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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 227
Total Points: 2,329
Last Year: 291
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4445 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 869 | Posts 1548 | Stars 1074 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: This is not Group Therapy. That start of GT is not visible in this picture.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The down climbing on the descent is barely 4th class- rappelling on this descent is not necessary at all. (The non-rappel descent is up and over a small rock formation from the rappel station- its usually well marked with cairns)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014 the ASCA replaced all 5 protection bolts and the anchors of this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Moments to Memories (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014, the ASCA replaced all 4 protection bolts and anchor bolts on this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Satellite Wall : Supernova (5.12)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: A quiet gem- well worth getting on if you're in the area.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Thought this was quite good- forgot I had done it. If you have the moves dialed, it will feel pretty relaxed, but onsighting can be tricky. I think 5.11a is fair for this route, although its a good bit easier than the '5.11a' two routes to the right!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Interesting route- a hard (and reachy) crimp crux down low (getting to the 3rd bolt) and then a deceptive bouldery crux up higher with the bolt at your feet makes this thing feel pretty hard for the grade.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : The Corrosion Cave : Across the Universe (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: fun, but a pain to clean. especially if none of your partners want to do it, so you have to do it twice!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: This cliff has just seen a complete refit of its hardware. Every sport route at the cliff has been updated with Stainless Glue-in Climb Tech Wave bolts with links and mussys at all anchors. Huge thanks to the ASCA for donating all of the bolts and equipment that made this project possible. Also many thanks to those who donated their time and energy to coming out and assisting with this huge project.

If you come out to this cliff and enjoy the routes, please consider making a donation to the co... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor
By: John Wilder When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: There are two routes between the Cel and Bonaire. They are currently named L2 and L3 and can be found in the route list on this page.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Sea of Troubles (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: I've been on it since and it has cleaned up. The chain is there to prevent the draw from crossloading over an edge and to make the crux bolt easier to clip. The bolt isnt lower due to placement options, if i recall correctly. Definitely not an ideal solution, but it works well enough.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking line- looks like the boys that put up Celtic Cracks used the first pitch of Jet Stream to access their route as well. I dig that wall- such a great wall for inspiring lines that look like they'll protect well naturally and without bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Only if you skip the 3 or 4 good nut placements on the way, including the one a bit below your feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Hey! I know that guy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Easily the best 5.10 sport pitch in Red Rock. Didn't see any glue mess, all the holds were quite good (except maybe one or two)- both in quality and incut. 30m of pure face climbing bliss. Well worth doing and a great warm-up for the harder stuff at Stratocaster.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic route- second only to Yaak Crack in quality for a 5.11 at the Gallery. Solid work on the glue-ins, as this would have been an exciting lead with bad bolts. Rock quality was good to great for the entire route, although the crispiness around the route keeps your attention.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Gimme Back My Bullets (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: A great climb, but a good bit tougher than its neighbor of the same grade. Not as hard as Tour, though- right in between. Figuring out the crux was a challenge, and keeping it together at the end was definitely the redpoint crux. Worth doing for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders Main : Donkey Punch (V4)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Not surprised given the rumors of boulderers out climbing less than 12 hours after one of the biggest rains of the year last week. I wonder what else was damaged.

Talked to a friend who has sent it post-break. Sounds like V5/6 for sure now.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Sport Climbing is Neither (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: On 12/5/13, the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route with 1/2" x 4.5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with quicklinks for rappel.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: Word on the street is that this route is currently missing an anchor bolt- there may be a but or some type of backup to the other bolt, but don't count on it. I'll try to get up there and replace the bolt soon.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Disappearing Buttress : Prime Rib (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Good, not great climbing. Fairly run out- although if you had a double set of small cams it would feel better- we didnt have anything smaller than fingers and I wished I did for most of the day. A set of rp's or other micronuts would also be nice in a few spots.

Rock was pretty good for the most part- nothing broke on us, although some spots on the route had that...'please don't break' feeling...

All in all, a nice day out. Definitely 5.7 for the 5.9 and up leader, though. Not a beginner rout... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Those are listed at the 'J' Wall in the First Pullout section. They really should be part of the Hamlet section, but someone thought otherwise.


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