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Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Jon Ruland

Point Rank: # 931
Total Points: 766
Last Year: 122
Last 30 Days: 49
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1990 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 426 | Posts 853 | Stars 355 | Ratings 302
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : A Change Is Gonna Come (5.10+)
By: Jon Ruland When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: did this route again today. fun climbing but be very careful around the 3rd bolt, especially if you outweigh your belayer.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Valley Giant spotted.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Cripple Creek (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THIS CLIMB!

i can only attest to the first pitch since i ended up limping out of there after pulling a piece, but you should be VERY solid on mount lemmon trad before getting on this climb. the gear isn't always where you want it and you should be comfortable with "leader must not fall" situations. i was not and i paid the price (bad ankle sprain).

mistakes
mistakes



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Lights Out At Ten Candles ... (5.10a)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: crux is really tricky; jaspur and i have each hung here twice. at least it's nice and safe so an inexperienced leader expecting 10a probably won't get hurt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Modern Relic (5.10+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: this will probably be a 3-star climb once it cleans up...but right now it is DIRTY. still tons of fun though. the multi-tiered stemming roof is awesome.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : Del Salto
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: still fleshing this out mr. baker?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: yeah i thought it was a nut too until i read the comments and zoomed in.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Nail in My Coffin (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: 10- seems like a serious sandbag for this climb. the bulge move felt harder than anything on Sweeping Beauty 5.10 to the right. at least there's a bolt every 5 feet so it's unlikely an inexperienced leader will get hurt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: some advice for folks intending to lead this pitch: the nice-looking crack 50ish feet above the pictured climber is the wide section at the top of the Quick Death crack. as you can see in the photo, the whole left side of the pillar is detached from the rest of the cliff and it sounded hollow when i placed a cam in it. in addition to that, the inside of the crack is quite slick and it is possible (though i wouldn't go so far as to say probable) that if you fell trying to pull the lip above the c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: is the roof the crux of the first pitch?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Dawn Wall Free (5.14c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: 14+ is a stretch. i thought the crux was 14c at the hardest. cool route though.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Raycreational Jug Use (5.11)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: agree with geir, easy 10 till the crux and it climbs a lot better than it looks. most of the flake/crack is surprisingly solid and gobbles nuts in addition to some good cam placements. it's a pity the middle part is so crappy otherwise this might be a 4-star route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Sting Ray, AKA Geirless War... (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: yeah eric i did this route again today and i'd call it 11- now. i rated it 10+ before. still excellent.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Jumping Jehosephat (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: fun! do the start of Grain Dance for a 5.9(ish) variation. just use long runners for the traverse left after the start.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: this route is way better than double cross because it isn't all greased up from brazilians of people. just be careful at the start.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: this is the beta photo? come on now.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : The Hell With That (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: The bottom is way harder than 5.9. Don't let that stop you though, it's a fun route. Just be prepared.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: lol! that is awesome. dark humor indeed. =)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: lol. i offwidthed most of the way but had to do this at the crux too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Chicken Co-op (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: the bottom section climbs and protects a lot better than it looks. fun sporty moves down low, awesome offwidthing up top, and solid gear the whole way (just be sure to use nuts in the hollow flake instead of cams). the 10b rating isn't from any one hard move, it's due to 30 feet of unrelenting offwidth. i felt more drained from this climb than any other single pitch i can remember.

i consider this route to be a must-do if you climb at the grade on lemmon. true crack climbing like this is an abe... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Coroner's Inquest (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: ditto that. a great route and the bolt isn't even necessary. amazing stemming for 40 feet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: i'd recommend this one for the route thumbnail as it shows both the sporty stuff down low and the wide stuff up high.

from this photo, having not yet done the route but planning to do it in a couple days, it appears the crux is getting off the ledge with the flowers and into the offwidth. i shall report back my findings after doing battle with this wide demon.

UPDATE 4/9/15
nope, not the crux. the crux is higher up the offwidth near the top where the face holds and feet peter out a bit.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Sky is Falling (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: you could do most of this very safely on gear but the bolts are fine. fun route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Do You Want to Live Forever... (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: really cool stemming/crack move at the crux. finish on the tao of choy crack after the ledge for what i would consider a 3-star climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: no gear for the first 20 feet but it's pretty easy. i thought the pro was solid the whole way after that. bomber cams in the layback (crux) sections.

oh and btw this route is classic if you like laybacks.


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