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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 550
Last 30 Days: 8
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (4273) | Routes (114) | Areas (10) | Photos (11) | Comments (853) | Posts (1447) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (794)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: 1) don't take bolts out, even by hand (unless you can leave a safe option). Even in shear, they are plenty strong for a rappel. Just let someone know it's bad. Leaving them out will endanger others.

2) there is an extremely casual 3rd class approach about 50 yards south of the rappel to this climb. Climbers looking to do this route should use this option until someone has time to go replace that bolt. (and, truth be told, it might be a good thing that anchor has gone the way of the dodo, as its... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Turkey : Ballikayalar (Honey Crag) : Left Side : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking sequence, terrifying looking belay. Yowsers...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: I've got a few in my garage- i'll try to get out there and replace it sometime soon. Mussys can be worn down pretty far before its worrysome- they're two to three time as thick as anything else that has lasted 20 years previously, and those are pretty new...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Black Bitch : The Black Bitch (V2)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: I remember thinking the feet were pretty mellow. One of my favorite warm-ups when I boulder (which is about 3x a year).


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: It's a shame that this is the only pitch of pure amazingness on this climb. Great shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: Wow, thats alot more chalk on that thing that there was when I did it years ago.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Pockets of Dirt (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced the second to last pro bolt on this route with a 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Black Gold (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced the hangers on the anchor of this route and equipped them with quicklinks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : Nirvana (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced one anchor bolt with a 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolt and equipped both hangers with quicklinks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : Haunted Hooks (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced one anchor bolt with a 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolt and equipped both hangers with quicklinks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Meatlocker (5.12+)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: Just noticed this climb today- the second bolt (in the roof) is in what looks like a large hollow flake. Falling on that looks like it would rip the flake off the ceiling, and do some serious damage to climber and belayer. This route should be chopped before someone kills themselves on it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Scorpions (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: This route is now equipped with links and mussy hooks courtesy of the ASCA. Please leave these in place!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: This route is now equipped with mussy hooks courtesy of the ASCA.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Sport Chimney (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: As of today, this route is now equipped with quicklinks courtesy of the ASCA. PLEASE do not remove these as running the rope directly through the bolts will wear them down!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Tour de Pump (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Probably my favorite route at the cliff. The lower section is cryptic and bouldery- it pays to spend some time on it and figure out the slick way of doing it that makes it fun and interesting. Trying to thug through it would probably tick the grade up a notch or two.

Also, as of today, there are now tow hooks on the anchor for future use courtesy of the ASCA.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: This was my favorite pitch on the route- and a total sandbag at the grade, if i recall. I'm glad we did the original route, although i hear the variation is quite nice as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: I miss that guy. RIP, Art.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Sport Chimney (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Quite fun, kind of surprised i hadnt gotten around to it until today- well worth it if youre at the crag and like a little trad climbing in your day!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Gimme Back My Bullets (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: Added links and tow hooks (courtesy of the ASCA) to the anchor today- the bolts had worn enough that links that used to not fit now will. Please leave these in place!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bush Pilots (5.10a R)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2013

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Comments: If anyone reads this and is planning on heading up to Brass Wall anytime soon, Bush Pilots REALLY needs new tat and rings. Say 20'-30' of 7mm cord and one or two OP rap rings should do it. The current situation up there is ghetto and pretty sketchy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Civilization Crag : Evil Empire (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Did it again today on TR at the end of the day- its substantially easier than it was when I first did it now that there is a line of jugs where there used to be micro-crimps to lay off of to make that big reach. 5.10+ at the most, I think- even if you're not tall as you can easily walk your feet up into the giant notch that is there now.

Kinda bummed that piece of rock is gone, the challenge of the micro-crimps and that huge reach made it an excellent test-piece for the crag, now I think its j... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Sunny and Steep (5.11+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: This is Steep Thrills, 5.12a. Nice shot!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 17, 2013

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Comments: you havent heard of them for good reason- they're kind of epic in comparison to the standard options (rappelling the route, using the BO descent). Folks who are comfortable with Red Rock and its quirks may not find them to be that bad, but people who dont live here or frequent here often can easily find themselves hosed on these descents.

as for the anchors- i would not expect them to be any more than crappy old tat and old smc rings at best, as these descents are not used 1/10th as often as th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caustic Cock (5.11b) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: That guys not a climber. He's just faking you out with that heel hook while smiling.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Varnishing Point (5.8+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: I seem to recall the route going up to the climbers left in the slick dihedral- how is the climbing out right?

One note for those who are pushing the grade- linking these pitches is probably not a good idea, as if you blew the crux, the rope stretch could deposit you onto a ledge below.


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