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sending Hard Day at the Orifice


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Jon Ruland


Point Rank: # 981
Total Points: 660
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 13
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 1786 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 380 | Posts 815 | Stars 298 | Ratings 250
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: i just came


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: 2 days ago

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Comments: i like my women like i like my climbs...

covered in BEES!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: 4 days ago

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Comments: ducking fesperate!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Tree Wing Circus (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: hah! i certainly hope so.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : ...And Toto Too (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: make sure you're really solid on 5.9 before you get on this one; i saw a girl deck trying to clip the first bolt not too long ago. don't be afraid to use a stick clip or ask a stronger climber to help if you're not feeling 100% certain about this route. pride has no place where danger is involved.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Under The Witch's Nose (5.9+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: What's the gear situation like on this route? Looking at it from the ground I was sure it would be R-rated but the description makes it seem otherwise?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Munchkinland (5.10c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: this is the only "10" on the munchkinland main wall that i haven't sent yet, even after numerous attempts over the years, and most of my regular climbing partners have had similar difficulty with this climb. the upper crux is at least as hard as the lower one, and there's a lot of hard climbing you have to do before you get there. i'm ready to call this one 11-.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Caterpiller Corner (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: if you have wide gear can you start in the big ass-crack to the right?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Airgasm (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: this would probably be a 3-star route (because of its uniqueness) if there was a fixed anchor on the ledgy section just above the roof. as it stands, having done this route i don't expect to do it again since you have to keep climbing for 50 feet over shitty rock with terrible rope drag to set up a gear anchor at the top, belay your partner up, then walk off.

i volunteer my assistance if anyone wants to add an anchor to this climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Areole (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: fun route. two cruxes, the second one at the bulge being difficult to figure out. improbable sequence getting over it. loads of fun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lost Era (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: speaking of the death block, it may be a good idea to come up here with a crowbar and pry the thing off to avoid a future accident. i don't know what the ethics are for situations like this--do we need to ask the FA?--but pending that, if anyone wants to do it i am willing to spend a morning climbing chihuahua power then rapping in and prying the damn thing off.

without this damn block the route would easily be 2 stars, possibly 3.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lost Era (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: i would not recommend this route to anyone but a seasoned trad leader. the whole middle portion is crumbling, and there is a death block halfway up that feels like it could pop and kill your belayer if you yard on it. i basically ended up running it out 25 feet in this section since the pro i put in would almost certainly not have held (i showered my belayer with gravel when i stuck in a cam in this section).

it does climb fairly well, but i would not be surprised if the death block pops off in... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Lost and Undecided (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: be wary; the upper portion of this route has some sketchy gear.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Medicine Bag (5.10)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: this climb felt just a tad harder than Techno Savage to the left of it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: having led p2 today i can attest to the validity of the "tall person" comment, though i think it would be more accurate to say it's particularly difficult for a shorter person. i'm 5'10" (average climber height) and i just barely managed to stick a #1 camelot in the crack above the slot before pulling the move, so i had the slot open to use as a handhold. i have no idea how you would do this move without using the slot.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: huh, i've never see it from this angle. i didn't realize it had a bite taken out of it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Grips of Wrath (5.10a)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: loads of respect to the folks saying this route shouldn't have been put up, but i think it's great. i don't buy into the notion that just because you can do a route incredibly dangerously and you got there first that everybody who comes after you has to do it the same way you did.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: the "vista" portion of this climb's name is obvious in this photo. nice shot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Vistacruiser (5.7 PG13)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: mantle move at the start was hard and dangerous. not recommended for anyone new to trad.

that being said...

awesome route! very exciting for the grade. definitely do this one if you're down here doing Stems and Seeds.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Stems and Seeds (5.8+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: i brought out the big guns for p2 and placed a 4, 5, and 6 in the offwidth. the 5 and 6 aren't strictly necessary but i was really glad i had them.

and yeah, the offwidth is indeed the best part of this climb. recommended.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: ditto


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Roofer Madness (5.8+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: crux in the middle (below the roof) seemed a lot harder than 5.8+. it's possible a hold broke off because i agreed with most of the other grades at this crag.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Obama-nation (5.9-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: is this the one with 3 bulges, one of which is a roof move at the end?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: did this route today and found a rappel setup on the 2-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2. the first bolt on pitch 3 is really hard to see (it took us several minutes to find it) so my guess is somebody couldn't figure out where the route was supposed to go and rapped off.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : The Rupley Route (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: p1: pain in the ass. just do the first pitch of Steel Crazy instead.
p2: 100-foot belay transition.
p3: might be the best 5.8 trad pitch on the mountain (5.9 move at the top of this pitch is protected by a bolt).


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