Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Healy's Haunted House (5.7 X) : Photo (Copy)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the straight up variation, I think, and dont remember it being too bad- but then we were racing the clock and weren't really paying attention...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : September Knights (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even a 100' route is safe to rappel with a 60m line- a 60m line is always cut long when its new (they range between 62m and 65m), and it shrinks with age. Even a true 60m will only be short of the ground by about 18" on a 100' route. You'll be fine.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its probably a toss-up between descending via the Chicken Lips descent (see that info on the Upper Painted Bowl page) and rappelling the route. You can get back to the last anchor, but its kind of exposed 4th class to do so. My partner topped out to check the view while I waited at the last anchor (I had been to the summit before) and then I belayed him back and we rapped down.
The last bolted anchor is at the top of the technical climbing- to top out, you 4th class up about 100'-150' to the to... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : The Last Drag (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun- delicate and engaging the entire way, but very safe. A stick clip for the first bolt may be advisable, as the opening move is a committing step over on less than inspiring rock.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : Angled Dangler (5.11c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with a devious crux- probably would feel .12a or harder on an onsight attempt. Working the route brings it down to hard .11, imho.
While the falls aren't terrible, the last two pro bolts on this route are poorly placed for clipping-both should be down (slightly) and right from their current placements.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the best way to do this pitch is to link it with the pitch below to keep the fall factor low and the catch soft if you blow it.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.9) (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having done this variation dozens of times over the years, I dont think I could bring myself to call this 5.9. Its 5.10a, imho- especially in Red Rock.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : Pine Tree Ledge : Heating Up the Hood (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: fyi- as of summer 2012, all the bolts have chain draws, and the anchor is two carabiners- no draws needed.
super fun route, little pumpy, little techy for a moment or two, pretty easy at the grade at Charleston. Well worth doing.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always thought Brew was 5.9 throughout. Looked spicy all the way up, regardless. Nice job!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good route- did this with Sasquatch as our 2nd pitch, about as classic as it gets.
One note- Linking 4 and 5 keeps the FF2 potential down- a good idea if slab isnt your thing, as the moves off the last bolted belay are cruxy and insecure if you're not a slab climber.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why? The rope is on the ground.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Sesame Street
By: John Wilder When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: More info on how to find this area and where each route is would be much appreciated.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Walla Walla Wash : Just the Tip (5.10b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: we are aware of that- hopefully we'll get to it shortly.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please do NOT pass your ropes around trees to rappel- its very bad for the tree and your rope.
In this particular case, given that the rappel avoids a 20' section of 3rd class, its not even necessary to rappel.
If you must rap, sacrifice a sling. Thanks.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure I'd make a judgement on George and Joanne's style on this route (or any other of theirs, for that matter). If you hate the style of this route, climb its neighbor- Rock Warrior. Same climb, different style. You make the call on which is better. Personally, I think both have their place.
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : 49 (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this route was technically easier than Zoaster, but perhaps a little more thuggy.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Bubblicious (5.11d) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're probably right about Bubblicious, but the anchor for the .10a used to just be a pro bolt, the original anchor is up high (I think it may have been shared with Los Banditos...) Someone made an anchor out of a pro bolt on that little stance so that the funky 5.11 on the original line would be avoided. Bubbilicious went in well after that .10a thing did.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Cling Free (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having been on this several times, including recently- this thing is at least .12a/b, probably .12b. I hear tale that if you are shorter, the bottom section is significantly easier (i believe this given how scrunched up i was)- but its a HARD route. Far harder than every other .12a i've done or gotten on in the park.
Also, bring a long stick clip (12') to stick clip the second bolt- clipping it mid-crux is very difficult.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost
By: John Wilder When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbers should be aware that fixed draws are only on the EXTENSIONS for the most part at the Roost these days. The harder stuff (America's Most Wanted, etc) still have chains/project draws, but the .11s are clip your own now.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Bubblicious (5.11d) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interestingly, the .10a/.11d in this picture end at an anchor that was added to avoid a rather nasty 5.11 crux just above it. The original anchors for those lines are about 15' up and left.
|
Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Highway Man (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route no longer has fixed draws. Start to the left of the cave below an obvious ledge system. Climb up to the ledge past a pair of bolts (clip the right hand bolt), and then climb the middle line above you.
|
Location: WA : Gold Bar Boulders
By: John Wilder When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: nwgranite.blogspot.com/2012/05/gold-bar-vehicle-access-revok>>>
heads up!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trick to avoiding the drag if you link the pitches is more or less soloing up to near the top of the crack on the last pitch. Keeps the rope drag down. Most folks who are climbing Cat, though, aren't going to be up to this.
Double ropes are, of course, another good option.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : The Reign of Swain (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was contrived and not much fun. The crux roof pull is the hardest (and least obvious) of three ways through the roof, but it is the only one that is safe.
If you're going to do this route, make sure you like credit card crimpers- thats the name of the game here.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : High Class Ho (5.10a/b)
By: John Wilder When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take some small stoppers for this thing- you'll want them for sure. Really good climbing- very engaging the entire way with a heady pull at the bulge.
|
RSS Feed
