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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 550
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All (4277) | Routes (114) | Areas (10) | Photos (11) | Comments (853) | Posts (1451) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (794)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Atman (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I would say the #3 is mandatory, as if you blew the top out and the last piece was a #2, you'd more than likely hit the ground- the route is only 30' tall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: thanks dude, thats great to hear. from the look of it and knowing its the 3rd bolt, i'd drop that bolt to just below that break- keeps the clip chill and will keep the leader off the deck.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Her expression says....5.happy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Moon Where the Wind Blows (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Jon- have a look at the 'Almost through the crux' picture- the bolt end carabiner looks like its being loaded over an edge on the rock. if that's the case, the carabiner can easily snap if loaded. if that's how its positioned, the bolt should be moved up an inch or two to ensure that the bolt end carabiner is not loaded over an edge while it protects the crux moves.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Banshee (5.11c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: I remember laughing my way up the last 30' of that route- so good!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: damn, thats some sketchy stuff right there. one more reason to take the other approach!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Amber (5.10)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Really good route- at least the first three are worthy. The fourth is obviously not worth doing- even from the ground.

The top of P1 is probably not the best belay- better to belay down on the ledge below rather than have that weird traverse to start the pitch. Which actually means you dont need to use that anchor at all, as you can just touch the ground from the top of 2 (its 200' plum line, although its probably 240' of climbing).

Pitch 2 was super fun- and very long (180' or so), lots of d... more >>


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 13, 2013

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Comments: nice work kid- good to see you getting after it!


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Ice House : Powderhouse (5.10b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: Well worth climbing, and if you want a bit more of a warm-up, there is a two bolt, 5.11ish extension that goes up and right around the corner to another lower-off.

There are two more bolts above that lead to a third lower-off that looks much harder.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Eggs Anyone (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: avoid this thing like the plague- loose rock, no holds, awkward climbing, and the bolt at the crux is guaranteed to break your carabiner if you whip on it- some doofus put it in a pocket, which will lever any carabiner over an edge.

not worth climbing, imho.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Black Stripper (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: definitely stick clip the 2nd bolt- the first 15-20' of this route isnt the most inspiring rock out there. Crux comes about half way up.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Dr. Goodkind (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: The bottom is a bit sandy, otherwise the route is very solid and good to go, imho. The entire route is pretty sweet- assuming I climbed the correct route (up the white streak). I found the bottom to be not to bad- about V3 or so, for me the crux came at the 4th or 5th bolt. Either way, fun and a perfect step up from Looking for Yesterday.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Looking for Yesterday (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Super fun, classic Maple cobble pulling to two distinct cruxes. Both of which are pretty tame by maple standards- this one got dropped a letter grade in the new book, and thats probably accurate. Regardless, its a super fun route and should definitely be on everyone's ticklist!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Ixtlan (5.11c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: This picture is deceiving- the climber is probably 20-30' above the belayer.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : GM Route (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: While I do appreciate the re-bolting effort on this route, it would have been nice to see the old bolts chopped rather than leaving them in place right next to the new, good ones.

For locals, someone ought to take a breaker bar and some epoxy up that route when they think of it and chop the old studs and patch the holes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Perspective (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Be mindful of the large underground beehive near the base of this route- the entrance is located in the base of the rotten tree stump among the boulders at the base. They are not aggressive, but no sense in pissing them off!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Be mindful of the large underground beehive near the base of this route- the entrance is located in the base of the rotten tree stump among the boulders at the base. They are not aggressive, but no sense in pissing them off!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Claim Jumper (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: a really fun route- suits the strong face climber. spicy, i thought- make sure to be solid and do not assume the pin will hold a fall. good gear where it matters.

I took a rack to a green camalot, doubled up on most of it and was pretty happy. no stoppers, although you could certainly place a few if you wanted to.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: a Trango Cinch.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Elastic Man (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: I climbed straight up on Elastic Man, as Pheasant traverses left into that route- I didnt see any opportunity to climb left- but the moves were very demanding and had my full attention, and it seemed like the obvious line at the time.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Creepy Crawlers (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: A much better climb than its neighbor, marred only by the high consequence fall if you blow it going to the bolt after the one with the chain on it. The moves arent too hard, but insecure and a bit bold. The crux is higher.

Fun climb, though- well worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Geritol (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: a #4 camalot in the first horizontal protects it nicely. hard for the grade, i thought- with big air if you blow the final crux move.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Kigijiushi (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: another awkward, weird rock climb on this wall. i guess if you like slopey, insecure, cryptic climbing it could be fun....

that said, i would recommend stick clipping the first bolt from the ramp- the first move is a bit dicey.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : Dark Don't Lie (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: with the hot weather, i found this route to be substantially harder than its neighbor, and quite a sandbag for .11a. That said, i found the climbing to be very awkward, cryptic, and frankly, not much fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Sea to Sky Corridor : ... : The Mutation (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I thought this route was more cryptic and a bit tougher than Rug Munchers, and just as much fun. Get on it!


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