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 ADVANCED
sending Hard Day at the Orifice


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 29, 2014
Contact Jon Ruland


Point Rank: # 977
Total Points: 625
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1692 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 30 | Page Improvments | Comments 350 | Posts 813 | Stars 269 | Ratings 218
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Ireland
By: Jon Ruland When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: very cool guys! looks like a great area. now i must check this crag out for myself.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Bisquick (5.10a)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: basically a roped boulder problem, the first 20 feet i would consider part of the approach. fun though, and certainly worth doing if you've done everything else in the 10 range on the upper wall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Marcy's Playground (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: did this route on saturday, certainly a good fun time. the crack gobbles gear and is a ton of fun. the bottom seems a bit soft for 11- and felt more like stiff 10+ to me. i finished in the chimney so i cannot attest to the upper headwall difficulty.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: can't it be both?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Marcy's Playground (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: what do you mean "took a hammer" to it? is the hanger dilapidated?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Sports Book (5.10a/b)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: this route is really cool because of the 15 feet of jamming and liebacking down low. if you have easy access to real cracks i can see this route not being particularly special to you.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Progressive Slots (5.6)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: agreed, this route would be a terrible first lead and is sandbagged as hell due to a very tricky start. perhaps some holds broke off?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: styling the fox while being shortroped? now that's impressive.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: hehe. stiff.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Goldirocks and the 3 Bulges (5.7 PG13)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: i climbed this again today and i changed my mind about the PG13 rating. it seems safe to me, you just have to look closely for the good gear.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: hanger replaced.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: the bolt is still sound. i'll be heading up there on saturday to replace the hanger. i should have done that a long time ago.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: great route, but anyone who thinks it's 5.9 is crazy.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Small Brown Mouse (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: haha 5.9+, that's a good one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : The Fortress
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: speaking of cleaning up a mess (yeah yeah i know it was last year) can we clean up all these routes into separate categories? e.g. orifice wall, fortress south face, etc. right now it's confusing as all hell.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : The Nursery
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: sorry about the delayed response yair. the anchor hanger on traditional fairytale has not been replaced yet (at least by me). but at least i have a good excuse (laziness). i might get an opportunity in the next couple weeks to fix that, what with the monsoon and cooler weather arriving on the mountain.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Geirful Warrior (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: too many rests on this thing to be 11- IMO, but i thoroughly enjoyed it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Golden Egg (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: we got hit with a surprise thunder storm yesterday and had to leave 3 draws on this route. if anyone is in the vicinity this week i offer tribute of beer to get them down. we should be able to get them by next weekend if they're still up there, but if anyone sees them please don't consider them booty--consider them a six-pack of your choice. =)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: reviving a (very) old debate from the comments above, i think most people who are disappointed in this climb are giving it the wrong comparisons. don't compare this route to epinephrine, east buttress of el cap, or even what's my line in our friendly backyard playground of cochise stronghold.

would you compare a single-pitch overhanging 5.12 sport route to those climbs? of course not. so why compare an easy 2-pitch route to epic multipitch, or anything else that isn't an easy 1-3 pitch trad rot... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: one of the anchor hangers came off of this yesterday as i was attempting to clean the route. the nut was loose and it popped off as i was pulling on it. i will replace it as soon as i can, but anyone aiming to do this route should be aware there is only a single anchor hanger at this time.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : BCR 5L (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: this route is retarded. it's sandbagged as all hell and there's no gear until you're 50 feet up, aside from the one bolt at the bottom. avoid.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: ok let's try a new approach. let's say this route was in yosemite. what would it be rated there?

the purpose of ratings is largely to determine if the route is within your ability level before you leave the ground and get in over your head. that's what i'm trying to do here. any help would be appreciated.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: i had been considering the roof as i had been eying the holds you mentioned. it would be a nice 10-foot or so traverse with your body pretty much horizontal. in the end i decided against putting in the work to bolt it, but i may reconsider it this season if the mood strikes me. or someone else can give it a shot. ;)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : BCR 5L (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: is the crux down low on this one around the bolt? that area looks pretty thin and the cracks above don't look 10d hard, but of course i haven't been on it yet and i could be mistaken. can anyone comment on this?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Boys (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 10, 2011

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Comments: just go 2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt and call this route 9+. it's pretty contrived otherwise.


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