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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Shits and Grins (5.10c)
By: JohnWesely When: Feb 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it is just me, but this thing felt super hard for the grade. I thought the crux felt harder than any single sequence on the brick wall.
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Seconds (5.8+)
By: JohnWesely When: Jan 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That was just my impression of the route. Maybe I was having an off day.
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Location: GA : Rocktown : The Orb : Double Trouble (V4-5)
By: JohnWesely When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going all the way out is v3ish. V4 is pretty generous.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Blood on the Rocks (5.10b/c)
By: JohnWesely When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty fun route. My partner and I couldn't stop talking about it after we did it.
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Location: TN : Deep Creek : Leakage (5.12b)
By: JohnWesely When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have never been on a harder 12a and have been on easier 12b's.
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Location: TN : Deep Creek : The Deep Show (5.13a)
By: JohnWesely When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't want to post anything I haven't been on personally, or know the name of.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Frosted Flake (5.9+)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing it a few times, I really think Frosted Flake is the best route on the wall, even better than Shredded Wheat. As for Jamming Vs. Lie Backing. Having done it both ways, I felt like it was more strenuous to jam. You can place gear till your heart is content and would probably never fall out of the locker jams, but doing the runout lie back is much less strenuous.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : West Side Boulders : Washing Machine Boulder : The Helicopter sds (V5)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This entry is a one to one rip off of the guidebook.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Jack Be Nimble (5.11b)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool feature. Felt pretty hard.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Capt Crunch (5.10d)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Zydygo (5.10c)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulling the roof after the crux is definitely the most exciting part of the route.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Black Planet (5.12a)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun climb. The crux is significantly harder than the rest, but the climbing isn't over afterwards by any means. The stemming is mega fun, and the roof at the top is committing and interesting.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Southern Boys Don't Wear Pl... (5.11a/b)
By: JohnWesely When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used ring locks to pull the roof. Don't be like me and miss the good holds.
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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Brick Wall : Dreams (5.11c)
By: JohnWesely When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a nice gear ripper on this yesterday when I slapped for a nothing hold instead of a monster jug after the crux.
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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Deprived Child (5.6 PG13)
By: JohnWesely When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold.
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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Trad and True (5.8+ PG13)
By: JohnWesely When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You could do this route without a single number 2. A number 3, which I didn't bring, would really take some of the runout out. No matter what you bring, there are a few sections with insecure, sandy moves with severe potential for injury in a fall.
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Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Stairway to Heaven (5.9+)
By: JohnWesely When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is pretty serious. If you don't clip the chicken bolt on Variations, you would definitely die/ be maimed if you fell at the cruxy move before the bolt.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Creatures of Waste (5.10c A3)
By: JohnWesely When: Aug 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. It is hard to have more fun on granite.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: JohnWesely When: Aug 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do you do this route? I was trying to jam in the roof crack and scum with my knees, but I never got farther than the lip of the roof crack. Any beta for a poor, confused climber?
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Rusty's Crack (5.10a)
By: JohnWesely When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do you do this route? I had to french free the crux. This is the only 5.10 I have ever not been able to complete.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Narcissism (5.10b)
By: JohnWesely When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Continuously awkward from the bottom to top.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : Flaming Lips (5.11d PG13)
By: JohnWesely When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic thin face.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : North Face : Catwalk : pussyfootin' (5.11)
By: JohnWesely When: Jun 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 25 feet of this thing is the most difficult to read rock I have ever climbed.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall
By: JohnWesely When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would also like to see the area subdivided.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Rico Sauve (5.10a)
By: JohnWesely When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I didn't get this climb, but I thought it had absolutely nothing going for it.
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