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Member Since: Jul 21, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Jon Rhoderick


Point Rank: # 1,374
Total Points: 418
Last Year: 229
Last 30 Days: 25
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (161) | Routes (21) | Areas (1) | Photos (33) | Comments (28) | Posts (54) | Stars (21) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Karate Wall (aka Powerline) (5.12b) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: If you don't have cojones the size of Phillip you can place a Black Metolius or .75 C4 in the pocket his foot is in.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe Jardine yoyo'ed it or hung dog it and claimed the FA? Hudon led it without cams placing all gear on lead, and partially dislocated his shoulder on the ascent.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Fun Churning Buttress Linku... (5.13a/b)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: Andrew wouldn't the hardest be ALL of vicious fish into Ozone (vicious tapeworm)


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Oxygen (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: First thoughts on this route:
Like most routes at smith described as technical or "girly?", I didn't find the route devoid of powerful moves. The crux hits between bolts two and four, working up a large but sloped side pull feature. From the 4th bolt up the climbing is 12- resistance climbing until you reach glory jugs. There might only one okay rest hold on the entire route. Compared to Dakine the route is shorter with a slightly harder crux and less rest, but the holds are nicer on the finger... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : East Ship River Face : Time To Power (5.12c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: FA: John Collins 1992


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Neutral Zone (5.11a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: The Watt's Guide suggests that the jams are painful, I would not let that stop you from trying this climb. There is one pocket like jam that is a little painful, but the continuous movement of the upper dihedral is high quality as is the rock. This route is maybe one notch less classic than other Wildfire classics like On the Road and Crime Wave but certainly worth doing. TRs easily with a finger sized cam or nut at the top of the dihedral.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Winter Sustenance (5.12) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: I wish this guy was single...


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Thin Red Line (Free Version... (5.12)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: thanks for posting Max!


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Veteran's Club : Viagra Club (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: I grabbed a quick TR burn on this thing and really liked it. Power Enduro style with big holds and big spans, it aint over till you clip those chains!


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Crack du Jour : Dollars for Donuts (5.9)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: A pretty fun route. It looked runout from below but there is plenty of pro-pertunity between the bolts, its got some great jug haulin. Tough to TR because the anchors are far back and there are rope eating cracks.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Star Wall : Levitate (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: I think this is the most sandbagged route I've tried at Smith. Harder moves than the Catalyst but shorter. Git sum


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Star Wall : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: The warmup route: trad, sport, basalt trickery, shaded early, and it's quick to get two climbers up it!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic route, with the best rock of the Smith Rock Group I've climbed on:
The second pitch is a high quality flake crack feature that gets pretty steep
The third had probably the hardest moves, right off a hollow block onto an overhang
We did the Good Ol Days Variation, go up the flake crack farther than what the guidebook says and look for 2 bolts heading right, trying not to be too sad about leaving that awesome feature as you eye it from the belay
I brought doubles of finger size pieces ... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Prometheus (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 1, 2013

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Comments: There are anchors directly over the route. It's quite run out on the rim rock but it's easy climbing, you really wouldn't want to fall. It could use some chains right now it's webbing and rap rings.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Split Decision (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: This is a really good route, with great movement. If your willing to do a move or two above the pure palm anchor, it's quite easy to TR it that way. There is a wrong way and a "right" way to do the top section. Don't think it's all stemming, the crux for me included an exciting dead point and insecure moves with great body tension and poor feet. 12a seems right for the grade, comparable to White Trash and Try to Be Hip.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : Left Side : Metamorphic Dawning (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: This guy has really good, atypical movement for Smith (Basalt or Tuff) and is certainly worth doing! Some oddball drilled two unusable pockets on the start, please don't do this.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : JR Token (5.10)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: There are two extensions to this route, the JR extension heads left out of a roof while Immortal Illusions tackles the overhang to the right, with your last pro in the horizontal.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Steelhead (5.11)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: While I haven't yet gotten on this route, it is getting a reputation for having tricky pro and grounder potential at the bottom of the route. Take care and suss out those moves if your not feeling up for it, several people have decked and been veeeeeery lucky to walk out.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Five Easy Pieces (start) (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Five Easy is probably the best power endurance 12a at Smith. The moves just before each of the rests are the hardest, making it a fantastic challenge and 'fitness' route


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Iron Cross (5.11b)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: There is now a bolt at the upper crux, there is a tricky lieback sequence just below it, but practically all the moves on gear are 5.10 or easier. Pretty rad route with a great stemming crux, it protects well and should be done more, TRing from rimjob or Gruff is quite easy.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Unknown 10c (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: Hi everybody,
I talked to Brooke the other day and got the low down on this route, more details at the Mark Cartier Memorial Route.
Jon


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruby's Cafe (5.13-) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: The layback to the right now goes as an awesome Will Stanhope route, Down in Albion 13-R, there's a pretty sick video of it on Vimeo.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Yorkshire : ... : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: The Arete to the right of Wellington is Loaded E8!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Astro Monkey (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: A superb climb I will climb again and again. The first pitch is slowly getting harder we found it to be stiff for 12a and the difficulties persist on gear. Second time round I tried moving in stereo as a start which I enjoyed much more. I recommend stick clipping (possibly with the crutches!) for the first bolt. The first bolt is some pebble pinching and then the climbing eases until a crux at the second to last bolt or so. Nic and I pulled the shitty bolts on P2&3 belay anchors but the bottom b... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Trezlar (5.10a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: If linking via planet luxury, climb to bolt 5 where the traverse is much easier. I popped a nubbin after traversing from bolt 3 and took a freaking nasty upside down slab fall, I guess the second pitch will have to wait for another day.


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