Comments: Just FYI, this wall has gross landings. They slope away badly and you're going to be throwing your pads down on top of giant bushes with rocks and whatnot underneath. The lines themselves look cool, but I didn't think it was worth the effort of hiking all the way up there.
Comments: I had trouble finding this, so I thought I'd supplement the location description....
Find The Cove first, then, as you face it with Gilligan's Island behind you, follow the gully on the right of The Cove. There is a faint trail that leads to a large formation behind The Cove. Trend left and skirt the edge of the formation. You'll find The Black Pearl block around a couple of corners, it faces North.
Also, if I can weigh in on the Anteater vs Pearl vs Anteater Direct debate: Since the arete is... more >>
Comments: This problem kicked ass, but there is a loose block on the top of the prow. I tried to topout on the prow to the left and I pulled on a block and it flexed like crazy. Someone will get hurt on that eventually.
In the beta photo it shows the line going right, and I think this is much safer.
Comments: This problem took me three sessions and felt like V6+, but I was using some crazy heel beta that had me hanging on the second hand hold for way too long. I went back and sent it again with a drop knee to get the second hold and then bumped asap to the good crimp above. This way is much easier, but still harder than V5 I think. This is one of those problems that feels easy when you master it.
Comments: Why not enter this route as V7, the way Horan rated it? It can always be downgraded if you climb it and decide it's easier. I think it's V7 for sure. Also, check out the comments on the "Bongo V?" section for more stuff on ratings.