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sending Hard Day at the Orifice


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jon Ruland

Point Rank: # 977
Total Points: 717
Last Year: 81
Last 30 Days: 2
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1951 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 417 | Posts 841 | Stars 350 | Ratings 297
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: is the roof the crux of the first pitch?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Dawn Wall Free (5.14c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: 14+ is a stretch. i thought the crux was 14c at the hardest. cool route though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Raycreational Jug Use (5.11)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: agree with geir, easy 10 till the crux and it climbs a lot better than it looks. most of the flake/crack is surprisingly solid and gobbles nuts in addition to some good cam placements. it's a pity the middle part is so crappy otherwise this might be a 4-star route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Sting Ray, AKA Geirless War... (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: yeah eric i did this route again today and i'd call it 11- now. i rated it 10+ before. still excellent.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Jumping Jehosephat (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: fun! do the start of Grain Dance for a 5.9(ish) variation. just use long runners for the traverse left after the start.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: this route is way better than double cross because it isn't all greased up from brazilians of people. just be careful at the start.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: this is the beta photo? come on now.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : The Hell With That (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: The bottom is way harder than 5.9. Don't let that stop you though, it's a fun route. Just be prepared.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: lol! that is awesome. dark humor indeed. =)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: lol. i offwidthed most of the way but had to do this at the crux too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: the bottom section climbs and protects a lot better than it looks. fun sporty moves down low, awesome offwidthing up top, and solid gear the whole way (just be sure to use nuts in the hollow flake instead of cams). the 10b rating isn't from any one hard move, it's due to 30 feet of unrelenting offwidth. i felt more drained from this climb than any other single pitch i can remember.

i consider this route to be a must-do if you climb at the grade on lemmon. true crack climbing like this is an abe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Coroner's Inquest (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: ditto that. a great route and the bolt isn't even necessary. amazing stemming for 40 feet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: i'd recommend this one for the route thumbnail as it shows both the sporty stuff down low and the wide stuff up high.

from this photo, having not yet done the route but planning to do it in a couple days, it appears the crux is getting off the ledge with the flowers and into the offwidth. i shall report back my findings after doing battle with this wide demon.

UPDATE 4/9/15
nope, not the crux. the crux is higher up the offwidth near the top where the face holds and feet peter out a bit.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Sky is Falling (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: you could do most of this very safely on gear but the bolts are fine. fun route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Do You Want to Live Forever... (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: really cool stemming/crack move at the crux. finish on the tao of choy crack after the ledge for what i would consider a 3-star climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: no gear for the first 20 feet but it's pretty easy. i thought the pro was solid the whole way after that. bomber cams in the layback (crux) sections.

oh and btw this route is classic if you like laybacks.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: As a Detroit area native I would love to hear the story behind this routes name. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Skin Bracer (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: how is the gear on this route?


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: O_O

crack!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Balin Goes to Hollywood (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: what charles said, but i'd recommend clipping the first bolt with a long runner then traversing directly left into the corner to skip the tricky gear.

i'm not sure the corner is the crux. i did the linkup today and it couldn't have been harder than 10-. that said, it's pretty tricky if you don't find the right sequence.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : That's Entertainment (5.11)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: Weird, I found the gear to be pretty good and I'm usually quite timid about sketchy gear. IIRC the bottom takes nuts pretty well.

Also, clip the first bolt with a long runner then move left into the awesome upper corner of Balin Goes to Hollywood for a much moar funner variation.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: cool, i would take you up on that but i'm not 100% sure we'll finish the route; we may end up rapping off pitch 2 depending on how we're feeling about the roof when we get up there.

thanks for the info!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Stoner's Boner (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: WARNING: ONSIGHT SPOILER
there's a perfect #1 camalot placement a foot or so above the lip of the second roof on the right-hand side. if you're hesitant about committing to the roof move like i was, it should help to have a bomber cam right in your face.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: what's the current anchor situation at the top of pitch 3? is it solid? do we need to bring webbing to rap?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Desire (5.10 R)
By: Jon Ruland When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: so what is it about this route that makes it a classic? this is a serious question, i'm not being contrary; just trying to figure out if it's worth going to this area to do this one climb.


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