the gear to be pretty good and I'm usually quite timid about sketchy gear. IIRC the bottom takes nuts pretty well.

Also, clip the first bolt with a long runner then move left into the awesome upper corner of Balin Goes to Hollywood for a much moar funner variation.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: cool, i would take you up on that but i'm not 100% sure we'll finish the route; we may end up rapping off pitch 2 depending on how we're feeling about the roof when we get up there.

thanks for the info!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Stoner's Boner (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: WARNING: ONSIGHT SPOILER
there's a perfect #1 camalot placement a foot or so above the lip of the second roof on the right-hand side. if you're hesitant about committing to the roof move like i was, it should help to have a bomber cam right in your face.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: what's the current anchor situation at the top of pitch 3? is it solid? do we need to bring webbing to rap?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: so what is it about this route that makes it a classic? this is a serious question, i'm not being contrary; just trying to figure out if it's worth going to this area to do this one climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: pretty baller, though definitely not recommended for non-climbers or non-cavers. also, knee pads are recommended unless you want bloody knees (i didn't bring them and guess what happened to me).

some people have mentioned that it gets down to less than a foot wide but this is only true at the very bottom; the higher you go the wider it gets, but also more dangerous of course.

finally, it's hard for me to even call this a climbing route. "adventure" seems like a much more appropriate ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : The Mouse Wall
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 3 years after the flame war and most of the routes still say "will update ASAP"...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: you rad, geir


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Is that a fixed #5?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: "rock scaling the mountain cliff" hahahaha!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: super gay. not that there's anything wrong with that...

seriously though, i'm not sure what the ethical problem is with taping for size when we wear rock shoes with sticky rubber designed to help us stick our toes into tiny cracks like this one.


Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!