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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,328
Last Year: 305
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4434 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 868 | Posts 1538 | Stars 1074 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: this is the top of pitch 4 (by the book). just before the traverse around the corner. the beautiful face and arete above is Rabbits Arete, a burly 10d.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Minstrel in the Gallery (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: fantastic route, definitely harder than the Prophet and Tour De Pump. stays with you the whole way, but if you can make it to the one big jug on the route and get some back, you can probably clip the chains.

This route lost a key hold in recent years- ticking up the difficulty of the route off the ledge to .12b. Add the tough start of equal difficulty, and this route stays with you the whole way. I'd say this is .12b/c if you're tall, if you're short, it's solid .12c as you cannot avoid the he... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: What a fun romp up this wall- I think that while a #5 is nice to have, its not strictly necessary- there are some decent pockets on the right wall for the 5.6 roof that eliminate the need for this piece. Maybe some tricams or a second #1 or .75 C4. I would, though, recommend a second #3 and the #3.5, or a second #4. Regardless, the #3.5 is nice to have.

Either way, thanks to the FA- this is definitely a great climb and probably better overall than Armatron, a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Mall : Dirty Little Girl (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: quite good, if a little crispy up high.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Sorry, Tyson, but you absolutely implied he did- if you didnt intend to, that's fine, but it reads like you assume that he did it. Just clarifying for the record.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Tyson, Phil didn't deface the memorial. it's been that way for years and years. I think the scratches appeared within months of the engraving.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: there's a hold just like that in Chek too- neat feature for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : A Song & A Prayer (5.10a R)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: The most heads up part of this route comes as you tackle the headwall next to and above the roof. The start of the 5th pitch is definitely DFU terrain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : The Prophet (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: This route has 9 bolts, but its ideal to either skip, stick clip, or back clean the first bolt to keep the drag down.

edit:

upon further reflection I think that this is 5.12a if you avoid the obvious boulder problem on the face above the start by going left (which most do), but it's every inch of its 4 stars and absolutely worth the slog up the hill!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Paralyzed (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Tricky, but well protected crux down low, followed by enjoyable 5.10ish climbing to the anchor. Keep some gas in the tank for a mini-crux up high, though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: nice work, a proud lead to be sure!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : SALT (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: This route has gotten harder since the FA- looks like a pretty crucial hold snapped off. I had to pull through down low, and eventually bailed higher up (free biner for someone!). Not sure of the grade now- probably 5.11 something.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : Intercontinental Breakfast (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: Good route- still a bit crunchy. Nicely exposed, and a good warmup for Strategic Arms. While it is currently not too bad (mid 5.11), I suspect that time and wear on this route will bring it up to the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon
By: John Wilder When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Black Velvet is still open during the shutdown as it is not part of the loop road. All off loop areas are open to vehicle access. On loop areas are accessible via trails as well.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Broad Border (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: a very nice climb that climbs decent rock through a path that barely avoids bad rock. get off route a little and you'll be pulling off holds for sure. well protected, stay just left of the bolts most of the way and you'll be fine.

it's probably best to belay from the ground and pass the rope up via stick clip or toss it down after climbing up to the ledge (it's a long walk up to the ledge).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Behavior Issues (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: agreed, second pitch is probably 5.9+/5.10-, but it might get harder below the crux as it's a bit crispy.

the first pitch is quite good, definitely harder than the second and more sustained as well. worth doing for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: Returned to this climb today quite a few years after I first did it with Larry, and I still think that this route is pretty darn awesome. The second pitch has significantly changed character since the first ascent- it was pretty crispy on the edges of the crack when I first did it, making the jams secure (albeit a bit painful). Now, the crack is smooth and devoid of edges around it, making the moves a bit harder (5.9, I think).

The rest of the route has cleaned up nicely- only a couple of spots... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Atman (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I would say the #3 is mandatory, as if you blew the top out and the last piece was a #2, you'd more than likely hit the ground- the route is only 30' tall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: thanks dude, thats great to hear. from the look of it and knowing its the 3rd bolt, i'd drop that bolt to just below that break- keeps the clip chill and will keep the leader off the deck.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Her expression says....5.happy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Jon- have a look at the 'Almost through the crux' picture- the bolt end carabiner looks like its being loaded over an edge on the rock. if that's the case, the carabiner can easily snap if loaded. if that's how its positioned, the bolt should be moved up an inch or two to ensure that the bolt end carabiner is not loaded over an edge while it protects the crux moves.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Banshee (5.11c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: I remember laughing my way up the last 30' of that route- so good!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: damn, thats some sketchy stuff right there. one more reason to take the other approach!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Really good route- at least the first three are worthy. The fourth is obviously not worth doing- even from the ground.

The top of P1 is probably not the best belay- better to belay down on the ledge below rather than have that weird traverse to start the pitch. Which actually means you dont need to use that anchor at all, as you can just touch the ground from the top of 2 (its 200' plum line, although its probably 240' of climbing).

Pitch 2 was super fun- and very long (180' or so), lots of d... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: nice work kid- good to see you getting after it!


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