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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 229
Total Points: 2,332
Last Year: 276
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4468 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 872 | Posts 1568 | Stars 1074 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : 3 or 4 Times a Night (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: It should be noted that the first bolt on this is dangerously high- at least 20' up. While the climbing is easy- someone at their limit would be wise to have a stronger partner hang the first draw and clip the rope.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Typical Squamish (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: fun route. definitely not 5.11a, though- even if you're short. a bit of patience at the obvious crux and things work out.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Very good climb- I thought the first pitch was easier than Exasperator by quite a bit- shorter crux, jug to jug with one small finger lock to deal with. The feet are a little harder to spot, but all in all, I found it to be about the same as the rest of the 5.10 on the route- that is, classic and very enjoyable.

For the second pitch, I traversed past the bolts and then climbed the first part of the corner to a decent stance and bomber hand sized gear. This let me see the meat of the .10c secti... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seasoned in the Sun (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: hands down one of the best 5.10s i've done anywhere- and certainly one of the top 5 in Squamish. Go and do it. You'll be glad you did.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seam of Destinty (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 21, 2013

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Comments: protects really well with rp's and good small (finger sized) cams to pair up with them. technical and a little bold feeling, but your waist is never more than 3' above good gear. a gem, to be sure.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Genesis (5.10a PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: this route is actually really well protected- but does require you to be slightly above your gear (your feet are about 6"-12" above your last piece when you can place after the crux)- however, the climbing eases significantly immediately after your waist passes your gear.

very good, dont be put off by the pg13 rating if you're climbing the grade. small nuts are good for this- esp offset brass.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Brunser Area
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: This area has recently seen some massive clear cutting. Also, only the .10a on the far left has a rappel anchor, so be prepared to build your own on the rest of the routes. Kind of a shame, but this cliff really isn't that great of a place to hangout anymore...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Hairpin (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: quite good- the bolted variation was fun until the top where it got hard. pretty easy to skip it by standing in a short sling if you're a weaksauce slab climber like me. one partner called it .10c, the other called it .11a. you decide. all the bolts are good.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : In the Firing Line (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: I was glad to have a rack to #2 camalot, and a second #1 would have been even nicer. Not sure why the book neglects to mention this- its obvious from the base.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: doubtful, as the ice up there would never come in for more than a day or so. i'd doubt there would ever be flows up there thick enough to climb. there are, however, some potential flows in Oak Creek that the rumor mill says are climbable in some years.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : L2 (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: No, its called L2 because its the second route on your left you come to as you enter the corridor. I think Bonaire is now the 4th route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Zip
By: John Wilder When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: The new Squamish guide says that this area is closed to climbing- is this still the case? I'm headed up this summer- this is one of my favorite routes in the Bluffs, and I'd love to get on it if access has been re-established.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Baseboy (Bolted Variation) (5.11b) : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: This is just about 3 years of wear- we installed these in spring of 2010. Just goes to show people still don't use their own kit when TR'ing off anchors. Thankfully these are cheap and easy to replace.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: thats a fun variation to the gully- i remember that being fairly hard compared to the tame stemming in the gully below.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Orbit (5.8+ PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: To take the edge off the start of this route, scramble up to the base of the 4th class gully and belay at that ledge. You can make the top of the first pitch as described from here (its about 58m from the base of the gully). This does require a couple of 5.easy moves (easy to short-rope your partner), but is a nice way to pitch the route out.

Really fun route. Good protection throughout (not sure where the PG13 part is on this), and clean falls at the cruxes (a rarity on 5.8!). I'd highly recom... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Orbit (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: You can step directly left here below the last piece of pro in this photo to avoid that spooky looking section. Probably the same grade- 5.9ish, but more secure, imho.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Hobo Gulch : Hobophobic (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I'd recommend a #1 camalot for the cam.

This whole crag is still pretty dirty- but the climbing is pretty good. Hopefully traffic will help this place clean up!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Logan's Run (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This route was the most difficult to find of the trip. Left and down of Wings of Desire (the route you probably came to do) is a shady flat spot with obvious blocky climbing above. There are bolts all over this wall- and Logan's is hidden among them.

To find Logan's, walk a bit left until you can see an obvious right leaning crack- this is Bella's Run. Immediately right of this is another bolted line (not in the book) with fat Fixe hangers- this is a new route, 5.11-ish. Just right of that wit... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : All the Way to Pluto (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This route now shares a start with another route. Find the third route from the left side of the wall- you'll see two lines after the first bolt. Pluto is the right hand of the two lines. You'll climb left of the first three bolts before busting right and heading straight up the face.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Bottom Line (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Was told by many that this was the best 5.11a in Skaha- it did not disappoint!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Minor Skirmish (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This route has sprouted one or two new bolts in the upper corner, allowing it to be done exclusively on draws now. Really fun and worth doing for sure.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : East Face (Central)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This area is noted as The Grooves in the new Richardson Guide.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : East Face (South)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This area is noted as the Plum Wall in the new Richardson guide.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area
By: John Wilder When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: That's an interesting comment, as I have always considered many of the climbs here pretty benchmark at their grades.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood
By: John Wilder When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: As of Summer 2013, the parking area most climbers have used for the Hood has been permanently closed. Instead, please use the large new lot at the bottom of the road (about 100 yards south of the old parking area) and the new trailhead for Trail Canyon.


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