Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this thing shed a key jug as you pull onto the overhanging headwall recently- I've watched some folks do it recently and it looked way harder than I remember it being. I remember the crux being passing the first bolt and then it was cruiser jugs to the chains.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: classy. i know folks who do anchor replacement have their hearts in the right place, but come on, get some spray paint and camo your work! if you're going to do it, do it right. (for reference, Rust-o-leum Camo spray paint has three or four really excellent colors for this)
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Little Springs Crag
By: John Wilder When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I read this correctly, Chad, this area is near the gully that holds Dirty Rail. Basically, its west and a bit south from the Kraft parking lot.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Caliman Boulder : Caliman (V7)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This boulder problem has officially been closed to protect the petroglyphs nearby. See: www.mountainproject.com/v/caliman-boulder/106800767 for details.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis
By: John Wilder When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also access this wall as per Tuna and Chips by hiking towards Panty Wall, then hooking back right into a flat wash below. This is way more relaxed than the gully scramble, but quite a bit longer.
You can also avoid the 4th class scramble by continuing up the main drainage past the wall to the top, then hooking left up the slabs above, and then hooking left again into a slot, which is the top of the Oasis wall, just below Money.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis : Money (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: probably the steepest .10 in Red Rock. Super fun. Watch the run to the anchor from the last bolt...be rested and ready!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Oasis : My Thai (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hollow crimps on this thing are a little terrifying, as is the run to the 4th bolt (which involves hard-ish climbing on thin/hollow holds). Not sure why this gets stars compared to Casino.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those equipped, a single 80m works perfectly for rappel.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For reference, the double rope rap can be done with a single 70m line, although it doesnt look like it from above. Don't skip any stations and you can comfortably make it down. (A 60m will likely work as well, but require a bit of 3rd/4th class downclimbing to the bowl proper, and the pull might be a bit weird)
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : The Clod Tower (5.10c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Disciple is also in here- it bears right where the crack of Clod Tower splits above the Tiger Crack. The looming overhang just above the split is the crux of the route...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Adventure Guppies (5.8-)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route is definitely harder than 5.7- I'd be inclined to rate it 5.9, if only to keep 5.8 climbers from decking before they can clip the high second bolt. (and I've climbed plenty of all three grades in Red Rock...including the Friar, the 1st pitch of which is easier than this thing.)
I think the first pitch is worthwhile if you're in the area- its a decent warmup to the two .10s nearby. The upper pitch is probably not worth doing- the rock is very poor and the rope stretch would mean that ... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Splitting Hares (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch on this route is a true gem! Such fun climbing, good holds, well protected...couldnt ask for more!
Well done, Fran. My compliments!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An absolute gem of a route, Dan- my compliments!
Strong leaders can do this with fewer draws than there are bolts- it's easy to backclean and skip bolts and still have it feel safe. We did it in two pitches with 10 draws and it was casual.
Super fun, thanks for the newer bolted anchor, it makes the setup for the walk off casual. Definitely don't rappel this thing, it'll eat you ropes alive. The walk off is relaxed and a nice end to the day.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: its a few moves of 5.9 just before the obvious flake about 15'-20' off the starting ledge. once you gain the flake, you get good pro. if you bring a hook and a bit of duct tape, it would protect it.
the fall wouldnt kill you, but it'd be gnarly- you'd fall past the start ledge into the brush below.
that said, anyone strong enough to get on this route should be able to deal with the first 20' of this climb.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @Nelson- I use a single rack on the route, you don't need any gear for the anchor (a 60m will reach the tree barely, but a 70m will comfortable). If you're onsighting, doubling up to 2" isn't a bad idea, but in reality, there's just not that much gear to be had on the pitch. What gear you get is quite good, and its all where it need to be.
If you dont want to do the upper portion of the route, you can traverse off right after the face climbing above the bolt- take a couple of big pieces and you... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For future reference, the anchor should be in the roof crack above the belayer, not behind the big hanging block of sandstone that isn't all that big or all that secure.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be the variation- the standard route stays in the crack on the right. That squeeze chimney is one of my favorite pitches in the park!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The nice crack to the climbers right is where you really want to be in this section, although the chimney works too...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Burnout Boulder : Jones'n (V4+)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing claimed my friends ankle during the topout part- very sketch. A good spotter and pads are mandatory, imho.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Checked today and confirmed you can do the double rope descent with a single line- even a 60m (which would be close, but you can 4th class off left easily).
I did it with a 70m line, so take that under advisement, but the 70m was casual, and it was about 12-15' longer than I needed for the rap.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reason #1 Josh Janes is either a true badass or a total lunatic- he leads .12b on ring bolts! Sketch, dude!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: John Wilder When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mostafa- that was Guildenstern, a 1 pitch 5.5 on the far right of the Hamlet. Not multipitch, however, you may want to belay the traverse to the anchor at the base of the pitch, as its a bit exposed.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Nowhere Man (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry DeAngelo and I did this pitch years ago- an...interesting pitch. I was quite glad to discover that bolted anchor in the back, as continuing upward seemed improbable...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Folks, this thing REALLY needs steel carabiners on the permadraws. If anyone is feeling generous before I remember to do it, DRS sells 'em. The current crop have been on for less than a year and they're already burning through...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Crispy Critters (5.7 R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: They're both to the right of Lazy Fireman- you top out on them both and walk left to the Lazy Fireman anchors and rappel.
Those two cracks to the right of Straight Shooter are...nothing anyone has named. They're 5.easy and generally where you bail out if Sidewinder is too hard.
|
RSS Feed
