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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 227
Total Points: 2,329
Last Year: 291
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4443 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 869 | Posts 1546 | Stars 1074 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Please dont create rap stations on the descent for this route- they are not needed. There is a short 3rd class section- it looks like it wont go at first- but if you follow the cairns and keep moving downward, it works out well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: John Wilder When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Few notes for the masses.

1) A 60m line works well to link the first two pitches and the fist crack/tunnel pitch. This lets you casually do the route in 5 pitches. Note: The final pitch goes into the sun around 1pm, so get up early and move quickly to avoid baking on it!

2) Rack. Lots of opinions. If i had to do it again, I'd take doubles from tiny to .75 Camalot, with a triple purple metolius. I'd also triple up on #1 and #2 camalots. Toss-up between four #3 Camalots or 3 of... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: If you stay high in the bowl and keep traversing, you can walk off this route fairly casually with no rappels.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Mercedes (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.

If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Burros Don't Gamble (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: For those climbing this route- the bottom links on the chains are mostly worn through and should not be used. Best to use the second or third links up for now.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Its not that easy- luckily, from this spot, you can actually walk off right (no summit, of course)- and down back to the base.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: A fine crag with some excellent and ridiculously long routes. Take your 60m unless you want to get on Cowboy Bebop, then bring the 70m line. Well worth the hike- lots of options for everyone.

Most of the cliff was in the shade by 2p, with the shelf at the base and a bit of the cliff keeping warm until about 4.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Lunatic (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: This line is worth the hike- super fun and mellow start to a very doable crux to an interesting and sustained 50' of climbing. This route is long and fun and not to be missed. Very excited to see it clean up a bit more!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Cowboy Curse (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Quite good- clip the first bolt and then come down and climb the arete thats about 5' right of it to make the climb as mellow as possible. A fun and delicate crux in the midst of laid back but thoughtful climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Hippie Vest (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: I've done this route twice now and probably won't repeat it again. while the last 30 feet or so are good, the first 40 are scary and nerve racking.

if you're going to get on this, be solid at 5.10, as getting to the bolt above the tower is pretty hard and the fall consequences are high.

I also agree on the tower. I'll be curious to see how long that thing sticks around.

the second pitch is good, worth doing if you go up the first.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Grizzly (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: A fine climb on a fun cliff. Still crispy, as the cliff is very new, but fun movement on good rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: the anchor situation on the ledge has gotten worse in the last few years. one bolt is completely missing now. also, a hanger is missing off a bolt on the first pitch (last bolt, it's the one that's super close to the one below). a fair number of the studs look iffy. this route could use some heavy maintenance.

also, keep your helmets on while in the gully at the base of the climb. some knuckleheads cut loose a bunch of rock off the top of power failure and it shot down the route and bounced do... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: You climb up and right at the top of the red circle. Larry would have gone where the pro is, and that's where the pro is. Left, then right. Jerry's topo is slightly off.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: It is the correct pitch. You're not meant to belay at those bolts- they shouldnt even be there. The belay is up and right from where the bolts are, but the pitch traverses up and left into that crack, and then you head back right to gain the beautiful varnished crack above. The trick is to not go too high in this crack.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : North Eastern Buttress of B... : Hodor Said Hodor (5.9 PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking line- looks like you guys added to Dogleg Crack (which is the first pitch of your route) if you're curious about whether anyone had climbed it before. Probably just the first pitch- congrats on several more!

mountainproject.com/v/dogleg-c...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Pump First, Pay Later (5.10b) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The .10c is Running Amok- this climber is on Pump First, Pay Later, the .10b. This route is, imho, the hardest and least enjoyable of the .10s at the Gallery.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Perchance to Dream (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Well bolted, long, and good fun. Probably my favorite route at the cliff.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : To Grunt and Sweat (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Nice little route- I suspect this might settle close to 5.9 when it finishes shedding, but maybe not. Fun regardless. Thanks guys!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: 1) don't take bolts out, even by hand (unless you can leave a safe option). Even in shear, they are plenty strong for a rappel. Just let someone know it's bad. Leaving them out will endanger others.

2) there is an extremely casual 3rd class approach about 50 yards south of the rappel to this climb. Climbers looking to do this route should use this option until someone has time to go replace that bolt. (and, truth be told, it might be a good thing that anchor has gone the way of the dodo, as its... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Ballikayalar (Honey Crag) : Left Side : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking sequence, terrifying looking belay. Yowsers...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: I've got a few in my garage- i'll try to get out there and replace it sometime soon. Mussys can be worn down pretty far before its worrysome- they're two to three time as thick as anything else that has lasted 20 years previously, and those are pretty new...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Black Bitch : The Black Bitch (V2)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: I remember thinking the feet were pretty mellow. One of my favorite warm-ups when I boulder (which is about 3x a year).


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: It's a shame that this is the only pitch of pure amazingness on this climb. Great shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: Wow, thats alot more chalk on that thing that there was when I did it years ago.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Pockets of Dirt (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced the second to last pro bolt on this route with a 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolt.


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