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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, unless you were rappelling off this, don't TR through quicklinks. its bad for the gear and, in this case, your rope.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : 6. Baby Teeth (5.5) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: looks like he was lowering on TR and decided to lead up to a different set of anchors on another route. goofy, but i suppose it works.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: uh, there is no lie back section on the Fox. That's called doing it the hard way- props if you made it through!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dog Wall : Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, ... (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fwiw- i've seen several people take the fall off the crux on this thing with a regular draw on the first bolt and no one has tapped the deck. Everyone has ended up 2 feet or more above that starting shelf.
thats part of the reason we didnt mess with the bolt configuration. but i do agree- this, along with some other routes at this cliff were not bolted with any sort of thought whatsoever...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall
By: John Wilder When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: a fine crag and my compliments to Mr Young for the addition to the second pullout. Do be mindful on the 5 routes on the left- they are still shedding rock- most especially up top. A helmet is probably a good idea.
The three routes on the right are really fun, aesthetic, and just good climbing, not to be missed.
Well worth the hike up there!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Sponsors Wanted (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun- if folks dont like the run to the top, this climb is easily toproped from the .10a (and vice versa)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Meetup Wall : Upcoming Meetups (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: felt a little old school...very unique climbing. definitely a hard move off the ground, but the slab section felt just as hard...but maybe i've been clipping too many bolts lately!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: someone must have tightened it since then- i did it this fall and it was fine.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember thinking from the ground that once I hit that hold I'd be able to get it back. I also remember hitting that hold and not getting anything back...nice expression, captures the moment nicely.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Bury the Hatchet (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: dangit! beat me to it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Hunter S. Thompson Dome : The De-Nogginizer (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 1/10/12, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 7th, and 8th protection bolts on this route. All but the last are 1/2" x 3 1/2" Carbon Steel 5 piece bolts, with the last bolt being a 1/2" x 2 3/4" Stainless Steel 5 piece.
The 3rd, 5th and 8th bolt were both moved somewhat due to dubious rock quality in their original placements.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Karate Crack (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree on that vertical crack- the right side is hollow. If you keep a #1 for the top, it fits nicely into a shallow crack on the ledge itself and is bomber. This is a nice supplement to the horizontal crack at the back of the ledge.
Calling this .9 is a bit of a sandbag, the crux on this thing is a VERY hard pull on overhanging terrain. The jam is good, but I certainly wouldn't argue a .10 rating of some sort.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Crispy Critters (5.7 R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like it. either that or Captain Crunch- they're right next to each other. its been ages since we did them...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Crispy Critters (5.7 R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: is that a bolt? i dont remember any bolts on that thing when we did it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Thermal Breakdown (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Bonaire or Bon-ez, I think...that's the lower part of the corridor below.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Sonic Youth (5.11b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: probably no move harder than .11a/b, but sustained enough to challenge you. Felt easier than Native Son and Cujo, but definitely more of a pump factor.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Tango Towers : Crawford's Corner (5.10+ PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope- not me. I remember the top of P1 had a nut and something else for the anchor, we rapped off it and I remember it being not that awesome in not that awesome rock. Never got to the top of P2- the rockfall happened as I started up it, shredding both my ropes and getting down safely became the primary concern.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Tango Towers : Crawford's Corner (5.10+ PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is odd that those comments were removed. I was the one that triggered the rockfall- it was definitely epic and we got lucky. Given the condition of the rap station at the top of 1, I'd take some tat and maybe even a hand drill kit for the top of 2.
That said, given the condition of the rock up there, I can't say I'd recommend the route- what I knocked off wasn't the only sketch looking thing up there...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: hopefully that rock dust was blown off during the 1st ascent before it gets wet and hardens...
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Hardcore Jollies (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're any shorter than 5'10" or so, this thing is definitely .12 something. Reachy defined.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 6- just after the traverse above the crux pitch. Probably the best pitch on the route- 5.fun.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : micro corner (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like Intimidator Crack- guidebook says .10ish, consensus around camp was quite a bit harder than that.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : Saweet two pitch (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: phenomenal second pitch. watch the rock on the first pitch- its iffy at best. not sure how much longer the start will be around...
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : right out crack (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Middendorf's Crack and clocks in at low .11.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : long classic corner (5.10a/b PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 3-4 each of #3 and #4 camalots would not go unused on this route. a #5 is also nice to have- she's a wide one!
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