Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dreams of Wild Turkeys


Member Since: Nov 15, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Johnny Y


Point Rank: # 979
Total Points: 653
Last Year: 266
Last 30 Days: 5
35 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Johnny Y been climbing?










Contributions


All 872 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 97 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 40 | Stars 641 | Ratings 34
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : I Almost Died (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I was glad to have cams and fired them as fast as possible in the bottom half!

The rock landed about a foot from my friend so it is now called "She Almost Died" in my book.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Pure Palm (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: So much fun!

I was told that the original FA was done on pins, and when they put in the bolts, they were placed at the same level to preserve the clipping stance. I can't imagine leading this on gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : Much Ado About Nothing (5.10d)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The crux felt pretty thin even for my small fingers (between #0 to #1 metolius), cranking straight up that crack seemed hard for the grade. A hold out left may help, bouldery.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northwest Face : Unforgiven Variation (5.10b)
By: Johnny Y When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The couple of flake jugs after the last bolt sounded quite hollow, don't pull on them


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos Start Variation (5.11+)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are only a few hand sized pods and are separated by narrower sections (takes BD #0.5 to #1), bring those sizes as well unless you want to block those good jams. Wild sequences to hit those slots. Consider placing something on the side after the lip to keep the rope out of the crack, otherwise your rope may get jammed up with the last piece below the roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : V8 Crack (5.10d)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Got sucked into the wide crack on the left, felt harder than the bottom half! Would go right the next time.


Location: CA : High Sierra : North Peak : North Face North Couloir (r... (AI3 Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: let's go establish some!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: yup! that was our approach for eichorn.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pan Tease Lower (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: maybe because of all the moss, I couldn't find the pin and bolt on the second pitch, definitely no fall zone on mossy slab


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to a group of SFSU geologists the trail up Inyo Creek is now well marked. We brought double up to 3", one 4" and double set of small to med nuts and it was sufficient. Nuts worked really well on the finger crack and many of the belays. I thought the moves getting to the first A0 bolt on pitch 5 was harder than any other 5.9 slabs on the route, but it's well protected. Fun and adventurous route with lots of variety, all gear anchors are good, no need for bolted anchors on this pristine alp... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This was one glorious pitch! Better than Serenity!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : The Nagual, aka: Moonflower (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Started on the vertical thin hand to finger crack beside the giant hollow flake, I would avoid pulling on it


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Way more impressive to see this in person! The section down low feels similar to Ivory Tower Left, except there are more features for your hands and feet - so don't get intimidated and get on it!

Next time I would bring a pair of comfortable shoes, 1#6, 2#5, a #4 or #3 for the bottom half. Then blue bigbro and some finger sized gears for the top half, but the climbing there is very secure and you have to run it out regardless.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Freedom Fighter (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: tried to use the right side crimps + flared jam at the crux and fell, ended up doing something completely different and was way more manageable


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scard Face (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did he fall into a sand crevasse?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Liked this more than Colorado Crack, would be a classic if it was in Yosemite. Pro could be tricky above the pod, but beyond that it protects well with 1-3" (4" near the top). The last section is just like what everybody says, so be prepared to crank a bit harder and lose a bit of skin.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Dial 911 (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I liked this route more than WOTWS, thoughtful movements with some cool cruxes. Though friction climbing was never my thing so it felt a bit runout (but such is life at JTree). It's probably not that bad though if you have a cool head, just not a pleasant fall as with all slab climb, especially when some crux moves "felt" way above the previous bolt


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: With a 60m rope, the rappel is exactly as described in Randy Vogel's book, almost the same as what Eli said but we picked the climber's right of the 2 closely spaced rap stations (not left). It is the first pitch anchor for Dial 911 and from there, a single rap (diagonally) will just make it to the start of WOTWS, remember to tie knots at the end if you have a 60m!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: said arm is left on the ground, on top of the helmet...


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That's literally one heck of a snow bridge!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The ultimate crux was trying not to land into the thorny bush directly below the anchor, my slings got caught while swinging out to the boulder and all was lost


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners - Left (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Nov 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Contrived or not, this is an awesome splitter that deserves more loving. Climbing the crack straight in is super fun, enjoyed this more than rawhide. Mostly #0.5 and #0.75 with some finger sizes near the top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Range Enchainment... : Cathedral Range Traverse (Easy 5th)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great write-up! I did it counter-clockwise just to avoid the Cathedral mob in the afternoon. Though when I showed up at 8am there were at least 3 parties on the route and when I came back down by 9:30 there were 5 parties roping up (and several on the approach) :/

I down climbed the NE side of Corkscomb and it was exposed 5th class. But if you are going the other direction, it's definitely a more interesting alternative than the west side. Rock quality was decent so be careful. It was an awesom... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Galen's Crack : Galen's Crack (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: You can see the crack and the pullout across from the street in this google street view (scroll around):

goo.gl/maps/2yEh4

It was hard to find where to stop as a first timer especially with lame tourists tailgating you at 50 mph


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Johnny Y When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: agreed with tsuji, 60m rope + stretch will barely get you from P3 to P1, definitely tie knots and I had to clip myself in above the anchor. Better yet, use the alternate rap route to the left you won't be in the way of other climbers on the route


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>