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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 234
Total Points: 2,338
Last Year: 240
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










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All 4543 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 878 | Posts 1602 | Stars 1091 | Ratings 826
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Kigijiushi (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: another awkward, weird rock climb on this wall. i guess if you like slopey, insecure, cryptic climbing it could be fun....

that said, i would recommend stick clipping the first bolt from the ramp- the first move is a bit dicey.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Dark Don't Lie (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: with the hot weather, i found this route to be substantially harder than its neighbor, and quite a sandbag for .11a. That said, i found the climbing to be very awkward, cryptic, and frankly, not much fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : The Mutation (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was more cryptic and a bit tougher than Rug Munchers, and just as much fun. Get on it!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Charlotte's Web (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: agreed on the spaced bolting- probably be solid at the grade, especially if this is your first climb in the area. I found it very engaging for 5.9- it had my attention the whole way.

i linked pitches- 15 draws plus anchor kit is what you'll want. its probably 50m from the base to the top of the 2nd pitch (not the 37 the book says)- a long, enjoyable pitch if you link them.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Rug Munchers (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: one of the best sport climbs i've done anywhere. get on it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : No Name Road (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: There is a pretty good sized and very active Wasps Nest on this route (or maybe one right next to it) about 50' up. Would not recommend climbing on this section of wall until it goes away...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pleasant Pheasant (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: quite good- felt in line with 5.11a just about everywhere else i've climbed. well worth the hike.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : 3 or 4 Times a Night (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: It should be noted that the first bolt on this is dangerously high- at least 20' up. While the climbing is easy- someone at their limit would be wise to have a stronger partner hang the first draw and clip the rope.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Typical Squamish (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: fun route. definitely not 5.11a, though- even if you're short. a bit of patience at the obvious crux and things work out.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Very good climb- I thought the first pitch was easier than Exasperator by quite a bit- shorter crux, jug to jug with one small finger lock to deal with. The feet are a little harder to spot, but all in all, I found it to be about the same as the rest of the 5.10 on the route- that is, classic and very enjoyable.

For the second pitch, I traversed past the bolts and then climbed the first part of the corner to a decent stance and bomber hand sized gear. This let me see the meat of the .10c secti... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seasoned in the Sun (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: hands down one of the best 5.10s i've done anywhere- and certainly one of the top 5 in Squamish. Go and do it. You'll be glad you did.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seam of Destinty (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: protects really well with rp's and good small (finger sized) cams to pair up with them. technical and a little bold feeling, but your waist is never more than 3' above good gear. a gem, to be sure.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Genesis (5.10a PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: this route is actually really well protected- but does require you to be slightly above your gear (your feet are about 6"-12" above your last piece when you can place after the crux)- however, the climbing eases significantly immediately after your waist passes your gear.

very good, dont be put off by the pg13 rating if you're climbing the grade. small nuts are good for this- esp offset brass.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Brunser Area
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: This area has recently seen some massive clear cutting. Also, only the .10a on the far left has a rappel anchor, so be prepared to build your own on the rest of the routes. Kind of a shame, but this cliff really isn't that great of a place to hangout anymore...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Hairpin (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: quite good- the bolted variation was fun until the top where it got hard. pretty easy to skip it by standing in a short sling if you're a weaksauce slab climber like me. one partner called it .10c, the other called it .11a. you decide. all the bolts are good.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : In the Firing Line (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: I was glad to have a rack to #2 camalot, and a second #1 would have been even nicer. Not sure why the book neglects to mention this- its obvious from the base.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: doubtful, as the ice up there would never come in for more than a day or so. i'd doubt there would ever be flows up there thick enough to climb. there are, however, some potential flows in Oak Creek that the rumor mill says are climbable in some years.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : L2 (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: No, its called L2 because its the second route on your left you come to as you enter the corridor. I think Bonaire is now the 4th route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip
By: John Wilder When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: The new Squamish guide says that this area is closed to climbing- is this still the case? I'm headed up this summer- this is one of my favorite routes in the Bluffs, and I'd love to get on it if access has been re-established.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b) : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: This is just about 3 years of wear- we installed these in spring of 2010. Just goes to show people still don't use their own kit when TR'ing off anchors. Thankfully these are cheap and easy to replace.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: thats a fun variation to the gully- i remember that being fairly hard compared to the tame stemming in the gully below.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Orbit (5.8+ PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: To take the edge off the start of this route, scramble up to the base of the 4th class gully and belay at that ledge. You can make the top of the first pitch as described from here (its about 58m from the base of the gully). This does require a couple of 5.easy moves (easy to short-rope your partner), but is a nice way to pitch the route out.

Really fun route. Good protection throughout (not sure where the PG13 part is on this), and clean falls at the cruxes (a rarity on 5.8!). I'd highly recom... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Orbit (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: You can step directly left here below the last piece of pro in this photo to avoid that spooky looking section. Probably the same grade- 5.9ish, but more secure, imho.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Hobo Gulch : Hobophobic (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I'd recommend a #1 camalot for the cam.

This whole crag is still pretty dirty- but the climbing is pretty good. Hopefully traffic will help this place clean up!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Logan's Run (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This route was the most difficult to find of the trip. Left and down of Wings of Desire (the route you probably came to do) is a shady flat spot with obvious blocky climbing above. There are bolts all over this wall- and Logan's is hidden among them.

To find Logan's, walk a bit left until you can see an obvious right leaning crack- this is Bella's Run. Immediately right of this is another bolted line (not in the book) with fat Fixe hangers- this is a new route, 5.11-ish. Just right of that wit... more >>


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