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Member Since: Jul 21, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Jon Rhoderick
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Point Rank: # 1,261
Total Points: 547
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 288 | Routes 28 | Areas 1 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 121 | Stars 40 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: I have been working this climb for several sessions now. I had taken to leaving my chalkbag at the belay ledge, because this was more convenient for everybody. On July 23rd, I left it there around 6PM and when I returned at 10AM the next day I found that my chalkbag had been removed.

Does anyone know who took my chalkbag? I would really like it back, and it was helping the entire community by making this testpiece more accessible. Anyone who helps get my chalkbag back to be will be rewarded ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Resuscitation (5.12c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: glad to see this is getting a lot of sends this summer! I doubt it had been sent in 4-5 years before Wally brushed the cobwebs off.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Full Clip (5.12+)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: TR'ed this yesterday, what a stellar route! Most of the locks are really good, sometimes sharp. I didn't find that no hands rest but to be honest I would probably prefer a no feet rest!


Location: General Climbing : A Lee Smith Spin-off - Na... : Post : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: der Sportsman!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Regarding Golden Desert & A5:
Are they 12c& d in relation to the new pitches or is there new beta or were they overgraded originally?
Congratulations on your new free route! Truly inspiring
Jon


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Vesper (5.14a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: 2nd Ascent by Inge Perkins


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (4) Mud Pile : Spankie's Quest For The Nec... (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: haha what an oddly named obscure route for the 700th route in the database!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : The Sheepgate (5.11c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes on the East Side. Bomber pro bottom to top, and great movement from jamming, tips, stemming, and dynamic pumpy climbing up high. Think Master Looney on top of Neutral Zone, and then some. Why aren't people lining up to do this one?
Bring doubles of purple Metolius to Gold Camalots and shoulder length sling to sew it up.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Quest to Fire (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: I've tried this route several times and I really tried to like this route. First this climb is really hard! After the 3rd or 4th bolt, there are only very strenuous rests. The crux comes after your very fatigued and it's very hard for 12a. Here's the thing: you can use the same exact hand holds and stem to the right and get a great rest instead of doing the absolute hardest moves of the climb. The anchors are placed low and to the right to disuade you from using the left wall.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Northern Lights (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I think 11d is fair, it didn't feel anywhere close to the same realm of difficulty as Just Say Yes that I tried on the same day.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (uu) Easy's Playhouse : Big Boss Man (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Apr 24, 2015

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Comments: The first two bolts are now out of the rock, making the crux go on only one bolt. This is frustrating because it pulls the belayer into the climber for a possibly injurious fall. No way its 12c, I assumed it was 12a and that seemed about right.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Erogenous Zone (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: 10c is the grade going straight up, not into quasar. When you get to the top, it is tricky to clip the anchors. I didn't find any holds to pull around to the other side (Quasar), but you can clip the anchors from E Zone and call it good.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Neutron Star (5.12-)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: All fixed gear has been replaced with new bolts. Go for it!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Dark Star (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: All the pins have been pulled, and replaced with 3 bolts. There was a debate whether to retain the lowest bolt, but maybe 3 inches below the pin placement is a very bomber nut placement. I have fallen on both the pin and the nut, I felt a little more comfortable on the nut. Kent said that the 1st pin came out with 2 or 3 taps, another pin snapped it's head off and is still insitu. Because there are only 3 bolts I think this climb retains a lot of the excitement it had when it had pins. This... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gateway (5.11) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Geologic Time is the triangular roof to the right in this photo, exiting around the left side of it into a stemming crux


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Out Ridin' Fences (5.11+)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: Great route, can definitely be climbed safely with a double rack. Save a .5 or metolius orange size for your last piece, and use your purple metolius/green C3 sized pieces after the juggy sequence, that's the only part that feels punchy.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latest Rage (5.12b) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: This is actually a photo of Latest Rage in the Dihedrals


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gateway (5.11)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: There are two options for finishing
You can skirt left to the Steelhead anchor, which gives you a nice TR for that climb, or you can head up and right. Going up is another 15 ft of high quality face climbing protected by a finger sized cam, so make sure you have one left. If you don't have one going left would be a reasonable idea.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Sunshine Dihedral (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: I'll go with PG-13. The gear is pretty frequent, the bolts and pin are great, but don't expect to just plug and chug. I ripped 4 pieces up high, they never even slowed me down!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (n) Snake Rock : Lords of Karma (5.12c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Take the grade with a grain of salt. Probably harder than Churning or Kings, easier than Go Dog Go. 12c at Smith means different things to different people.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Picnic Lunch Wall (5.7 A3)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: I have no idea how to rate this on the aid scale, it is quite safe practically the whole way, but some hook moves and very sandy/marginal placements make for slow going.
P1 hard move off the ground, this pith has the longest continuous bolt-free section.
P2: Free it all the way to the final bolt ladder! The cam placements under the roof are VERY bad, but it's only 5.7
P3: mostly free/French free except the start and end.
P4: Free Variation to the right is quick and easy to French free, tric... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Karate Wall (aka Powerline) (5.12b) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: If you don't have cojones the size of Phillip you can place a Black Metolius or .75 C4 in the pocket his foot is in.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe Jardine yoyo'ed it or hung dog it and claimed the FA? Hudon led it without cams placing all gear on lead, and partially dislocated his shoulder on the ascent.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Fun Churning Buttress Linku... (5.13a/b)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: Andrew wouldn't the hardest be ALL of vicious fish into Ozone (vicious tapeworm)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Oxygen (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: First thoughts on this route:
Like most routes at smith described as technical or "girly?", I didn't find the route devoid of powerful moves. The crux hits between bolts two and four, working up a large but sloped side pull feature. From the 4th bolt up the climbing is 12- resistance climbing until you reach glory jugs. There might only one okay rest hold on the entire route. Compared to Dakine the route is shorter with a slightly harder crux and less rest, but the holds are nicer on the finger... more >>


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