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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Big Horn (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best way to rappel is to rappel from the new anchor at the top of the Big Horn crack down to the ledge at the base of the crack with one rope. From there, scramble over to the Birdland anchors and rappel that route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag : KGB (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really good route, my favorite at the wall so far. I'd recommend taping your right ankle for the start- its a bit sharp.
Total endurance fest, probably low in the grade, but i'll take it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Gridlock (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its a good idea to clip the 3rd bolt off the crimps to avoid the scary fall- which is safe if you have the bolt clipped.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Black Widow Hollow (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It doesnt take a full 70m to do it, but if you go from the top of the first pitch (at the nice tree ledge like 20m up or something) to the next big ledge (skipping the sloping ledge belay), its about 69m, give or take. I barely had enough rope to put my partner on belay, as I recall.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg Barnes replaced the pro bolt on Our Father in 2004, I think- I know because I talked with him about it. It should not have needed any bolt replacement done. All of those bolts are retro, dude.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like this thing has sprouted new bolts on the 2nd pitch. I only remember one bolt on it, and thats the one that the ASCA had replaced years ago (there were two originally). The second time I climbed it, I think there was also one, MAYBE two bolts. Sounds like there's 4 up there now, which would significantly ease the stress level on that pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started Sunset Slabs to the right of Rising Moons, but I suppose you could start it there and it would feel about the same. I never cared for Rising Moons, though- awkward and weird, imho.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done this one dozens of times over the years with beta that always felt .11c, watched my friend do it today, and after trying his beta, it felt .11a-ish at the lower crux. The upper wall keeps the grade at about .11b.
This route and Sister of Pain are easily the best routes on the wall.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: SS Gully starts on the right, but quickly moves left after the first two pitches- be careful not to drift right or ride the right side all the way up, lest you wander into fairly strenuous 5.9/5.10 climbing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Plumber's Crack : Plumber's Crack (V2 R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, that has to be insanely scary. It never occurred to me that liebacking this problem was ever an option. Which is probably why I always called it 5.10 rather than V3...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area
By: John Wilder When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route immediately right of Choad is .12b, I think. The one immediately right of Marshall Amp is 5.11c, and the one that branches far left off of Stratocaster Direct is a .12b (i think its mellow after the Strat start, though).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Rad Cliff : Get Rad (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha, Larry DeAngelo had been wanting to do that for years. We weren't sure if it would go and be fully gnarly or be a hike. Sounds like it wasnt too bad- nice job!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always thought Handren has that pitch stopping there because that bolted rap anchor is somewhat new- guess he pulled that info from Joanne's book. I first climbed it on Swain's beta and the top of 1 is above the triangle feature. And no, the top of the first pitch is 195' from the ground, that ledge is only 45' or so up, which is why I never considered it a belay.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That station at the base of that feature was never meant to be a belay- its the final rap anchor. The top of P1 is about 150' above the climber.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall : On to the Next One (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite good, although I'd highly recommend either stick clipping the second bolt or being really bold- if you blow the move onto the slab, i'm pretty sure you'd deck. Its not bad, maybe low .10, but spooky. I clipped the old SMC bolt, made the move, then clipped the second bolt, and back cleaned the old bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Keep Your Powder Dry (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5th bolt on this route needs to be replaced. Its a stud bolt and had become loose as of today- I tightened it down, but a glue-in replacement would be ideal.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Stadium : Indecision (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a stick clip is a good idea if you want to lead this. there's an iffy cam placement below the bolt, but the rock is spooky and the landing would be horrible.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Stadium : ED (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: funky route with a funky anchor position. watch the pull.
used gear from fingers to thin hands, double set and a small stopper or two.
hard for 5.7.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Ruby Slippers (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI- The left-hand anchor bolt on this route is BAD. Old SMC hanger on the most rusted 3/8" stud bolt I've seen in the Red. The right hand anchor bolt is brand-new, so thats comforting.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Whiteout (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: a single 70m makes it to the ground easily from the upper anchors- we rapped off right, i suspect a single 60m would get you very close, if not down all the way. worth checking, as the bolts at the top of the first pitch are in a terrible location for the pull.
also, the gods of re-bolting in the red should consider replacing the Metolius Rap hangers on this route with real hardware, and moving the first pitch anchors up about 6'.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Air Ride Equipped (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those curious, you need 4 draws for this route- two for the first two bolts, two for the anchor. the rest have climb tech perma-draws, making this route very easy to clean if the leader back-cleans the second bolt after clipping the 3rd.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Creep Show (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original first bolt on this route is missing- I would consider a stick clip nearly mandatory on this route, the current first bolt is probably 25' off the ground guarded by some 5.10d climbing.
That said, a phenomenal route that stays with you the entire length of the climb- no free rides on this one- a must do!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Twinkie (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route- pita to clean, though. For those who havent been here in awhile, the chain draws are long gone, meaning cleaning shenanigans are required.
No sit down rest on this thing, but a decent one awaits you at the upper break if you're clever.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Hip to the Jive (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Hip to the Jive.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Wonkaholic (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Wonkaholic. Super fun climbing!
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