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Member Since: Sep 30, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Jon Marek


Point Rank: # 186
Total Points: 2,617
Last Year: 34
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All (1349) | Routes (162) | Areas (32) | Photos (84) | Comments (97) | Posts (66) | Stars (801) | Ratings (107)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 7. Sunday Buttress : No Go Crack (5.12b)
By: Jon Marek When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: I am sure this has been led. Reed told me leading this was one of the last things he did in BMSP. Honestly, not that hard of a route once you know the sequence (assuming it isn't muggy;P) the crux is easily protect-able, and I think some piece near the jug after the crux would protect the mantle. Classic BM style headpoint.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne)
By: Jon Marek When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Only after moving away and climbing at numerous quartzite crags did I realize just how AMAZING the rock is in Blue Mounds. The entire length of cliff-line in BMSP is without question the most consistently high quality quartzite I have ever climbed! Enjoy this place, it is very special.


Location: SD : Palisades State Park : River Boulder : Thunderslap (V4)
By: Jon Marek When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Mike is right. This is the irregular arete, exact same holds I promise there is an easier way to do this.

Edit to add: the new description makes it more clear that this route is an eliminate problem. (irregular arete, inset left wall is off.)


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Jon Marek When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: @tenesmus

Just because you enjoy the roped climbing doesn't mean you get to disagree with my comment about the chossy bouldering below v7. Even you describe the bouldering as choss in your photos. All I'm saying is, if you can't climb v7 then you should plan on rope climbing if you want to have a good time.


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Jon Marek When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: People coming to Ibex for the boulders should know that unless you are a SOLID v7 or stronger climber you will likely be disappointed with the established problems. That said, there are a number of extremely classic v7-11 problems on just the Red Moster, Thing 1, and Thing 2.


Location: NH : Stonehouse Pond : Geezer Pleaser (5.13d R)
By: Jon Marek When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: Awesome video link.


Location: SD : Palisades State Park : The MWC ( Minne-Wakan Cove) : The Biblical Boulder : Trouble Hunters (V3)
By: Jon Marek When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Start about 5 feet left of the crack, follow big edges to a nice pocket. Crux is the last few moves on large feet and sloping hands. This route is Tall and Scary and I had to downclimb several times before summoning the gumption to do the last moves.


Location: SD : Palisades State Park : The MWC ( Minne-Wakan Cove)
By: Jon Marek When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Hopefully this area will get some more traffic...it really is some of the best climbing in Palisades. It would be easy and prudent to set up short top-ropes for the lines on the Biblical face which has the most natural hard (5.12) climbing sequences in the park.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Bur Oak Trail : Boulder Area 3 : Three Across (V1)
By: Jon Marek When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route despite the short stature. Very cool movement!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Half-A-Finger (5.9+)
By: Jon Marek When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Very fun! Somehow I ended up on my belly looking strait down while surmounting the finger, very exposed but soooo cool.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Steel Your Face (5.10a)
By: Jon Marek When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: If you can do the first moves, you can climb this route...but there may be a moment of doubt near bolt five. Gotta have faith in those feet. Would be classic if it didn't feel so sandy.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Indecent Exposure : Eyes Without a Face (5.10c PG13)
By: Jon Marek When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: I have to disagree with you Brent. The grade for this route is well within my abilities and I am very familiar with the grade in spearfish, I did after all on-sight this climb.

That being said the moves are hard with bad feet right off the (SUPER CHOSSY) ledge and the bolts are far from easy to clip (read: awkward), and as I said falling awkwardly or while clipping in the first few bolts is almost guaranteed to land you on the ledge (broken ankle anyone?). My rating of PG-13 was not influenced... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : Barfly (V8)
By: Jon Marek When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: I've never seen this boulder but I talked to my bro and he told me if you clench your anus for the first and sixth move then the crux is only about 5.8ish.

Hope this helps.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 7. Sunday Buttress : Balcony Center (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jon Marek When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: I bet it is harder than 10a doing it that way:) If you set the top-rope about 5 feet (climber's) left, it would be more comfortable doing the easier finish (still hard 10a). Nice photos.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Rubaiyat Spire
By: Jon Marek When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: Hey, I have move the east face route. Sorry if the description still fails to "inspire". Don't let me keep you from trying the route though, I promise it is better than my description.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne)
By: Jon Marek When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: 16 page bouldering guide is now email-able. PM if you want one.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Prairie Walls Area : 7. Sunday Buttress : Cactus Capers (5.10b/c)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: Protection on this route is actually quite good. 1 medium/large nut on a long runner can be placed at the rest before the roof, and a yellow cam goes nicely into one of the pods under the roof (don't put it in the wrong one or the crux is harder). After the roof, there is no pro but the climbing is 5.3.


Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Large Roof Area : Quick Draw Moves to Hollywo... (5.11b)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: Probably shouldn't even bother trolling Mountain Project unless you are looking for beta...it's kinda the whole point.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: How is the trail to BPG this time of year, I have a trip planned for the 23-28th and I don't think I've ever been out there this early. Are there any good walls to hit up other than Sunshine early in the season?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Felt like I should put in my two cents.

1. Personally I think p1 is the crux no matter which way you go. Even if you think p6 has harder moves, p1 is a far more serious lead particularly for the second.

2. I went for this route OS with very little beta, so I decided to make a belay in the ample placements about 10 feet from the base of the dihedral in p2 instead of the tree. Later, I read in Rock and Ice an accident report about a climber who died when his rope cut while falling on the initial... more >>


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : The Cube : The 4th Dimension (V2)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Mike, why did you change the grade on this (was v3 now v1-)? The problem I believe you refer to in the description (and what I call 4th dimension) is IMO v2 while using the arete. Maybe we are thinking of different problems, do you have any photos?


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : The Cube : Tesseract (V1)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Mike, is this problem to the right or left of 4th dimension? The description says one way and the location says the other.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Boulders : The Metamorphic Rock : Slap Happy (V1)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: If you are looking to get sideways bouldering at Blue Mounds I recommend: W at Craig's Cave, Lip Sync on East Quarry Boulder, Pieta on the Quarry Boulder, the boulder crux on No Go Crack, and Sam's Opus on The Cube.

Edit to include Three Across (so good) and Daddy Long-legs Express (probably Blue Mounds' best traverse problem.)


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : Pointy Little Devil (5.8)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Sorry about that...edited to be less sucky


Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : North Quarry Talus : The Chamber : The Prow (V4)
By: Jon Marek When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: I have not been to BM in months (too busy with work which sucks) so I have not been there to see the damage for myself. I will say that the tree in question is not near the prow and was certainly not cut down for that purpose. As for the cutting, it is unfortunate, but not surprising; over the last year I have noticed that someone has made several different attempts to cut the tree down (which is why in the guide I call it the "giving tree"), cutting off most the lower branches.
I can... more >>


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