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Dreams of Wild Turkeys


Member Since: Nov 15, 2012
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Johnny Y

Point Rank: # 1,038
Total Points: 666
Last Year: 197
Last 30 Days: 0
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Johnny Y been climbing?










Contributions


All 988 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 99 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 44 | Stars 745 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Jardine's Hand (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: This is an amazing climb and I don't understand why it gets little traffic. Micros would be good for the crux, which I thought was harder and way more committing than any single move on catchy corner at the same grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Face Card (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: There seems to be 3 rap anchors on this route. After the 1st one, 3 bolts gets you to an anchor on the left (traverse left after the 3rd bolt), or 8 bolts straight up to the 3rd anchor. You will most likely need a 70m to rap off the upper 2 anchors


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Go For The Gold (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: super cool, though the fun ended too quickly


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : I Almost Died (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: I was glad to have cams and fired them as fast as possible in the bottom half!

The rock landed about a foot from my friend so it is now called "She Almost Died" in my book.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Pure Palm (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: So much fun!

I was told that the original FA was done on pins, and when they put in the bolts, they were placed at the same level to preserve the clipping stance. I can't imagine leading this on gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : Much Ado About Nothing (5.10d)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: The crux felt pretty thin even for my small fingers (between #0 to #1 metolius), cranking straight up that crack seemed hard for the grade. A hold out left may help, bouldery.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Unforgiven Variation (5.10b)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: The couple of flake jugs after the last bolt sounded quite hollow, don't pull on them


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Phobos Start Variation (5.11+)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: There are only a few hand sized pods and are separated by narrower sections (takes BD #0.5 to #1), bring those sizes as well unless you want to block those good jams. Wild sequences to hit those slots. Consider placing something on the side after the lip to keep the rope out of the crack, otherwise your rope may get jammed up with the last piece below the roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : V8 Crack (5.10d)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: Got sucked into the wide crack on the left, felt harder than the bottom half! Would go right the next time.


Location: CA : High Sierra : North Peak : North Face North Couloir (r... (AI3 Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: let's go establish some!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: yup! that was our approach for eichorn.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pan Tease Lower (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: maybe because of all the moss, I couldn't find the pin and bolt on the second pitch, definitely no fall zone on mossy slab


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Thanks to a group of SFSU geologists the trail up Inyo Creek is now well marked. We brought double up to 3", one 4" and double set of small to med nuts and it was sufficient. Nuts worked really well on the finger crack and many of the belays. I thought the moves getting to the first A0 bolt on pitch 5 was harder than any other 5.9 slabs on the route, but it's well protected. Fun and adventurous route with lots of variety, all gear anchors are good, no need for bolted anchors on this pristine alp... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Whitney and Surrounding Pea... : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: This was one glorious pitch! Better than Serenity!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : The Nagual, aka: Moonflower (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Started on the vertical thin hand to finger crack beside the giant hollow flake, I would avoid pulling on it


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Way more impressive to see this in person! The section down low feels similar to Ivory Tower Left, except there are more features for your hands and feet - so don't get intimidated and get on it!

Next time I would bring a pair of comfortable shoes, 1#6, 2#5, a #4 or #3 for the bottom half. Then blue bigbro and some finger sized gears for the top half, but the climbing there is very secure and you have to run it out regardless.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Freedom Fighter (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: tried to use the right side crimps + flared jam at the crux and fell, ended up doing something completely different and was way more manageable


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scard Face (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Did he fall into a sand crevasse?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Liked this more than Colorado Crack, would be a classic if it was in Yosemite. Pro could be tricky above the pod, but beyond that it protects well with 1-3" (4" near the top). The last section is just like what everybody says, so be prepared to crank a bit harder and lose a bit of skin.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Dial 911 (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: I liked this route more than WOTWS, thoughtful movements with some cool cruxes. Though friction climbing was never my thing so it felt a bit runout (but such is life at JTree). It's probably not that bad though if you have a cool head, just not a pleasant fall as with all slab climb, especially when some crux moves "felt" way above the previous bolt


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: With a 60m rope, the rappel is exactly as described in Randy Vogel's book, almost the same as what Eli said but we picked the climber's right of the 2 closely spaced rap stations (not left). It is the first pitch anchor for Dial 911 and from there, a single rap (diagonally) will just make it to the start of WOTWS, remember to tie knots at the end if you have a 60m!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: said arm is left on the ground, on top of the helmet...


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: That's literally one heck of a snow bridge!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The ultimate crux was trying not to land into the thorny bush directly below the anchor, my slings got caught while swinging out to the boulder and all was lost


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners - Left (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Contrived or not, this is an awesome splitter that deserves more loving. Climbing the crack straight in is super fun, enjoyed this more than rawhide. Mostly #0.5 and #0.75 with some finger sizes near the top.


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