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Dreams of Wild Turkeys


Member Since: Nov 15, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Johnny Y


Point Rank: # 1,106
Total Points: 550
Last Year: 311
Last 30 Days: 55
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Johnny Y been climbing?










Contributions


All 735 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 86 | Page Improvments | Comments 40 | Posts 31 | Stars 538 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0)
By: Johnny Y When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Thanks to a group of SFSU geologists the trail up Inyo Creek is now well marked. We brought double up to 3", one 4" and double set of small to med nuts and it was sufficient. Nuts worked really well on the finger crack and many of the belays. I thought the moves getting to the first A0 bolt on pitch 5 was harder than any other 5.9 slabs on the route, but it's well protected. Fun and adventurous route with lots of variety, all gear anchors are good, no need for bolted anchors on this pristine alp... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This was one glorious pitch! Better than Serenity!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : The Nagual, aka: Moonflower (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Started on the vertical thin hand to finger crack beside the giant hollow flake, I would avoid pulling on it


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: Way more impressive to see this in person! The section down low feels similar to Ivory Tower Left, except there are more features for your hands and feet - so don't get intimidated and get on it!

Next time I would bring a pair of comfortable shoes, 1#6, 2#5, a #4 or #3 for the bottom half. Then blue bigbro and some finger sized gears for the top half, but the climbing there is very secure and you have to run it out regardless.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Freedom Fighter (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: tried to use the right side crimps + flared jam at the crux and fell, ended up doing something completely different and was way more manageable


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scard Face (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Did he fall into a sand crevasse?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Liked this more than Colorado Crack, would be a classic if it was in Yosemite. Pro could be tricky above the pod, but beyond that it protects well with 1-3" (4" near the top). The last section is just like what everybody says, so be prepared to crank a bit harder and lose a bit of skin.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Dial 911 (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: I liked this route more than WOTWS, thoughtful movements with some cool cruxes. Though friction climbing was never my thing so it felt a bit runout (but such is life at JTree). It's probably not that bad though if you have a cool head, just not a pleasant fall as with all slab climb, especially when some crux moves "felt" way above the previous bolt


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: With a 60m rope, the rappel is exactly as described in Randy Vogel's book, almost the same as what Eli said but we picked the climber's right of the 2 closely spaced rap stations (not left). It is the first pitch anchor for Dial 911 and from there, a single rap (diagonally) will just make it to the start of WOTWS, remember to tie knots at the end if you have a 60m!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: said arm is left on the ground, on top of the helmet...


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: That's literally one heck of a snow bridge!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Johnny Y When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The ultimate crux was trying not to land into the thorny bush directly below the anchor, my slings got caught while swinging out to the boulder and all was lost


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners - Left (5.11a)
By: Johnny Y When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Contrived or not, this is an awesome splitter that deserves more loving. Climbing the crack straight in is super fun, enjoyed this more than rawhide. Mostly #0.5 and #0.75 with some finger sizes near the top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Range Traverse (Easy 5th)
By: Johnny Y When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Great write-up! I did it counter-clockwise just to avoid the Cathedral mob in the afternoon. Though when I showed up at 8am there were at least 3 parties on the route and when I came back down by 9:30 there were 5 parties roping up (and several on the approach) :/

I down climbed the NE side of Corkscomb and it was exposed 5th class. But if you are going the other direction, it's definitely a more interesting alternative than the west side. Rock quality was decent so be careful. It was an awesom... more >>


Location: OR : Moolack : Lost Art (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Gear from 3/4" to 3", nothing smaller than BD #0.4. The pitch is 35m or 115ft, not 35ft. You will need a 70m rope to safely rap to the ground


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Galen's Crack : Galen's Crack (5.10c)
By: Johnny Y When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: You can see the crack and the pullout across from the street in this google street view (scroll around):

goo.gl/maps/2yEh4

It was hard to find where to stop as a first timer especially with lame tourists tailgating you at 50 mph


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Johnny Y When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: agreed with tsuji, 60m rope + stretch will barely get you from P3 to P1, definitely tie knots and I had to clip myself in above the anchor. Better yet, use the alternate rap route to the left you won't be in the way of other climbers on the route


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Deja Thorus (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Found this route to be quite fun, mostly solid hand jams and I didn't need to lieback much. There are some loose spots but still lots of good pros, it is not as bad as what supertopo made it sound like


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Selaginella (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Only time I used the 4" piece was at the second belay anchor, and that was only because I had to build around someone else's anchor, so I think gear up to 3" would suffice


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Selaginella (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this a few days ago and there was a VERY LOOSE block halfway up the first pitch. It is about 1' in height and as deep and wide as the crack. One would instinctively grab the jug as there are no convenient jams. We weren't sure how to safely extract the block so be very careful, especially with the two recent deaths on El Cap due to rock fall, this should be taken care of.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, South Flank : Alimony Cracks (5.8)
By: Johnny Y When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Anyone knows what the right crack with the wide pod goes at?


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Eastern Front : Enemy at the Gates (5.10a)
By: Johnny Y When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Great route with fun moves, took some finger to hand size gear for this, nothing bigger than a camalot #2


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : Eastern Front : Napoleon's Greatest Mistake (5.9+)
By: Johnny Y When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: Mostly camalot #3 all the way up, then 4 bolts to the anchor. Climbing above the column is mostly easy jugs but the "mossy factor" made things a bit more exciting. Would be a short fun route after some more cleaning/traffic


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Dirty street Fight (5.10+) : Photo
By: Johnny Y When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: helmet magically disappeared?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge
By: Johnny Y When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: For Dan and Jerry's Playground approach, Supertopo says park at the 2nd and smaller of the two dirt pullouts, we did and ended up going up some drainage across the road (probably for Endless Summer Wall) and went too high. On the way back we followed the trail down from Just Do Me and popped out at the PAVED pullout just ~20m before our small dirt pullout.

The paved pullout is shy of 1.8 miles west of Camp 4 and the faint trailhead starts on the east end of the pullout close to a water pipe. Gr... more >>


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