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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: can't it be both?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Marcy's Playground (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: what do you mean "took a hammer" to it? is the hanger dilapidated?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Sports Book (5.10a/b)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route is really cool because of the 15 feet of jamming and liebacking down low. if you have easy access to real cracks i can see this route not being particularly special to you.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Progressive Slots (5.6)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: agreed, this route would be a terrible first lead and is sandbagged as hell due to a very tricky start. perhaps some holds broke off?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: styling the fox while being shortroped? now that's impressive.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Kibbles and Bits (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: seconded. what's with this mystery route?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: hehe. stiff.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Goldirocks and the 3 Bulges (5.7 PG13)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i climbed this again today and i changed my mind about the PG13 rating. it seems safe to me, you just have to look closely for the good gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hanger replaced.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the bolt is still sound. i'll be heading up there on saturday to replace the hanger. i should have done that a long time ago.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route, but anyone who thinks it's 5.9 is crazy.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Small Brown Mouse (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha 5.9+, that's a good one.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : The Fortress
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: speaking of cleaning up a mess (yeah yeah i know it was last year) can we clean up all these routes into separate categories? e.g. orifice wall, fortress south face, etc. right now it's confusing as all hell.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : The Nursery
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: sorry about the delayed response yair. the anchor hanger on traditional fairytale has not been replaced yet (at least by me). but at least i have a good excuse (laziness). i might get an opportunity in the next couple weeks to fix that, what with the monsoon and cooler weather arriving on the mountain.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Geir Up (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: too many rests on this thing to be 11- IMO, but i thoroughly enjoyed it!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : The Golden Egg (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: we got hit with a surprise thunder storm yesterday and had to leave 3 draws on this route. if anyone is in the vicinity this week i offer tribute of beer to get them down. we should be able to get them by next weekend if they're still up there, but if anyone sees them please don't consider them booty--consider them a six-pack of your choice. =)
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: reviving a (very) old debate from the comments above, i think most people who are disappointed in this climb are giving it the wrong comparisons. don't compare this route to epinephrine, east buttress of el cap, or even what's my line in our friendly backyard playground of cochise stronghold.
would you compare a single-pitch overhanging 5.12 sport route to those climbs? of course not. so why compare an easy 2-pitch route to epic multipitch, or anything else that isn't an easy 1-3 pitch trad rot... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of the anchor hangers came off of this yesterday as i was attempting to clean the route. the nut was loose and it popped off as i was pulling on it. i will replace it as soon as i can, but anyone aiming to do this route should be aware there is only a single anchor hanger at this time.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : BCR 5L (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route is retarded. it's sandbagged as all hell and there's no gear until you're 50 feet up, aside from the one bolt at the bottom. avoid.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: ok let's try a new approach. let's say this route was in yosemite. what would it be rated there?
the purpose of ratings is largely to determine if the route is within your ability level before you leave the ground and get in over your head. that's what i'm trying to do here. any help would be appreciated.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Traditional Fairytale (5.5)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i had been considering the roof as i had been eying the holds you mentioned. it would be a nice 10-foot or so traverse with your body pretty much horizontal. in the end i decided against putting in the work to bolt it, but i may reconsider it this season if the mood strikes me. or someone else can give it a shot. ;)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : BCR 5L (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: is the crux down low on this one around the bolt? that area looks pretty thin and the cracks above don't look 10d hard, but of course i haven't been on it yet and i could be mistaken. can anyone comment on this?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Boys (5.10d)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: just go 2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt and call this route 9+. it's pretty contrived otherwise.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Holdless Horror (5.7 PG13)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7 pg13 that's a good one
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Raven Maniac (5.12-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "This route doesn't have a move harder than 11+"
your words. i can read them but they mean nothing to me.
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