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sending Hard Day at the Orifice


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jon Ruland


Point Rank: # 966
Total Points: 675
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 15
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1820 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 395 | Posts 826 | Stars 302 | Ratings 254
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Jon Ruland When: 6 days ago

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Comments: pretty baller, though definitely not recommended for non-climbers or non-cavers. also, knee pads are recommended unless you want bloody knees (i didn't bring them and guess what happened to me).

some people have mentioned that it gets down to less than a foot wide but this is only true at the very bottom; the higher you go the wider it gets, but also more dangerous of course.

finally, it's hard for me to even call this a climbing route. "adventure" seems like a much more appropriate ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : The Mouse Wall
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: 3 years after the flame war and most of the routes still say "will update ASAP"...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: you rad, geir


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Is that a fixed #5?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: "rock scaling the mountain cliff" hahahaha!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: super gay. not that there's anything wrong with that...

seriously though, i'm not sure what the ethical problem is with taping for size when we wear rock shoes with sticky rubber designed to help us stick our toes into tiny cracks like this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Stripper (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: speaking of which, i think this climb could benefit from a few bolts. one to protect the really hard start and one to ease the runout on the upper face of pitch 2. (my last piece was 20 feet below me when i pulled the 5.7 roof above the depressed ledge but maybe i missed some pro?) bolted anchors on the big ledge above that to avoid the funky belay would be nice too.

cue purist outrage in 3, 2, 1...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Venus' Flytrap And Environs (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: This route that gets an extra star from me for the uniqueness. But there's no way this is only 5.8 if 8th and Main is also 5.8 (which it felt like to me). It's pretty casual until the crux, and then...blamo!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : 8th and Main (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Did this one again today, just the offwidth section now that I have some idea what I'm doing. Really cool offwidthing. I placed a 4, 5, and 6 in the offwidth. Could probably get away without the really big guns but they're nice to have.

This is a 1-star climb but I give it an extra star since this type of pure crack climbing is so rare on Mount Lemmon. Definitely something to do if you like this type of climbing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: nice luke. i see you enjoyed this route more than i did. that's great.

i don't think the quality of the climbing itself warranted more than 2 stars. 3 would be a stretch so it sounds like you're adding stars simply because there aren't any bolts on it. if that's what you're into then cool, but for me the lack of bolts by itself isn't enough to add stars to a route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Hereiophobia (5.10+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: nice, this might get me to actually come back to the orifice wall.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: will do. is the road to the summit open this time of year or do they close it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: this route seems overrated. it has one 4-star pitch and the rest are 1- or 2-star pitches (pitch one may even be a bomb and should not be attempted by an inexperienced leader). also the semi-hanging gear belays and traverse pitches make for logistical nightmares. i actually think adding a couple of bolted anchors to this route would improve it immensely, but it still wouldn't get more than 3 stars in my book.

i suppose if you're into long traverse pitches you'll really like this route. otherwis... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: you are right tony. it would be a waste to throw out all the ratings and comments.

yes john i'm willing to rewrite this entry but i should probably take another trip up rap rock before i do. i'll try to get up there before march 15 (when the summit crags close for falcon nesting) and climb the route so that i can give an accurate description.

my thanks to you both for being so accommodating.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: so yeah. can we get an admin to delete this incorrect and confusing entry?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: i just came


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: i like my women like i like my climbs...

covered in BEES!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: ducking fesperate!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Tree Wing Circus (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: hah! i certainly hope so.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : ...And Toto Too (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: make sure you're really solid on 5.9 before you get on this one; i saw a girl deck trying to clip the first bolt not too long ago. don't be afraid to use a stick clip or ask a stronger climber to help if you're not feeling 100% certain about this route. pride has no place where danger is involved.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Under The Witch's Nose (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: What's the gear situation like on this route? Looking at it from the ground I was sure it would be R-rated but the description makes it seem otherwise?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Munchkinland (5.10c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: this is the only "10" on the munchkinland main wall that i haven't sent yet, even after numerous attempts over the years, and most of my regular climbing partners have had similar difficulty with this climb. the upper crux is at least as hard as the lower one, and there's a lot of hard climbing you have to do before you get there. i'm ready to call this one 11-.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Caterpiller Corner (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: if you have wide gear can you start in the big ass-crack to the right?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Airgasm (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: this would probably be a 3-star route (because of its uniqueness) if there was a fixed anchor on the ledgy section just above the roof. as it stands, having done this route i don't expect to do it again since you have to keep climbing for 50 feet over shitty rock with terrible rope drag to set up a gear anchor at the top, belay your partner up, then walk off.

i volunteer my assistance if anyone wants to add an anchor to this climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Areole (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: fun route. two cruxes, the second one at the bulge being difficult to figure out. improbable sequence getting over it. loads of fun.


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