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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 231
Total Points: 2,336
Last Year: 243
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4509 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 876 | Posts 1590 | Stars 1081 | Ratings 816
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : East Face (Central)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This area is noted as The Grooves in the new Richardson Guide.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : East Face (South)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This area is noted as the Plum Wall in the new Richardson guide.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: John Wilder When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: That's an interesting comment, as I have always considered many of the climbs here pretty benchmark at their grades.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood
By: John Wilder When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: As of Summer 2013, the parking area most climbers have used for the Hood has been permanently closed. Instead, please use the large new lot at the bottom of the road (about 100 yards south of the old parking area) and the new trailhead for Trail Canyon.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Josh doesn't know how to get pumped. He never learned!


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Los Banditos (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: I really dislike this route- I find the route to be contrived with a dangerous clip (and fall) at the crux.

Some folks like it, but I'm not a fan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Aeolian Wall (Original Rout... (5.9 A3)
By: John Wilder When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Given that it rarely gets done- I think Andrew and Karsten's ascent was the most recent, I doubt that it goes clean at this point.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Please dont create rap stations on the descent for this route- they are not needed. There is a short 3rd class section- it looks like it wont go at first- but if you follow the cairns and keep moving downward, it works out well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: John Wilder When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Few notes for the masses.

1) A 60m line works well to link the first two pitches and the fist crack/tunnel pitch. This lets you casually do the route in 5 pitches. Note: The final pitch goes into the sun around 1pm, so get up early and move quickly to avoid baking on it!

2) Rack. Lots of opinions. If i had to do it again, I'd take doubles from tiny to .75 Camalot, with a triple purple metolius. I'd also triple up on #1 and #2 camalots. Toss-up between four #3 Camalots or 3 of... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: If you stay high in the bowl and keep traversing, you can walk off this route fairly casually with no rappels.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Mercedes (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.

If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Burros Don't Gamble (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: For those climbing this route- the bottom links on the chains are mostly worn through and should not be used. Best to use the second or third links up for now.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Its not that easy- luckily, from this spot, you can actually walk off right (no summit, of course)- and down back to the base.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: A fine crag with some excellent and ridiculously long routes. Take your 60m unless you want to get on Cowboy Bebop, then bring the 70m line. Well worth the hike- lots of options for everyone.

Most of the cliff was in the shade by 2p, with the shelf at the base and a bit of the cliff keeping warm until about 4.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Lunatic (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: This line is worth the hike- super fun and mellow start to a very doable crux to an interesting and sustained 50' of climbing. This route is long and fun and not to be missed. Very excited to see it clean up a bit more!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Cowboy Curse (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Quite good- clip the first bolt and then come down and climb the arete thats about 5' right of it to make the climb as mellow as possible. A fun and delicate crux in the midst of laid back but thoughtful climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Hippie Vest (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: I've done this route twice now and probably won't repeat it again. while the last 30 feet or so are good, the first 40 are scary and nerve racking.

if you're going to get on this, be solid at 5.10, as getting to the bolt above the tower is pretty hard and the fall consequences are high.

I also agree on the tower. I'll be curious to see how long that thing sticks around.

the second pitch is good, worth doing if you go up the first.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Grizzly (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: A fine climb on a fun cliff. Still crispy, as the cliff is very new, but fun movement on good rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: the anchor situation on the ledge has gotten worse in the last few years. one bolt is completely missing now. also, a hanger is missing off a bolt on the first pitch (last bolt, it's the one that's super close to the one below). a fair number of the studs look iffy. this route could use some heavy maintenance.

also, keep your helmets on while in the gully at the base of the climb. some knuckleheads cut loose a bunch of rock off the top of power failure and it shot down the route and bounced do... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: You climb up and right at the top of the red circle. Larry would have gone where the pro is, and that's where the pro is. Left, then right. Jerry's topo is slightly off.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: It is the correct pitch. You're not meant to belay at those bolts- they shouldnt even be there. The belay is up and right from where the bolts are, but the pitch traverses up and left into that crack, and then you head back right to gain the beautiful varnished crack above. The trick is to not go too high in this crack.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : North Eastern Buttress of B... : Hodor Said Hodor (5.9 PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking line- looks like you guys added to Dogleg Crack (which is the first pitch of your route) if you're curious about whether anyone had climbed it before. Probably just the first pitch- congrats on several more!

mountainproject.com/v/dogleg-c...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Pump First, Pay Later (5.10b) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The .10c is Running Amok- this climber is on Pump First, Pay Later, the .10b. This route is, imho, the hardest and least enjoyable of the .10s at the Gallery.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Perchance to Dream (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Well bolted, long, and good fun. Probably my favorite route at the cliff.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : To Grunt and Sweat (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Nice little route- I suspect this might settle close to 5.9 when it finishes shedding, but maybe not. Fun regardless. Thanks guys!


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